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I got a stripped lower that I put all the parts on, then bought a complete upper from Aero that I just pinned on, threw a bolt in and charging handle so am I good to go? Or should I have a smith check anything first? Just trying to make sure this thing doesn't blow up in my face. It's a pretty much all Aero M5e1 build. Thanks!
 
The biggest thing is checking headspace. A decent smith can do this or you can buy the gauges yourself. Given the money involved in an AR10 build, and the fact it is less standardized that AR15s, I would be inclined to check it. Even it just to eliminate possible causes of any issues you encounter later on.

Make sure to dry check all the functions of the lower. Should lock back on an empty mag, bolt release works, pin detents function, check the trigger function including reset and safety.
 
The biggest thing is checking headspace. A decent smith can do this or you can buy the gauges yourself.

Disagree! This step is totally unneeded with a complete upper... ALL makers are producing standardized uppers, so unless it's bought from a backyard builder or hobbyist/smith, it's just unneccessary!!! And his post said it's an Aero.

I got a stripped lower that I put all the parts on, then bought a complete upper from Aero that I just pinned on, threw a bolt in and charging handle so am I good to go? Or should I have a smith check anything first? Just trying to make sure this thing doesn't blow up in my face. It's a pretty much all Aero M5e1 build. Thanks!

IMO, since you bought a complete upper you should be good to go... provided you lubed the BCG and bolt. The parts in the lower are mostly trigger and release, they either work or they don't. The only other parts are the buffer and spring... again, it either works or it doesn't. You shouldn't be in any danger since you have a complete upper.
 
Disagree! This step is totally unneeded with a complete upper... ALL makers are producing standardized uppers, so unless it's bought from a backyard builder or hobbyist/smith, it's just unneccessary!!! And his post said it's an Aero.



IMO, since you bought a complete upper you should be good to go... provided you lubed the BCG and bolt. The parts in the lower are mostly trigger and release, they either work or they don't. The only other parts are the buffer and spring... again, it either works or it doesn't. You shouldn't be in any danger since you have a complete upper.


OP stated he bought the bolt separate. Did he buy an Aero bolt? Or some other MFG?

I have found bolts with out of spec headspace before.

OP also stated a STRIPPED lower, which means he put all the parts in himself. I have fixed plenty of lowers people assembled wrong or didn't function test.

If there is an issue, Best case it jams or he put the hammer spring in backwards and it doesn't fire. Worst case his disconnector or seer is out of spec and he gets a OOB and blows up his gun.
 
So it was an Aero complete upper with an aero bolt carrier group that comes separately. Everything seems to function properly on the lower and the bolt locks back. The head space is what I was pretty much wondering about
 
Thanks for the tips guys! I'll probably have it checked to be on the safe side. Super excited to get this thing out to the range and see what it can do!
 
Disagree! This step is totally unneeded with a complete upper... ALL makers are producing standardized uppers, so unless it's bought from a backyard builder or hobbyist/smith, it's just unneccessary!!! And his post said it's an Aero.



IMO, since you bought a complete upper you should be good to go... provided you lubed the BCG and bolt. The parts in the lower are mostly trigger and release, they either work or they don't. The only other parts are the buffer and spring... again, it either works or it doesn't. You shouldn't be in any danger since you have a complete upper.

This.
 
OP stated he bought the bolt separate. Did he buy an Aero bolt? Or some other MFG?

I have found bolts with out of spec headspace before.

OP also stated a STRIPPED lower, which means he put all the parts in himself. I have fixed plenty of lowers people assembled wrong or didn't function test.

If there is an issue, Best case it jams or he put the hammer spring in backwards and it doesn't fire. Worst case his disconnector or seer is out of spec and he gets a OOB and blows up his gun.

Ah. Never heard of a bolt problem. Wouldn't think Aero would be producing out of spec bolts. And I think if one finds a headspace problem it is more likely to be an overcranked/undertorqued barrel put on by an amateur than a bad bolt.

As for the rest, it is exactly as I stated in my post... it either works or it don't... there is no danger, which is what the OP was asking. Where are you seeing these disconnector and sear problems... sounds like a fantasy to me.
 
Ah. Never heard of a bolt problem. Wouldn't think Aero would be producing out of spec bolts. And I think if one finds a headspace problem it is more likely to be an overcranked/undertorqued barrel put on by an amateur than a bad bolt.

As for the rest, it is exactly as I stated in my post... it either works or it don't... there is no danger, which is what the OP was asking. Where are you seeing these disconnector and sear problems... sounds like a fantasy to me.

The sky is falling.
 
FWIW:

"If you get a quality bolt to go with your Noveske barrel you should not need a headspace gauge. It's nice to have for some reassurance, but not really needed when using quality, new parts. On an AR, headspacing is set by the barrel extension and the bolt dimensions.Dec 25, 2010"
 
So it was an Aero complete upper with an aero bolt carrier group that comes separately. Everything seems to function properly on the lower and the bolt locks back. The head space is what I was pretty much wondering about

IMO if the bolt closes on a round and the action locks up, you are probably good to go, especially since the bolt and upper come from the same maker. Call Aero and see what they have to say about it. But if getting it checked reassures you, go for it.
 
FWIW:

"If you get a quality bolt to go with your Noveske barrel you should not need a headspace gauge. It's nice to have for some reassurance, but not really needed when using quality, new parts. On an AR, headspacing is set by the barrel extension and the bolt dimensions.Dec 25, 2010"


I bout an Odin works BCG and the bolt face was too deep.

As for parts, I have seen a drop in trigger that wouldn't disconnect, which can be pretty dangerous. A worn trigger that led to a run-away type condition. A out of spec disconnector and/or spring that was somehow jamming up the gun. I replaced it and it ran fine.
 
I bout an Odin works BCG and the bolt face was too deep.

Maybe you should have read the reviews before purchase? Odin has some pretty bad reviews for out of spec, Aero had none. Regardless, this is the first I've heard of out of spec bolts. Computer controlled milling has made today's parts very standardized. Learned something new.

Nevertheless, both parts the OP purchased new from the same supplier. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check tho. If it was me, and it locks up, I'd shoot it. But it's not me.
 
As for parts, I have seen a drop in trigger that wouldn't disconnect, which can be pretty dangerous. A worn trigger that led to a run-away type condition. A out of spec disconnector and/or spring that was somehow jamming up the gun. I replaced it and it ran fine.

I'm still not seeing how these blow up the gun... what am I missing???
 
To make a frame of reference, I see a lot of ARs in my classes over the years with all sorts of problems.

Yes, I've seen one Aero BCG that was faulty...the carrier wasn't machined inside correctly and it crushed the gas rings.

Have also seen plenty of crap LPKs where the disconnector nose or the hook on the hammer was mis-shaped or broke off...then there's backward springs, but that's not a safety issue...but the mis-shaped/ broken FCG parts were.
 
Incorrectly installed or out-of-spec LPK parts were mentioned as cause for possible OOB discharge.... my understanding is that the firing pin cannot protrude until the bolt is locked. So how does a faulty sear or disconnect lead to an OOB? A runaway, yes. Something to watch out for. But even in a mistimed gas system, how would brand new clean LPK parts be able to cause an OOB discharge????

Anybody?
 

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