Going to buy a 1911 please give me your input

[JGRuby]

Ruby look for 10-8's many posts on topic, as well as a simple search.

I and many of friends own them - so far no problems - really dont need any other details - they work and work well.

I will still stick with Kimber and feel that you guys have not provided sufficent evidence to the contrary.

James Ruby

 

[Cougfan2]

One thing I think is over looked when a 1911 is bought is to buy good magazines, not the 8.99 specials.

This is good advice. Most feeding problems that I have had with ANY semi auto, not just 1911's, could be traced to the magazines. Not that cheap mags can't be reliable, they just seem to be inconsistent. You might have one that works like a champ and a second one of the same brand might not function reliably. I've used several different 1911 mags, but have had really good luck with the Chip McCormick PowerMags.

 

[1stIDFMP]

I have 2 Kimbers and love them. With that said, with your needs/requirements, I'd go with the Ruger SR1911. If Ruger would have made one years ago, I'd have one, but with the Kimbers (which have never failed/broken/etc.....) - it's hard for me to justify buying a 3rd 1911 (I know, that's blasphemy, to some people).

 

[sheepman]

There are some brands that I am biased against, but others like them. Colt, Springfield, Kimber, S&W, and Sig are recognized as quality (and what I would recommend). RIA has a good reputation as a budget gun, the one I had need a little tuning (extractor and slid stop) but other wise was good. A lot depends on what you want to use the gun for, HD, Competition or just range target. A handgun is a personal thing and only you can decide what is best for you.

 

[SynapticSilence]

I have a Sig C3 that is what I've ended up with after several Rock Islands (1 great, 2 with major slide peening problems), a Para, and a Springfield. The C3 has an alloy officers frame with a stainless steel commanders slide that makes it light, accurate, and easily carried IWB. As quality as any Kimber, great customer service, and lifetime warranty for several hundred less than the equivalent Kimber.

 

[rjl11146]

I had a Kimber Ultra Carry II Crimson Trace. Keep in mide it takes 1000 rounds to break it in. I gave up at 500 because I had jams every other magazine.

 

[deann]

what do want to spend?low end ria,not a bad choice.r1,sr1911 nice guns at 575 to650. sig sauer very nice,750 to1200.colt awesome! take your pick, i own 6 1911s,love them all.dont over think it,youll do fine.

 

[wooner]

I have a S&W "E" series and a Rock Island. Love them both.

 

[lst1166]

Ill sell you a Colt 1911 Mark IV Series 80 Officers Model with many custom upgrades. I can text pics. Looking to get 750 obo or trade for something cool. Like a sweet tactical optic or
9mm/556 ammo? Let me know if interested

 

[SigLover21]

Get the para ordinance hi expert I just bought one and I love it. Nice tight groups. 535.00. At buds gun shop.

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

 

[coop44]

boy this is a huge can of worms you opened up!

everybody has their favorites, some cost a whole bunch more than others, all made to the same pattern(drawings, plans whatever), all of their parts interchange (more or less). pick one you can afford that isn't obviously a POS. have fun.

 

[RVTECH]

I have owned five 1911s (all Colt) and the best of the bunch has been 2nd to the last, a plain Jane 1991-A1. With just a few mods it is capable of sub 2" groups with 200 gr LSWC and it took about a 1000 rounds to break it in - but I am way past that. However if I had to start from scratch I would probably go with one of the Springfield variants. All the SA guns I have held feel great, are tight and seem very well made and are priced right. I am actually looking for a good used one now just to say I have one - but it had better be able to run hard cast LSWC handloads or it goes back up for sale!

 

[iamme]

Ill sell you a Colt 1911 Mark IV Series 80 Officers Model with many custom upgrades. I can text pics. Looking to get 750 obo or trade for something cool. Like a sweet tactical optic or
9mm/556 ammo? Let me know if interested

Dude classifieds are a ways down the board. Keep it out of these areas.

Get the para ordinance hi expert I just bought one and I love it. Nice tight groups. 535.00. At buds gun shop.

No offense intended, but I can't think of ANY Para model that would entice me to them rather then another company.

boy this is a huge can of worms you opened up!

everybody has their favorites, some cost a whole bunch more than others, all made to the same pattern(drawings, plans whatever), all of their parts interchange (more or less). pick one you can afford that isn't obviously a POS. have fun.

