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Have tools and know how in Eugene if you make it this way and would like some assistance
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Not sure if anyone else has experienced this, but my carbine had a sloppy fit between the gas block and gas tube.
What i did to fix it was removed tje gss block from the tube by driving out the roll pin, then cleaned it up inside and out, then applied red loctite sparingly so as not to plug everything only create a better seal on the tube fitment into the gas block, then drove the roll pin back and reassemble.
No more gas in my face!
And adds weight, increases recoil and is no where near as smooth running. I had not even considered considered an extreme intolerance. Good post.
OP, I'd definitely get some help replacing the block...
My experience with Ruger factory builds is they use loctite liberally.
I literally broke a vice taking off a Ruger AR556 barrel nut. I'm guessing that if the handguard is on tight, the block will be also.
You will very likely need to take a propane torch and heat up the gas block set screws to release the loctite. Otherwise they will strip before they budge.
Depending on your rifle it may or may not have dimples, the rear dimple should line up universally(directly opposite the gas port), but the front can be one of a 3-4 spacing from .410 to .500.
If the barrel is not dimpled, it should be. I've seen many set screw style blocks that were set too far back, or came loose due to no dimples to align and hold fast. The set screw style GB is a weak design in my opinion, and needs all the help it can get to stay put. I finally broke down and bought a dimple jig after borrowing a buddies on a regular basis.
The gas block is the only part of an AR that I will always use lock tight on..and Definitely use red.
I'd take @titsonritz up on his offer to give you a hand... he's good people, and knows his stuff
The gas block on my Adams conversions is the same weight as any other. The rod that replaces the gas tube weighs like an ounce. I'm maybe 2 ounces heavier total.They run every bit as smoothly as my DI guns and all of them shoot more accurately than I can. Shooting both systems the relative advantages and disadvantages of each pretty much cancel each other out. The builds using the Adams kits are rifles I wanted to run cleaner and cooler in the chamber area and have less cleaning maintenance.
For those wanting to replace the BCG in a Ruger (they don't use a fully shrouded design) just replace with a mil spec unit from a Tool Craft (.mil uses them as replacements for M4's). The price is right, they meet mil spec, and they work. That said the factory riger BCG works just fine.
Not sure if anyone else has experienced this, but my carbine had a sloppy fit between the gas block and gas tube.
What i did to fix it was removed tje gss block from the tube by driving out the roll pin, then cleaned it up inside and out, then applied red loctite sparingly so as not to plug everything only create a better seal on the tube fitment into the gas block, then drove the roll pin back and reassemble.
No more gas in my face!
I think I was in @OregonArmsAmmo while you were @Yvette ... sounds like they got you taken care of with a higher power scope and adjustable gas block.
You guys were engaged in conversation and didn't want to be that guy that jumps into a gun conversation. I used to work behind the gun counter, it's not a courteous thing to jump into a conversation I wasn't a part of.Btw Reno.. it's stalking if you don't say "Hi". Hahahaha
The AR is like the Small Block Chevy of the Gun world, and just as many combinations are possible, as well as problems! That's part of the process and also part pain in the arse if you start down that rabbit hole with out knowing the ways to diagnose an correct any issues!
I have no idea why it gassing you out, None of my builds gas me at all, but then again, i'm not building mix masters ether!
I do agree, it's likely way over gassed, an adjustable gas block and a heavier buffer might just do the trick!
This video is one of the best I have ever seen, showing exactly how the AR pattern Rifle works, it names all the parts and shows how they all function!
Your quite welcome, glad you found it helpful! Were all a helpful sort here, and we all had to learn somehow! Heck, 4 years ago, i had never built an AR before, and thanks to many members here, I was able to learn how and every one was more then jappy to pass on little tips and tricks! So, we do our best to pay it forward!That is an excellent video! Thank you so much for sharing.
Looks like a 10-22 is in your future.I have a daughter that is showing an interest in fire arms. I am working to gain confidence so that when it is time for me to take her out to the range she will feel comfortable learning from me.
Can I do anything to reduce or eliminate the gas that blows right back to my face after firing or should I choose a different rifle? Suggestions appreciated. Thanks
Ruger AR-556 MPR
Princess good to see that you aren't giving up on shooting! if things have changed I can come help you out. Im in town next week. I now a few places too
The same reason why FALs had them. To tune the rifle to different rounds, which can also alleviate recoil a bit.Its also amazing how many ar's run perfectly without an adjustable gas block. Just run the correct buffer weight and you are good. Ive never seen the need to run an adjustable gas block, but do see the virtues of one if you have a finicky rifle.
Plus, they are almost always short stroke pistons. They just hit the carrier and off it goes, where long stroke pistons are attached and at least guide the carrier a bit (both having tilt, the latter less severe).And adds weight, increases recoil and is no where near as smooth running. I had not even considered considered an extreme intolerance. Good post.
Yvette,Can I do anything to reduce or eliminate the gas that blows right back to my face after firing or should I choose a different rifle? Suggestions appreciated. Thanks
Ruger AR-556 MPR
View attachment 603010
Yvette,
Another OP asked about your gas block and the reason why is, a number of the "parts built" ARs are overgassed. That has a couple of impacts. First it throws the cases forward, not to the rear. Secondly it increases the recoil speed and, as such, the felt recoil, and lastly too much gas will bring the attendant gas and dirt into the upper receiver, and in some cases it will end up in your face, as you have experienced. If your rifle throws cases forward of 3'O clock Noon being the barrel end of the rifle, then it could likely benefit from an adjustable gas block to reduce the gas returning to operate the bolt. That alone may resolve the gas in the face problem, and the rifle will shoot better, have less recoil and stay cleaner. If you are seeing cases eject at 4'O clock, or so, and your getting gas residue, then the trick of filling the charging handle with silicon will likely reduce that occurrence. Replacing the gas block is not a particularly difficult job, but does require removing the flash hider, if equipped, and typically the hand guard and a roll pin for the gas tube. I have adjustable gas blocks on my ARs and it really improves the experience. If you go that route, Google is filled with details.
Yvette,
Another OP asked about your gas block and the reason why is, a number of the "parts built" ARs are overgassed. That has a couple of impacts. First it throws the cases forward, not to the rear. Secondly it increases the recoil speed and, as such, the felt recoil, and lastly too much gas will bring the attendant gas and dirt into the upper receiver, and in some cases it will end up in your face, as you have experienced. If your rifle throws cases forward of 3'O clock Noon being the barrel end of the rifle, then it could likely benefit from an adjustable gas block to reduce the gas returning to operate the bolt. That alone may resolve the gas in the face problem, and the rifle will shoot better, have less recoil and stay cleaner. If you are seeing cases eject at 4'O clock, or so, and your getting gas residue, then the trick of filling the charging handle with silicon will likely reduce that occurrence. Replacing the gas block is not a particularly difficult job, but does require removing the flash hider, if equipped, and typically the hand guard and a roll pin for the gas tube. I have adjustable gas blocks on my ARs and it really improves the experience. If you go that route, Google is filled with details.