Eliminate or reduce gas blow back?

[Forrest Castile]

Have tools and know how in Eugene if you make it this way and would like some assistance

 

[osprey]

Not sure if anyone else has experienced this, but my carbine had a sloppy fit between the gas block and gas tube.
What i did to fix it was removed tje gss block from the tube by driving out the roll pin, then cleaned it up inside and out, then applied red loctite sparingly so as not to plug everything only create a better seal on the tube fitment into the gas block, then drove the roll pin back and reassemble.
No more gas in my face!

Not sure how getting a better seal at gas tube/block junction helps with less gas in the face but if it worked for you rock on.

 

[3MTA3]

And adds weight, increases recoil and is no where near as smooth running. I had not even considered considered an extreme intolerance. Good post.

The gas block on my Adams conversions is the same weight as any other. The rod that replaces the gas tube weighs like an ounce. I'm maybe 2 ounces heavier total.They run every bit as smoothly as my DI guns and all of them shoot more accurately than I can. Shooting both systems the relative advantages and disadvantages of each pretty much cancel each other out. The builds using the Adams kits are rifles I wanted to run cleaner and cooler in the chamber area and have less cleaning maintenance.

For those wanting to replace the BCG in a Ruger (they don't use a fully shrouded design) just replace with a mil spec unit from a Tool Craft (.mil uses them as replacements for M4's). The price is right, they meet mil spec, and they work. That said the factory riger BCG works just fine.

 

[Mygrainman]

OP, I'd definitely get some help replacing the block...
My experience with Ruger factory builds is they use loctite liberally.
I literally broke a vice taking off a Ruger AR556 barrel nut. I'm guessing that if the handguard is on tight, the block will be also.
You will very likely need to take a propane torch and heat up the gas block set screws to release the loctite. Otherwise they will strip before they budge.
Depending on your rifle it may or may not have dimples, the rear dimple should line up universally(directly opposite the gas port), but the front can be one of a 3-4 spacing from .410 to .500.
If the barrel is not dimpled, it should be. I've seen many set screw style blocks that were set too far back, or came loose due to no dimples to align and hold fast. The set screw style GB is a weak design in my opinion, and needs all the help it can get to stay put. I finally broke down and bought a dimple jig after borrowing a buddies on a regular basis.
The gas block is the only part of an AR that I will always use lock tight on..and Definitely use red.
I'd take @titsonritz up on his offer to give you a hand... he's good people, and knows his stuff

 

[3MTA3]

OP, I'd definitely get some help replacing the block...
My experience with Ruger factory builds is they use loctite liberally.
I literally broke a vice taking off a Ruger AR556 barrel nut. I'm guessing that if the handguard is on tight, the block will be also.
You will very likely need to take a propane torch and heat up the gas block set screws to release the loctite. Otherwise they will strip before they budge.
Depending on your rifle it may or may not have dimples, the rear dimple should line up universally(directly opposite the gas port), but the front can be one of a 3-4 spacing from .410 to .500.
If the barrel is not dimpled, it should be. I've seen many set screw style blocks that were set too far back, or came loose due to no dimples to align and hold fast. The set screw style GB is a weak design in my opinion, and needs all the help it can get to stay put. I finally broke down and bought a dimple jig after borrowing a buddies on a regular basis.
The gas block is the only part of an AR that I will always use lock tight on..and Definitely use red.
I'd take @titsonritz up on his offer to give you a hand... he's good people, and knows his stuff

Agreed. This is when you want to shell out the bucks unless you have the skills and the tools.

 

[titsonritz]

The gas block on my Adams conversions is the same weight as any other. The rod that replaces the gas tube weighs like an ounce. I'm maybe 2 ounces heavier total.They run every bit as smoothly as my DI guns and all of them shoot more accurately than I can. Shooting both systems the relative advantages and disadvantages of each pretty much cancel each other out. The builds using the Adams kits are rifles I wanted to run cleaner and cooler in the chamber area and have less cleaning maintenance.

For those wanting to replace the BCG in a Ruger (they don't use a fully shrouded design) just replace with a mil spec unit from a Tool Craft (.mil uses them as replacements for M4's). The price is right, they meet mil spec, and they work. That said the factory riger BCG works just fine.

