Brought home a long term project. Industrial Treadle sewing machine

[CamoDeafie]

So. I've got this thing in storage now.

1904 Singer Model 31-15 industrial sewing machine; it at least moves the needle and feed dog but sluggishly. Definitely needs cleaning. New oil. New seals/bushings if any, New oil wicks probably.

It came with some poorly made table top that is not original to it, and a horrid looking Westinghouse sewing machine motor with chewed wiring

At least the treadle base is all there, nothing missing except the black enamel... so long term project clearly. Will need a new table top. Don't have much wood working tools myself... another hobby? at least my step-father in law has wood working experience and tools.... maybe he could help out. Thinking butcher block from Home Depot and then figure the rest out using Ebay/vintage sewing site parts.

On to the pics! May have to post more next reply.



the head of the machine



Model number and serial


Back side, can see surface rust.



junk motor, maybe good parts, maybe not. Definitely not safe to plug in.


2 piece bobbin winder assembly with spool pin.


Knee lift lever to lift presser foot, my 31-20 has same thing but much newer and nicer



Cast iron goodness, legs



Cast iron goodness, complete treadle assembly with big flywheel and pitman rod. I tested the pedal, it spins the flywheel, and there are 4 bolts already screwed in on it for the legs.


Seems when assembled and in good color (new enamel paint); the Cast iron base will fetch a bit of money for interior decor but I am a practical man, I want functionality not just "looks"

Read More

 

[CamoDeafie]

Rest of the stuff;

Backside access port, innards looks clean, just dusty and dry

Underside,.some surface rust, not a big issue, probably dried lubricant/oils so some work there


Side access, probably would consume a lot of my time cleaning, oiling, adjusting and making sure it's not too rusted out.

Bobbin hook area, looks decent, little rust so that's good



Bobbins, case, zipper foot. Decent condition, case still has a bobbin in with thick thread.


adjustable zipper foot and needle area, most severe case of rust I've ever seen.. probably would do me well to replace the needle and slide plates...

tension assembly, a bit different from my 31-20's tension. Spring looks way compressed, might need replacing.



Crudely cut table top with even more crude drawer. Very rough, so much splintering. Some damage that makes me distrust its ability to hold the machine up.. it was removed from the table when I bought it. And lots of mud dauber nests in the drawer....

 

[CamoDeafie]

I've worked on more complicated machinery than this....

I will definitely be taking a lot of photos of where and how parts go, and taking things apart subassembly by subassembly to clean rust and prep for new oil... but I figure.. if I'm gonna go all the way, may as well as prep the cast body for new paint?

 

[made in china]

Why do you think the Westinghouse motor is junk?

 

[CamoDeafie]

Why do you think the Westinghouse motor is junk?

It might not be but the condition it's in.... pulley isn't moving at all, wire has been chewed through exposing the electric wiring itself. There's quite an amount of rust on the motor near the bottom.
Edit. It's basically not worth fixing it up and rewiring if I'm not gonna use it.

 

[made in china]

It might not be but the condition it's in.... pulley isn't moving at all, wire has been chewed through exposing the electric wiring itself. There's quite an amount of rust on the motor near the bottom.
Edit. It's basically not worth fixing it up and rewiring if I'm not gonna use it.

Don't throw it away, see if it could be sold. There are people who fix stuff like that.

They don't make them anymore!

 

[CamoDeafie]

Don't throw it away, see if it could be sold. There are people who fix stuff like that.

They don't make them anymore!

I do also have this in storage, the 1952 clutch motor for the Singer 31-20 along with its control switch.. that now has a servo motor

 

[JustShoot]

I do also have this in storage, the 1952 clutch motor for the Singer 31-20 along with its control switch.. that now has a servo motor


View attachment 1431837View attachment 1431836View attachment 1431835View attachment 1431834View attachment 1431833 View attachment 1431838

Nice... will take a little work and time cleaning and going threw it, but should sew ok when done .. I restored an old 1906, 29-4 seversl years ago, and still use it occasionally when it comes in handy . Old cast iron heads have a classic look.

 

[CamoDeafie]

Nice... will take a little work and time cleaning and going threw it, but should sew ok when done .. I restored an old 1906, 29-4 seversl years ago, and still use it occasionally when it comes in handy . Old cast iron heads have a classic look.

My primary Singer 31-20, has servo motor, and portable 15-91

 

[made in china]

My primary Singer 31-20, has servo motor, and portable 15-91 View attachment 1431909View attachment 1431910

Did you self-censor the background?

 

[CamoDeafie]

Did you self-censor the background?

Yes.

 

[CamoDeafie]

Gotta follow forum rules. If you want the uncensored close up of the artwork that I did not do... a PM is possible

 

[CamoDeafie]

Biggest reason I got the treadle setup.. so I can have a mobile sew shop that doesn't depend on having enough electricity and fuel

With the relative lightness of the Treadle base, and the head not being as heavy as newer self-oiling industrials; I think a lightweight cargo trailer, or a small camper/RV van would do me nicely... at least for a small shop that doesn't need a 5th wheel or a lot of relative space. My primary and others still will be in the apartment; but I can at least move some stuff to the trailer or the small RV. A Chinook type camper van might be very nice... and that could give me an excuse to have an 8-10 ft long by 3 ft wide butcher block counter top surface plus a fold down leaf for larger surface to do cutting and layouts on....

 

[CamoDeafie]

Woodworkers here... is there any reason I should not go for Hevea/Rubberwood material for the top? It is the most affordable "hardwood" butcher block/work bench top material I could find that isn't particle board/molded fiber board.

