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Ah yes, thee ol' headspace query.

If sticking with a 5.56 Colt, BCM, SIONICS, SOLGW and the like than headspacing is most likely unnecessary. Per TM 9-1005-319-23&P the only gauge used is a field gauge (civy equivalent BROWNELLS 5.56MM MAXIMUM HEADSPACE GAUGE | Brownells) however, that is primarily for wear not assembly, but they live up to the Colt TDP, a known standard.

The issue with .308/7.62x51 ARs is there is no standard such like the TDP as @Taco_lean mentions, so different manufacturers can and do vary in the tolerance department. Even with 5.56 ARs, the civilian market is the driving force behind the market at this point in time, not the military. Given that fact, I would check headspace to confirm things are GTG, especially if the barrel and bolt are from different manufacturers and I'll plug and play all day long with the above mentioned companies. I've seen too many shavings from chambers with 5.56 stamped on the barrel to know better.
 
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Incorrectly installed or out-of-spec LPK parts were mentioned as cause for possible OOB discharge.... my understanding is that the firing pin cannot protrude until the bolt is locked. So how does a faulty sear or disconnect lead to an OOB? A runaway, yes. Something to watch out for. But even in a mistimed gas system, how would brand new clean LPK parts be able to cause an OOB discharge????

Anybody?

I don't spend a lot of time reasearching FA because I can't afford it, but generally a run-away type event, or the gun discharging when its not supposed to can be dangerous even without an OOB.

Maybe I mispoke on the OOB risk, but if it was going to happen, it would probably be caused by bolt bounce + the hammer falling too soon.
 
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but generally a run-away type event, or the gun discharging when its not supposed to can be dangerous even without an OOB.

I won't disagree with that!!

But following the rules of safety, I never load more than one shell for the first shot of a new build. I don't load that shell til the rifle is pointed downrange I am seated and the rifle is on the front rest. I keep the rifle pointed down range until it goes bang, as well as after it goes bang. If all goes well, I then load a 5 shot mag and repeat. If that goes well, I load a 20 or 30 rd mag and continue slow fire. If that goes well... well, you get the pitcher... :D:D:D
 
I won't disagree with that!!

But following the rules of safety, I never load more than one shell for the first shot of a new build. I don't load that shell til the rifle is pointed downrange I am seated and the rifle is on the front rest. I keep the rifle pointed down range until it goes bang, as well as after it goes bang. If all goes well, I then load a 5 shot mag and repeat. If that goes well, I load a 20 or 30 rd mag and continue slow fire. If that goes well, well, you ge the pitcher... :D:D:D

You're just doing the checks I mentioned but with live ammo! Haha. I do all my checks at home so when I get to the range I just let it rip!
 
You're just doing the checks I mentioned but with live ammo! Haha. I do all my checks at home so when I get to the range I just let it rip!

That's fine for a guy that has the go/nogo gauges. I don't sweat the petty stuff, I just pet the sweaty stuff!!!

Yep, I install all the parts incorrectly, not watching what I'm doing, not double checking (where'd that damn pin spring go to anyway???) and then never check the function until I get to the range. It's especially important to not check the function of the safety. Umm hmm... :D
 
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That's fine for a guy that has the go/nogo gauges. I don't sweat the petty stuff, I just pet the sweaty stuff!!!

Yep, I install all the parts incorrectly, not watching what I'm doing, not double checking (where'd that damn pin spring go to anyway???) and then never check the function until I get to the range. It's especially important to not check the function of the safety. Umm hmm... :D


Sounds like a plan man!
 
Take a round, put a single piece of masking tape on the primer side of the round. Trim it to the back of the case. Insert round in chamber. Ride bolt forward. If it closes OK without pushing it then go buy a no go gauge. If it doesnt close without force dont worry about it.
 
i bought some inexpensive Anderson lowers and bought either a Spikes Tactical or BCM lower parts kit. I typically bought a BCM PNT FCG and bought some Troy fully assembled upper and the put a BCM bolt in.

I did watch some videos and printed out all of the steps to build a lower receiver. My last build was a complete lower and upper receiver from Aero. I watched a few videos on how to build the upper receiver too.

I never took my AR to a gun smith but that was just me. The worst part was putting the trigger spring in backwards. I watched the video several times to be sure my trigger spring was put in correctly.
 
I had an m2 FTE, then close the bolt on another round amd had it go off oob, and I'm still alive. Jist keep your hands behind the magwell the first time you pull the trigger.
 

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