A friend of mine has one and I can tell a major difference between his Adams piston gun and my SIONICS 16" mid-length w/ A5 gas gun, not even close, but then I can tell difference between my SIONICS and PSA gas gun, too. I don't worry much about cleaning beyond a quick wipe down and will typical put 3-4k rounds before cleaning.

 

[titsonritz]

Not sure if anyone else has experienced this, but my carbine had a sloppy fit between the gas block and gas tube.
What i did to fix it was removed tje gss block from the tube by driving out the roll pin, then cleaned it up inside and out, then applied red loctite sparingly so as not to plug everything only create a better seal on the tube fitment into the gas block, then drove the roll pin back and reassemble.
No more gas in my face!

Guys like me hate guys like you.

 

[WhyElKay]

I think I was in @OregonArmsAmmo while you were @Yvette ... sounds like they got you taken care of with a higher power scope and adjustable gas block.

Btw Reno.. it's stalking if you don't say "Hi". Hahahaha

 

[Member 34319]

Btw Reno.. it's stalking if you don't say "Hi". Hahahaha

You guys were engaged in conversation and didn't want to be that guy that jumps into a gun conversation. I used to work behind the gun counter, it's not a courteous thing to jump into a conversation I wasn't a part of.

Besides it sounded like you were in good hands, nothing I could have offered to the topic that wasn't already being discussed.

I also had my kiddo with me and he wasn't happy I was keeping him from a needed nap!

Im pretty good with AR15s. I even built them for a living temporary. If you ever need help let me know.

 

[WhyElKay]

The AR is like the Small Block Chevy of the Gun world, and just as many combinations are possible, as well as problems! That's part of the process and also part pain in the arse if you start down that rabbit hole with out knowing the ways to diagnose an correct any issues!
I have no idea why it gassing you out, None of my builds gas me at all, but then again, i'm not building mix masters ether!
I do agree, it's likely way over gassed, an adjustable gas block and a heavier buffer might just do the trick!

This video is one of the best I have ever seen, showing exactly how the AR pattern Rifle works, it names all the parts and shows how they all function!

That is an excellent video! Thank you so much for sharing.

 

[Ura-Ki]

That is an excellent video! Thank you so much for sharing.

Your quite welcome, glad you found it helpful! Were all a helpful sort here, and we all had to learn somehow! Heck, 4 years ago, i had never built an AR before, and thanks to many members here, I was able to learn how and every one was more then jappy to pass on little tips and tricks! So, we do our best to pay it forward!

 

[WhyElKay]

I have a daughter that is showing an interest in fire arms. I am working to gain confidence so that when it is time for me to take her out to the range she will feel comfortable learning from me.

 

[Member 34319]

I have a daughter that is showing an interest in fire arms. I am working to gain confidence so that when it is time for me to take her out to the range she will feel comfortable learning from me.

Looks like a 10-22 is in your future.

 

[Justinlee]

Can I do anything to reduce or eliminate the gas that blows right back to my face after firing or should I choose a different rifle? Suggestions appreciated. Thanks
Ruger AR-556 MPR

Princess good to see that you aren't giving up on shooting! if things have changed I can come help you out. Im in town next week. I now a few places too

 

[WhyElKay]

Princess good to see that you aren't giving up on shooting! if things have changed I can come help you out. Im in town next week. I now a few places too

Nothings changed Justin. It's not going to. Thank you for offering to help but I'm good right now. Thank you

 

[Boboclown]

Its also amazing how many ar's run perfectly without an adjustable gas block. Just run the correct buffer weight and you are good. Ive never seen the need to run an adjustable gas block, but do see the virtues of one if you have a finicky rifle.

The same reason why FALs had them. To tune the rifle to different rounds, which can also alleviate recoil a bit.

And adds weight, increases recoil and is no where near as smooth running. I had not even considered considered an extreme intolerance. Good post.

Plus, they are almost always short stroke pistons. They just hit the carrier and off it goes, where long stroke pistons are attached and at least guide the carrier a bit (both having tilt, the latter less severe).

But then with long stroke pistons disassembly of an AR can be a pita.