Coop- You're kinda showing your limited knowledge on 1911's. Pretty much any quality part you should not plan on just dropping in- Well grips, mags, guide rod and springs will. Most things 1911 require fitting.
Second point- So I can hand you a set of 1911 prints and you can make a frame (frame only, no slide, small parts but just the frame) that falls into spec and will not have tolerance stacking issues with ANY part on market? Damn you should tell your secret to, well every 1911 manufacturer out there. though the custom smith's making BIG $$$$ working to mate these parts properly and get them to run correctly may be mad at you!

 

[coop44]

Dude classifieds are a ways down the board. Keep it out of these areas.



No offense intended, but I can't think of ANY Para model that would entice me to them rather then another company.



Coop- You're kinda showing your limited knowledge on 1911's. Pretty much any quality part you should not plan on just dropping in- Well grips, mags, guide rod and springs will. Most things 1911 require fitting.
Second point- So I can hand you a set of 1911 prints and you can make a frame (frame only, no slide, small parts but just the frame) that falls into spec and will not have tolerance stacking issues with ANY part on market? Damn you should tell your secret to, well every 1911 manufacturer out there. though the custom smith's making BIG $$$$ working to mate these parts properly and get them to run correctly may be mad at you!

I said "(more or less)" a little minor fitting is normal. I have built a number of G.I. quality (and better) 1911's. Going back to the begining the 1911 was designed to be built on an assembly line, with interchangable field servicable components. This is what the government required, and the pistols worked just fine.

The problem is "upgrades" once one part is modified or changed it affects the relationship of the other parts, this is particularly evident in two areas, the hammer-sear-trigger and the barrel-bushing-slide-link areas.

When using parts that are not "oversize", but within standard specs, you will wind up with a gun that falls within spec for the original military specifications as far as accuracy and reliability.

When using aftermarket parts that are designed over sized to allow for close tolerance fitting that is when you will need the skills of someone who is well versed in working on the 1911.

There are a number of guns out there that fall into the GI spec category, the RIA, the basic Springfield models, to name a couple. Among the closely fitted guns are the Kimber, Colt, and the higher end Springfield guns. There are others in both categories, but I have not had a chance to take critical measurements of them.

Thanks to modern machining and production techniques, even the lower end guns are often superior in fit to the originals.

By no means is the 1911 a "custom hand fit" gun. It can be made into one for sure.

(here's the secret, the difference between a quality smith and a hack, Marketing & Salemanship. Trust me, I've sold enough "Accuracy Packages", sure they do what I tell the customer they will do and they work reliably, but I would never plow a grand into a $400 gun)

 

[BillCh]

For a starter 1911 I'd say stay away from;
1) Any barrel length other than 5 inch, Not that short barrels can't work, but there can be timing issues.
2) Shoot the ammo it was designed for. I see it all the time, people complain
a particular pistol won't shoot consistently without some FTF/FTE issue only to find out that they are using the wrong bullets or magazines, or both.
3) External extractors. They are an unnecessary complication.
4) Light weight frames. There is no good reason to start out with anything other than a steel frame.

Simple is good. Mods can always be done later on. That is a nice thing about the basic 1911 platform.

B

<SNIP
I then installed an EGW oversize stainless firing pin stop with a very slight bevel ...
<SNIP

This is a "must do" in my book.

 

[JAFO]

For a starter 1911 I'd say stay away from;
1) Any barrel length other than 5 inch, Not that short barrels can't work, but there can be timing issues.
2) Shoot the ammo it was designed for. I see it all the time, people complain
a particular pistol won't shoot consistently without some FTF/FTE issue only to find out that they are using the wrong bullets or magazines, or both.
3) External extractors. They are an unnecessary complication.
4) Light weight frames. There is no good reason to start out with anything other than a steel frame.

Simple is good. Mods can always be done later on. That is a nice thing about the basic 1911 platform.

B



This is a "must do" in my book.

I agree with avoiding external extractors on Kimbers. I haven't heard of problems with Dan Wesson or some of the other manufacturers who use external extractors. Most of the problems I've heard of with Kimbers were on models with external extractors. It is probably safer to avoid all but I'd definitely avoid Kimbers with external extractors. I've had some myself that had no problems but now I go with the odds.

Aluminum alloy framed 1911s have a much nicer weight and it's quite noticeable if you carry one all day. If you get one just make sure you don't use magazines other than the newer style with encapsulated followers. Don't use any with the old GI style followers that can damage the inside of the frame. Wilson Combat and Tripp Research make magazines with very good reputations.

Some smaller than 5" 1911s are nice for carry. I love my STI Escort for concealed carry. That would likely cost you more than $1000 unless you found a used one. They are comparable in size to a Colt Officers ACP/Defender. I also like my Kimber Pro Carry which is comparable in size to a Colt Commander.

