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Then you are just bolting the table top directly to top of your Treadle Frame ? .. So is the frame itself , taking most of the bearing weight of the Cast Head ?

The only Treadle I have is the old 29-4, but that is a cylinder arm, and just bolt direct top of the 'metal top' drop-bed top .

here a pic. of the treadle frame I did over sew years back . I actually just sand blasted and industrial powder coated the old frame, then I gold leaf paint the Singer log's and side frame logo's
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treadle.jpg
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Then you are just bolting the table top directly to top of your Treadle Frame ? .. So is the frame itself , taking most of the bearing weight of the Cast Head ?

The only Treadle I have is the old 29-4, but that is a cylinder arm, and just bolt direct top of the 'metal top' drop-bed top .

here a pic. of the treadle frame I did over sew years back . I actually just sand blasted and industrial powder coated the old frame, then I gold leaf paint the Singer log's and side frame logo's
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View attachment 1434253
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From what I could find, it looks like yes the cast iron frame takes the the weight of the head and the table just bolts/screws to the frame. Although the bolt holes on the frame looks smaller than those on the 31-20's frame
 
What came with the parts. About 3/4" thick rough plywood with damage and what appears to be plywood/ MDF drawer parts, definitely not original to the base or the machine for whatever reason.

No pics yet of the Herman Miller table top that's roughly 1.25" thick, of the same 48x24 size. The other pics of similar Singer industrial machines in treadle bases are from the internet searches.

DSCF6651.JPG DSCF6650.JPG DSCF6649.JPG
 
@JustShoot think this would be a better option?



Versus



Butcher block, would need routering and cutting and drilling for treadle belt, then staining/clear coating.

MDF industrial machine table top, would still need drilling/cutting for the treadle, probably fill the extra holes for motor mount, not sure that the 31-15's pin center to center distance is same.

Either option would need some work and both still need an oil drip pan, one that has a hole for the knee lift mechanism, although I rarely use mine
 
@JustShoot think this would be a better option?



Versus



Butcher block, would need routering and cutting and drilling for treadle belt, then staining/clear coating.

MDF industrial machine table top, would still need drilling/cutting for the treadle, probably fill the extra holes for motor mount, not sure that the 31-15's pin center to center distance is same.

Either option would need some work and both still need an oil drip pan, one that has a hole for the knee lift mechanism, although I rarely use mine
i wouldn't buy the prefabbed plywood top from ebay/cutex sewstore, unless it was a dimensional match to my flat-bed machine .
Pin/hinge holes in the schematic pic. in add say's ( 9-3/8" ) on-center spread, to a ( 19' x 7 1/8' ) cutout.
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Pin center to center distance on my 31-20, at least the single screw round hinges, center to center is just about 13.5 inches. Cutout for machine though is 19 by about 7 1/8". Very close but definitely the hinges are the problem, not to mention the treadle belt needing the slot to be more centered with the machine as opposed to being on an angle. So looks like that's a no-go on the Ebay/Cutex precut tabletop...the 31-15 I have, didn't come with the hinges or table hinge parts, so I'll have to find them anyways. I see on India Mart tables that look disturbingly similar to the Singer 31 class table tops, except they require a minimum order # of 70 to 500 table tops so that's definitely a no go. Looks like the 1.75" nominal, 48x25 butcher block top really would be the best option for $150?
 
Pin center to center distance on my 31-20, at least the single screw round hinges, center to center is just about 13.5 inches. Cutout for machine though is 19 by about 7 1/8". Very close but definitely the hinges are the problem, not to mention the treadle belt needing the slot to be more centered with the machine as opposed to being on an angle. So looks like that's a no-go on the Ebay/Cutex precut tabletop...the 31-15 I have, didn't come with the hinges or table hinge parts, so I'll have to find them anyways. I see on India Mart tables that look disturbingly similar to the Singer 31 class table tops, except they require a minimum order # of 70 to 500 table tops so that's definitely a no go. Looks like the 1.75" nominal, 48x25 butcher block top really would be the best option for $150?
I think I got a set of the old screw-down round hinge/pins in one of the box's on the shelf . I will check latter to see if I can find them.
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If, hypothetically... I were to convert one of the several ~6x12 cargo trailers on the market to a mobile sewing shop using pre-owned/used RV windows, a recycled kitchen cabinet or two, and a treadle base with a full length table top that's roughly 6 ft long by 2 ft.. would that work out especially if I center the machine head and base so that the trailer is balanced in weight distribution? 🤔

Edit actually if I'm gonna go full width, may as well as put the machine head in a 39" wide piece, just to make ample space for stuff? Will have to think on this more. It'll depend on the trailers inside dimensions and locating where's there's space
 
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Actually on further consideration... a 74x39x1.5 birch butcher block "kitchen island" top could very well put the sewing machine head right on the centerline or very close to it if I set it up so that the table is oriented longitudinally with long side being parallel with the trailer long side.... if a 6x12 nominal trailer has inside dimensions of 68.5 width and 142.5 length... the centerline would be 34.25 inches.. with a 39 inch table, that gives me about 8.75 inches space within which to put the machine head on... and the 74" length out of a 142.5" length means I would have an empty space of 68.5 inches, which could easily be taken up by a cutting table/layout table? Hm something to consider further.

That's a lot of space; 74x39... probably would need to have additional supports by way of a storage cabinet under it and a 2x4 bolted to the wall of the trailer to support the table top back edge.
 
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I dug around . I found the table hinge plates for the era of manufacture for that old flat-bed . I could not find any Pins with the flat hook .
but you can see the (singer industry manufacturing Co.) SIMANCO part# in the pic. for hinge-plates. and that should cross reference to the Pins/hooks .
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View attachment 1459519
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I'll cross check the Singer Parts list pdf I have for 31-15 and 31-20. The 1950s 31-20 has the round single screw table parts and the same flat hooks.
 
Interesting. The .pdf I have from Superior Sewing Supply, "Part list for 31-15, 31-20" shows a bed frame assembly, PN 20067 that looks like it either raised the machine off the table, or lowered the machine to be flat top, so the hinges numbers do not match up at all.

Edit. My 31-20's table does not have such a frame, the machine head is supported entirely by the wood and thick felt pads.
 
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# 12361 are the numbers on my 31-20's hooks, the round hinge parts with 1 screw, is also 1-1/2" diameter , same as the #44139 in the listing.
 
it work, as long as they not selling you a particle-board top . hopefully it a 1.5" of good quality grade Lam./plywood .
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I emailed their tech support guy, going to see what they say about the specific product. If it's MDF/particle board, then it'll be the Home Depot Hardwood Reflections 1.5" thick birch butcher block countertop/desk top (depending on what size I decide on).

Edit NEVER MIND.... $145 SHIPPING 😳😳😳😳 more for shipping than it's worth, good lord
 
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So I brought "home" (storage unit really) a Singer 20U33 3/4 "industrial" sewing machine that can do zigzag and straight stitch.. it's basically a beefed up domestic sewing machine with a clutch motor and heavy duty table and leg... similar in concept to the Sailrite machines but not walking foot and in an industrial tabletop with clutch motor.. it does have a boss for external mount domestic motor if so desired... anyways. I was always planning to change it to a servo motor but looking at the cast iron industrial treadle base, and the fact the 31-15 needs its own tabletop... but will fit the 31-20's table.. I got to thinking... put the 20U33 on the industrial treadle base with the newer tabletop it's in, after removing the clutch motor assembly and other things? Work on 31-15 when I can and test on the 31-20's power table... hm. Choices. Photos will come when I next go to the storage unit, forgot my camera today :s0140:
 

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