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when I got my demonstration for cleaning the rifle, I was told to stagger them. If it is just a myth it doesn't matter if I stagger them or line them up. the person who told me to stagger them super trustworthy so I'll just stagger them.
 
The typical piston AR is not beyond criticism of course, it introduces a new moving mass that some shooters allege interferes with accuracy and that sort of thing, but, in this case, it may solve an intractable problem for those who simply can't tolerate the fumes.

And adds weight, increases recoil and is no where near as smooth running. I had not even considered considered an extreme intolerance. Good post.
 
If you are asking about the extractor then picture one. When you are facing towards the bolt face (bolt close to you, bolt carrier farthest away from you) the extractor should sit at the 11 o clock position. And like others said the bolt must be pulled out to its extended position when you slide it into the upper receiver.
 
SIONICS is supplying the weapon pre-suppressed? If that is the case then they most likely dialed in the gas port hole for a suppressed rifle...correct?

For 11.5" barrels they have a standard size for general purpose unsuppressed, and reduced gas port size for running a mix of suppressed and unsuppressed and an extreme reduced gas port for dedicated suppressed. The 16" barrels mid-length is they're pretty forgiving at .076", which is pretty much perfect for both.
 
If you are asking about the extractor then picture one. When you are facing towards the bolt face (bolt close to you, bolt carrier farthest away from you) the extractor should sit at the 11 o clock position. And like others said the bolt must be pulled out to its extended position when you slide it into the upper receiver.
Thank you
 
good news it is clean and oiled with the new scope mounted *correctly* and as far as the gas block.. I'm going to have to suck it up or buy another rifle because I'm never going to be able to get the hand rail off. Ready for the range on Sunday and I will give it another try. Thank you so much for all the information, I appreciate it so much. Being out of your element is tough and it is nice to know that there are people that can help.
 
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The more young (compared to us old guys!) people we can encourage the better. Also consider taking some training courses before you engrain any bad habits. Trainers run the gamut from terrible to terrific and from cheap to cosmopolitan.

My skills have become quite rusty over the last five years so I am taking courses with Steve at Cerberus in Washington and I definitely recommend his courses. If you are in Southern Oregon ask around for training recommendations.
 
I'm going to have to suck it up or buy another rifle because I'm never going to be able to get the hand rail off.

I'd bet money if you put some good photos on here, top, bottom, sides you'll get the help you need. (Well lit, so we can assess the type of hand guard you have)

I'm also betting somebody local will assist if needed in person for a hand guard removal.

If you were down here by me it would be done already (we are a community to help).

Don't underestimate this group. Seriously. There have been members calling members for help on everything and anything.
 
ugh has anyone taken off the handguard/rail from the Ruger AR556 MPR? I'm shook.

That rail is a squeeze clamp style, removing the two bolts at the bottom rear should allow the hand guard to slide off. I see no anti rotation tabs so rotating should help pop it off. I seriously doubt Ruger is use a pin anti-rotation method, but I do know they were having issues with their rail rattling off so it is possible they are using a locking compound on the barrel nut/handguard connection.

My advice is don't go down this rabbit hole, but if you'd like to I can remove it. I'm in Oregon City but will need to pick my tools up in Salem, let me know if you'd like some help.
 
Yes it does and it is still BS. Find an older addition and it will state the barrel nut torque spec is 30-80 in.lbs. it was a typo and fixed in later additions. Also the method of staking the carrier key is an outdated and nothing I would do. I have multiple copies of TM 9-1005-319-23&P and do use it, to point but there are some errors and/or dated information in it.

Regarding the gas rings, if you remove the bolt from the carrier and look past the gas key through the cam pin shaft hole, slightly to the rear you'll see a shelf and notice the bolt path is not perfectly cylindrical, it is slightly tapered, this taper causes the rings to be pinched together and closes the gap. In fact, a properly built AR will run a single gas ring or none at all in the case of a suppressed weapon.
I have ran my issued M-4 so hard that I have blown the rings completely out of the bolt and it still ran hard! Yes, it gassed the hell out of the rifle and me, but it flat out ran when it needed to run! In all the Hundreds of thousands of rounds I ever fired, I never had a M-16/M-4 go "Hard Bent" once! Closest Was a broken firing pin, which is why I always carried a spare!:cool:
 
That rail is a squeeze clamp style, removing the two bolts at the bottom rear should allow the hand guard to slide off. I see no anti rotation tabs so rotating should help pop it off. I seriously doubt Ruger is use a pin anti-rotation method, but I do know they were having issues with their rail rattling off so it is possible they are using a locking compound on the barrel nut/handguard connection.

My advice is don't go down this rabbit hole, but if you'd like to I can remove it. I'm in Oregon City but will need to pick my tools up in Salem, let me know if you'd like some help.
Well heck, if your coming all the way to Salem, you could stop in and use my Big Arse Vise and all the tools ya need!
We could call @v0lcom13sn0w and make it a party!:D
 
That rail is a squeeze clamp style, removing the two bolts at the bottom rear should allow the hand guard to slide off. I see no anti rotation tabs so rotating should help pop it off. I seriously doubt Ruger is use a pin anti-rotation method, but I do know they were having issues with their rail rattling off so it is possible they are using a locking compound on the barrel nut/handguard connection.

My advice is don't go down this rabbit hole, but if you'd like to I can remove it. I'm in Oregon City but will need to pick my tools up in Salem, let me know if you'd like some help.
Thank you. I see where it should come apart but it just won't budge I don't have the strength to do it. I'm going to try it on Sunday and see how it goes..
 
Thank you. I see where it should come apart but it just won't budge I don't have the strength to do it. I'm going to try it on Sunday and see how it goes..
Try a few taps with a soft face hammer! You could also CAREFULLY stick a wide flat blade screw driver in the slot and gently twist until it pops loose! Wrap a few layers of heavy masking tape around the hand guard to protect if from the hammer blows!
 
Well heck, if your coming all the way to Salem, you could stop in and use my Big Arse Vise and all the tools ya need!
We could call @v0lcom13sn0w and make it a party!:D

I'm headed to Corvallis this week and was planning on grabbing tools on my back up to OC as I have some wrenching to do on my a couple of my AR's. My setup is a mobile operation, I use a Jaw Horse as a portable vise stand. I'm always up for a party, we'll have to hook up one of these weekend.
 
Thank you. I see where it should come apart but it just won't budge I don't have the strength to do it. I'm going to try it on Sunday and see how it goes..

Do you have a way to securely hold the upper receiver such a clam shell receiver block? With the upper secured grab the handguard at the muzzle end and work slightly back and forth. This in combination with @Ura-Ki posted should do the job.
 
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Not sure if anyone else has experienced this, but my carbine had a sloppy fit between the gas block and gas tube.
What i did to fix it was removed tje gss block from the tube by driving out the roll pin, then cleaned it up inside and out, then applied red loctite sparingly so as not to plug everything only create a better seal on the tube fitment into the gas block, then drove the roll pin back and reassemble.
No more gas in my face!
 

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