Full size aren't bad for concealed carry but just make sure you handle some and take note of the weight if this is a concealed carry purchase. Make sure to calculate in the extra weight of a full magazine too.

 

[orygun]

For a starter 1911 I'd say stay away from;
1) Any barrel length other than 5 inch, Not that short barrels can't work, but there can be timing issues.
2) Shoot the ammo it was designed for. I see it all the time, people complain
a particular pistol won't shoot consistently without some FTF/FTE issue only to find out that they are using the wrong bullets or magazines, or both.
3) External extractors. They are an unnecessary complication.
4) Light weight frames. There is no good reason to start out with anything other than a steel frame.

Wow! Then I made a mistake buying my first 1911. It was a double stack Para Ordnance Officer's size with an aluminum frame. I guess I was too stupid to know, as was my gun. It worked like clockwork, with a the exception of the "series 80 style" firing pin safety. That gave me fits at the 1500-ish round mark. Got that fixed and never looked back. Fed any bullet I put in it.
I have a couple of keepers (Colt and Dan Wesson) but have passed several other Colts thru my hands since letting that Para go. Don't wish for any of the Colt's, but I wish I'd kept that Para. I'd eliminate the firing pin safety and that's the only change I'd make to that one.

 

[JGRuby]

I have heard alot of bad things about compact 45's so I decided after talking to many different individuals who have shot compact 1911 handguns - they said buy a RIA compact. I did and i was amazed at how reliable they have been - I picked up a used one and bought a brand new one - both with a 3.5" barrel. I started off only carrying fmj ammo and it worked with out a hitch. I now use reloaded 230 XTP's. Again no problem. Now maybe I am just lucky but it is my opinion that comapct 45's do work. It is my belief and I could certainly be wrong but the secret to a compact 45 working is that there has to mass to the slide - not a light slide or a light weigth pistol but a solid steel compact. It is true that I have only fired less than a thousand rounds through each but I am very satisfied with how the Armscorp pistols work. They are heavy but I do not mind the weight. My primary carry is a RIA compact.

I feel that these are pretty good rules to follow as has been my expereience:
1) good magaiznes - already stated above
2) Keep it clean and wet ( well lubed ) - I clean my carry gun about every three days and use a good lube - I use gunslick and outers gun oil.
3) Unless your pretty good at reloading ammunition buy store bought - dimensions are very important for cycling
4) If you are going to carry a compact 1911 - you may end up having to shoot hard ball
5) You will need to replace springs more often than on a full size - alot more often as the springs are more compressed.
6) If you do reload, test your ammunition on many different range trips
7) Ensure that what you shoot at the range is what you carry that way you know it will work and builds confidence.
8) Ensure that you have a good belt and holster for carry.

I am not an expert by any means - I feel that by following the rules above I have saved myself alot of trouble. I do not necessarily believe that compact 1911's dont work - the so called experts would tend to make you beleive that.

James Ruby

 

[iamme]

Stealing from 10-8's page today talking about some of the guns they don's see quite as often:
"It comes up frequently whether we're going to test a particular 1911. Most of the gun tests you see are actually associated with upcoming product development, and very few guns are bought strictly for testing. However, here are some thoughts on some guns that have come through our 1911 classes of late.

-Dan Wesson: Very high build quality and nice guns overall. Based on market research, thes
e are a great gun for their price point of ~$1500.
-Wilson Combat: These have always been nice guns, but two new production guns that just came through our LA class were really nice. These were ready to go. Keep in mind that Wilson has been at the top of the 1911 game for a long time for a reason, and many of the function points we harp on are part of their build checklist.
-Brown: Very high build quality and very nice guns all around.
-Remington R1 Tactical: Definitely a bargain priced gun, but it was set up acceptably and worked correctly. Most of the parts are cast and fairly roughly finished.
-Ruger 1911: In a roughly similar price bracket as the Remington R1, but superior build quality and small parts.
-Sig 1911: Good build quality for the price point, but extraction/ejection tends to be sub optimal due to the extractor design/location. Holster choices are more limited since the slide profile is unique on most of the models other than the Classic. These are growing in popularity and there is much teeth gnashing from Sig fans due to our observations, but we stand by them. We're here to serve the serious user, and there are stronger choices out there if you must have a 1911 for service use.

I'm sure there's other guns out there that have been through the classes, but these stand out."

 

[Blitzkrieg]

Have a Springfield Armory GI and love it.. added an ambi safety, Pach grips, nite sights, buffed the feed ramp a bit and added a wolff recoil spring and it's GTG. I won't have a single action without an ambi safety, BTW