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I shoot with a suppressor which forces much more gas back into my face and out the ejection port. They way I solved the problem was by installing an adjustable gas block. It takes a bit of experimentation to turn the throttling screw in or out to find to sweet spot where the rifle ejects and feeds properly. I have noticed it also reduces recoil now that it is adjusted juuust right.
 
Check the gas rings on the bolt, make sure that the gaps on the rings are staggered. If all three line up the pressure goes out the side through the vent holes on the bolt carrier.
 
My hunch is that your rifle is overgassed. This would route an unnecessarily high volume of burned propellant (gas) back through the hole in the barrel, up into the gas block, rearward through the gas tube, and into the bolt carrier. After the gas pushes the bolt carrier to the rear that gas has to go somewhere. In most rifles it vents out the ejection port with the empty brass and the shooter never notices the gas. I've fired thousands of rounds through M16s and M4s and never noticed gas venting by the charging handle. My recommendation is to ask Vezley (Tim Copeland in Estacada) to check the upper and install an adjustable gas block if appropriate. You can ship the upper receiver by itself and keep the lower receiver at home. I would not squirt sealant on my charging handle.
 
I have purposely lined up the gas rings on a couple different AR''s and never noticed any change in function or excess blowback gasses. Obviously your mileage varied from mine. I am guessing this is do to a variations in clearance between the bolt and the carrier on individual examples.
 
An adjustable gas block should be your first step. Its surprising how many AR pattern rifles are way over gassed. SLR Rifleworks makes a solid one, I use them on my AR's with great success.
 
It does not have vents on it. I'll try changing that out and see if that helps. Thanks I appreciate your patience.


You can also add a line of RTV where the charging handle meets the upper. Looks up DIY guides online. You need to use a plastic bag on the upper to prevent it sticking.
 
An adjustable gas block should be your first step. Its surprising how many AR pattern rifles are way over gassed. SLR Rifleworks makes a solid one, I use them on my AR's with great success.

Its also amazing how many ar's run perfectly without an adjustable gas block. Just run the correct buffer weight and you are good. Ive never seen the need to run an adjustable gas block, but do see the virtues of one if you have a finicky rifle.
 
The AR is like the Small Block Chevy of the Gun world, and just as many combinations are possible, as well as problems! That's part of the process and also part pain in the arse if you start down that rabbit hole with out knowing the ways to diagnose an correct any issues!
I have no idea why it gassing you out, None of my builds gas me at all, but then again, i'm not building mix masters ether!
I do agree, it's likely way over gassed, an adjustable gas block and a heavier buffer might just do the trick!


This video is one of the best I have ever seen, showing exactly how the AR pattern Rifle works, it names all the parts and shows how they all function!
 
Its also amazing how many ar's run perfectly without an adjustable gas block. Just run the correct buffer weight and you are good. Ive never seen the need to run an adjustable gas block, but do see the virtues of one if you have a finicky rifle.
.....I run suppressors on most of my AR's. The benefits of adjustable gas is very clear under these circumstances. Even without a can, once you've used a good one, they are pretty cool. Run what you like, no problem there....
 
Greasing the charging handle helps a lot. It doesn't need to move all the time like the BCG so coating it in grease seals that exit point from letting gases come through the channel it rides in. Might make for a mess cleaning later, but it's always helped keep gas out of my face when shooting suppressed.

I'd also recommend getting at least a H2 buffer for the ruger. It's likely over gassed to help cycle.
 
Greasing the charging handle helps a lot. It doesn't need to move all the time like the BCG so coating it in grease seals that exit point from letting gases come through the channel it rides in. Might make for a mess cleaning later, but it's always helped keep gas out of my face when shooting suppressed.

I'd also recommend getting at least a H2 buffer for the ruger. It's likely over gassed to help cycle.

Good point. I always use thick red wheel bearing grease on my CH. Never thought about it helping to seal from gas but it probably does help.

I also use an H2 buffer in all my builds.
 
First things first, mount your scope on the receiver not the handguard, adjust your stock appropriately and get your nose off the charging handle.

While charging handles like the Radian Freedom Bone (posted above) and PRI Gas Buster help the issue, the bottom line is they are a bandaid to the root cause which is an overgassed barrel, meaning over-sized gas port. Black River Tactical offers these solutions...
CustomTune Gas Port :: Black River Tactical

Heavier buffers are also a bandaid to gas port size, I'd use an H2 as a minimum even a normal gas port. I have an A5H3 in my go to, and it works great with a correctly ported barrel.

If changing up rifles is actually an option, I'd go that route. PM if you're interested and I'll point point out a few options and/or let you blast mine so you can see for yourself. PS, I'm left-handed and it don't mean squat.

A primer on understanding the AR gas system...
Understanding the AR-15 Gas System
 
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Can I do anything to reduce or eliminate the gas that blows right back to my face after firing or should I choose a different rifle? Suggestions appreciated. Thanks
Ruger AR-556 MPR
View attachment 603010

I also have a Ruger AR556, but it's the base model. I don't have any blowback issues even compared to my piston AR's (zero blowback due to design).
Having read through this I would try the following to see if it worked before having the gas block changed:
  • New gas rings especially if you bought it used.
  • Heavier buffer weight.
These are inexpensive and things easily done without special tools or the services of a gun smith.

Changing the gas block requires removing the hand guard and then the original gas block. This usually requires either a punch and hammer. When you put the new gas block on it needs to be lined up properly with the gas hole on top of the barrel. If you aren't comfortable doing this you can have it done by a gun smith and also at may shops like Curt's in Gladstone that do their own builds. You could also take it to a shp like Curts and get their recommendations on how to minimize it.

The only problem with replacing your gas block by yourself is that you will want to keep working on your AR and pretty soon you will be addicted and frequently broke.
 
I also have a Ruger AR556, but it's the base model. I don't have any blowback issues even compared to my piston AR's (zero blowback due to design).
Having read through this I would try the following to see if it worked before having the gas block changed:
  • New gas rings especially if you bought it used.
  • Heavier buffer weight.
These are inexpensive and things easily done without special tools or the services of a gun smith.

Changing the gas block requires removing the hand guard and then the original gas block. This usually requires either a punch and hammer. When you put the new gas block on it needs to be lined up properly with the gas hole on top of the barrel. If you aren't comfortable doing this you can have it done by a gun smith and also at may shops like Curt's in Gladstone that do their own builds. You could also take it to a shp like Curts and get their recommendations on how to minimize it.

The only problem with replacing your gas block by yourself is that you will want to keep working on your AR and pretty soon you will be addicted and frequently broke.
ot
I'm just going to throw this out there... I've taken it apart and cleaned it. I've changed the bolt carrier group and I've changed the charging handle. What is the possibility that I did not put something back together correctly? Several of you guys say you have no issues with this.
 
ot
I'm just going to throw this out there... I've taken it apart and cleaned it. I've changed the bolt carrier group and I've changed the charging handle. What is the possibility that I did not put something back together correctly? Several of you guys say you have no issues with this.

Pretty nil, what BCG did you change to?
 

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