 

[moose]

My daughter went to a high school dance last Saturday night and I impressed the crap out of everyone (including myself) by making her a 7-panel dress.

When I grew up, all we had was a treadle machine and I learned how to sew by fixing my own clothes and then making my own camping gear (Frostline kits!).

Nice find!

 

[JustSomeGuy]

Woodworkers here... is there any reason I should not go for Hevea/Rubberwood material for the top? It is the most affordable "hardwood" butcher block/work bench top material I could find that isn't particle board/molded fiber board.

I usually use the birch butcher block slabs from Home Depot. Never had a problem with them.

HARDWOOD REFLECTIONS 4 ft. L x 25 in. D Unfinished Birch Solid Wood Butcher Block Countertop With Eased Edge BBCT1502550 - The Home Depot

Hardwood Reflections Birch Butcher Block Countertops are a stunning addition to any project. Birch is as appealing as it is practical. It is one of the most popular countertops throughout the world. The

www.homedepot.com

 

[CamoDeafie]

I usually use the birch butcher block slabs from Home Depot. Never had a problem with them.

HARDWOOD REFLECTIONS 4 ft. L x 25 in. D Unfinished Birch Solid Wood Butcher Block Countertop With Eased Edge BBCT1502550 - The Home Depot

Hardwood Reflections Birch Butcher Block Countertops are a stunning addition to any project. Birch is as appealing as it is practical. It is one of the most popular countertops throughout the world. The

www.homedepot.com

I'm cheap https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton...KSDkAwGl7oBtBf80yMhoC5ggQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is the specific one I'm looking at; if I can't find better deals locally through Habitat for Humanity ReStore or any of the places that sells "reclaimed lumber pieces". Although... it looks like I may not need such a thick butcher block bench top/table top for the treadle machine because it won't be holding up a clutch motor or any electric motor, unlike my primary 31-20.... picture from internet; not sure if that's 3/4"-1" thick wood? Definitely not as thick as my 1.5" thick butcher block type industrial table.

 

[JustShoot]

I'm cheap https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton...KSDkAwGl7oBtBf80yMhoC5ggQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is the specific one I'm looking at; if I can't find better deals locally through Habitat for Humanity ReStore or any of the places that sells "reclaimed lumber pieces". Although... it looks like I may not need such a thick butcher block bench top/table top for the treadle machine because it won't be holding up a clutch motor or any electric motor, unlike my primary 31-20.... picture from internet; not sure if that's 3/4"-1" thick wood? Definitely not as thick as my 1.5" thick butcher block type industrial table.
View attachment 1433346

The 'homrdepo' link you popped up, say's 1.5" think in specifications 50"x24" x 1.5" . Don't go less than 1.5" thick.
Link says.. it also just slightly larger than industry standard for flatbed machine Head table top. that is 48"x 20" x 1.5" thick . that is no biggie .

( IMHO )..I have had tables that were not a thick Lamination years back, I got rid of those tables and never looked back . Always go min. 1.5 "on thickness and if all possible stay with a quality ply-lamination .
Anything less 'Will' bow over several years . I even had a cylinder bed years back that I thought I could skimp-on and use 1.5" Thick pressure-pressed wood composite top . The top was left solid ( not inleted ) because the cylinder bed just mounted flat on-top, on the R-side . it only had a small narrow inlet for a pass-threw of drive belt . 10- years it was bowed significantly .
you need 1.5" thick good and strong, because after you router cut/inlet on a standard industrial top for Head and Pulley belt . Basically you are only left with only about 4" in front.. 6" to the R-side .. 9" backside, that is solid top area around the Head.
.

 

[Certaindeaf]

A solid core, flat wood door. Pretty cheap even new and free if you look around.

 

[CamoDeafie]

The 'homrdepo' link you popped up, say's 1.5" think in specifications 50"x24" x 1.5" . Don't go less than 1.5" thick.
Link says.. it also just slightly larger than industry standard for flatbed machine Head table top. that is 48"x 20" x 1.5" thick . that is no biggie .

( IMHO )..I have had tables that were not a thick Lamination years back, I got rid of those tables and never looked back . Always go min. 1.5 "on thickness and if all possible stay with a quality ply-lamination .
Anything less 'Will' bow over several years . I even had a cylinder bed years back that I thought I could skimp-on and use 1.5" Thick pressure-pressed wood composite top . The top was left solid ( not inleted ) because the cylinder bed just mounted flat on-top, on the R-side . it only had a small narrow inlet for a pass-threw of drive belt . 10- years it was bowed significantly .
you need 1.5" thick good and strong, because after you router cut/inlet on a standard industrial top for Head and Pulley belt . Basically you are only left with only about 4" in front.. 6" to the R-side .. 9" backside, that is solid top area around the Head.
.

Useful to know. Just that I've noticed the oldest of the 31-15 treadle bases have these relatively thin table tops... not sure what's up with that.. compared to the 31-20's motor table legs, the treadle base legs are quite a bit lighter than these.. clearly these treadle machines don't have heavy motors hanging down so that might be part of why they got away with the comparatively thin table tops? speaking of which...I picked up a Herman Miller Eames 48x24x1.25ish laminated hardwood tabletop from Habitat for Humanity's ReStore for $5. But I'll keep an eye out for 1.5" laminated hardwood butcher block type bench/countertops locally.. the Herman Miller table top should do nicely as a work bench top atop one of the many salvaged kitchen cabinets that I can find......which would be good for storing tools and sewing notions.