 

[Boboclown]

I'm guessing wearing a mask is out of the picture. Some kind of sealant would work, but long term adjustable gas block would be better.

 

[Pacific NW Rider]

Can I do anything to reduce or eliminate the gas that blows right back to my face after firing or should I choose a different rifle? Suggestions appreciated. Thanks
Ruger AR-556 MPR
View attachment 603010

Yvette,

Another OP asked about your gas block and the reason why is, a number of the "parts built" ARs are overgassed. That has a couple of impacts. First it throws the cases forward, not to the rear. Secondly it increases the recoil speed and, as such, the felt recoil, and lastly too much gas will bring the attendant gas and dirt into the upper receiver, and in some cases it will end up in your face, as you have experienced. If your rifle throws cases forward of 3'O clock Noon being the barrel end of the rifle, then it could likely benefit from an adjustable gas block to reduce the gas returning to operate the bolt. That alone may resolve the gas in the face problem, and the rifle will shoot better, have less recoil and stay cleaner. If you are seeing cases eject at 4'O clock, or so, and your getting gas residue, then the trick of filling the charging handle with silicon will likely reduce that occurrence. Replacing the gas block is not a particularly difficult job, but does require removing the flash hider, if equipped, and typically the hand guard and a roll pin for the gas tube. I have adjustable gas blocks on my ARs and it really improves the experience. If you go that route, Google is filled with details.

 

[WhyElKay]

Yvette,

Another OP asked about your gas block and the reason why is, a number of the "parts built" ARs are overgassed. That has a couple of impacts. First it throws the cases forward, not to the rear. Secondly it increases the recoil speed and, as such, the felt recoil, and lastly too much gas will bring the attendant gas and dirt into the upper receiver, and in some cases it will end up in your face, as you have experienced. If your rifle throws cases forward of 3'O clock Noon being the barrel end of the rifle, then it could likely benefit from an adjustable gas block to reduce the gas returning to operate the bolt. That alone may resolve the gas in the face problem, and the rifle will shoot better, have less recoil and stay cleaner. If you are seeing cases eject at 4'O clock, or so, and your getting gas residue, then the trick of filling the charging handle with silicon will likely reduce that occurrence. Replacing the gas block is not a particularly difficult job, but does require removing the flash hider, if equipped, and typically the hand guard and a roll pin for the gas tube. I have adjustable gas blocks on my ARs and it really improves the experience. If you go that route, Google is filled with details.

I didn't notice where the casings were ejecting. I was using a catcher and it was centered at 3 o'clock. It did OK. The gas is an issue, but this is my first AR I've ever had and I think I'm going to just work through it. I need to work on being more consistent at the way I sit at the bench. Starting left working down.. by the time I get to the bottom I could see the gas through the scope. I let it rest for a little bit and it was better. I am thinking about getting a fan that will direct the gas away from me. I know this will not be my last AR, I just think it is probably good enough to do some learning with.

 

[Pacific NW Rider]

Yvette,

Another OP asked about your gas block and the reason why is, a number of the "parts built" ARs are overgassed. That has a couple of impacts. First it throws the cases forward, not to the rear. Secondly it increases the recoil speed and, as such, the felt recoil, and lastly too much gas will bring the attendant gas and dirt into the upper receiver, and in some cases it will end up in your face, as you have experienced. If your rifle throws cases forward of 3'O clock Noon being the barrel end of the rifle, then it could likely benefit from an adjustable gas block to reduce the gas returning to operate the bolt. That alone may resolve the gas in the face problem, and the rifle will shoot better, have less recoil and stay cleaner. If you are seeing cases eject at 4'O clock, or so, and your getting gas residue, then the trick of filling the charging handle with silicon will likely reduce that occurrence. Replacing the gas block is not a particularly difficult job, but does require removing the flash hider, if equipped, and typically the hand guard and a roll pin for the gas tube. I have adjustable gas blocks on my ARs and it really improves the experience. If you go that route, Google is filled with details.

Not knowing the distance you shot these sample targets, I would say you're probably doing fine. Unless you have a "target" grade rifle, remember that the AR platform is a battle rifle, and some shoot very tight groups and others not as tight. Ammo plays a part in this as well. Have fun getting to know your rifle!