barrel crown question...

[v0lcom13sn0w]

is it necessary to crown before permanently attaching muzzle brake?

my plan is to buy a take off barrel, cut it to 16.5" and thread it for a muzzle brake that allows quick attachment for my suppressor.

ive read mixed opinions saying to do an 11degree crown to resist erosion. some guys say leave it square,

thoughts? experience?

@Velzey

Read More

 

[Velzey]

Yes crown prior to permanently attaching. It is possible to reach down inside thru the muzzle device and do a crown, but it's a pain.
I usually do a nice smooth 11 degree on everything.
Some ar barrel manufacturers these days are using an 82 degree countersink and calling it good. No outer edge break or anything.

 

[KKG]

In my opinion, a square crown is the best way to go.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

the barrel i am looking at actually is the same as the one i have, i want to keep the factory barrel just incase i wanna swap it out again.

its a savage 308 with a sporter countour. not enough meat there for 5/8x24 threads IIRC. i was thinking to thread it to 1/2x28 and buy the muzzle device that silencerco makes. its a 1/2x28 7.62 brake.

at 16.5" i wouldnt expect the weight of the silencer (13oz) to weigh down the barrel too much. maybe just change my POI without the can on.

if its consistant with the can ON i dont care.

 

[KKG]

I'm not much of a rifle builder but those that I have done or had done have all been of the square crown style. It has always worked well for me. I have re-barreled or re-crowned several handguns and all have used the square crown and they have been pretty much tack drivers.

 

[titsonritz]

Why perm attach a muzzle device on a barrel that is +16 inch? Just use Rocksett, many suppressor manufacturers do just that.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

Why perm attach a muzzle device on a barrel that is +16 inch? Just use Rocksett, many suppressor manufacturers do just that.

thank you. i will. i think what i meant was attach it with no intention of taking it back off. i dont want it welded on

 

[titsonritz]

Gotcha

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

i actually just measured my barrel. at 16.5" the OD is .649 and about a 1/2" back its .653

would be iffy to thread it at 5/8x24, eh?

not much of a shoulder there. thats why i was thinking 1/2x28


9/16x24 isnt out of the question either, i just dont have the tooling for it yet. i have the stuff for 5/8x24 and 1/2x28

 

[malakajim]

What's the reasoning for a muzzle brake and a suppressor? I've heard it mentioned before, but can't figure out the logistics.

 

[jbett98]

The muzzle break helps with erosion of the first baffles, unlike a flash suppressor which allows all the hot gasses directly against the 1st baffle.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

The muzzle break helps with erosion of the first baffles, unlike a flash suppressor which allows all the hot gasses directly against the 1st baffle.

this

 

[malakajim]

OK, so the brake and flash suppressor both vent gasses out prior to the can. Wouldn't this be counter productive to having a can in the first place?

 

[Member 34319]

OK, so the brake and flash suppressor both vent gasses out prior to the can. Wouldn't this be counter productive to having a can in the first place?

It's more of a sacrifice than anything to do with how the gases move. At any length superheated particulates exit the muzzle at extreme velocities, sandblasting whatever it comes into contact with. If it's a brake, those particles hit the baffles of it, vs a flash hider where the first thing those particle will hit is the blast baffle in your silencer. IE, it helps the investment you waited so long for, and went through all the paperwork for, last longer.

Baffle erosion is a real thing.

Which would you rather have?

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

OK, so the brake and flash suppressor both vent gasses out prior to the can. Wouldn't this be counter productive to having a can in the first place?

brake goes into the can

 

[malakajim]

brake goes into the can

A-ha. I see now. I didn't know the muzzle devices fit inside the silencer. Or rather, the silencer threads over them.

Thanks for the info and sorry to the op for going off topic.

 

[jbett98]

The muzzle break vents some of the gasses sideways and that helps reduce erosion, but it's the suppressor jobs to slow down the super heated gasses before they exit and run into the cooler air outside the can, thus reducing the decibels.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

A-ha. I see now. I didn't know the muzzle devices fit inside the silencer. Or rather, the silencer threads over them.

Thanks for the info and sorry to the op for going off topic.

its all good! off topic is OK with me!

yes, so on my silencerco hybrid silencer i have what is called an ASR mount. it allows all of my threaded rifles with a comptible (asr) brake to keep the brake on the gun and just slip the suppressor over it and quickly tighten it down.

pretty cool; rather than how i was doing it. i was removing the brake and putting the suppressor on directly to the barrel threads

 

[Ura-Ki]

So, I have a question here, This ASR mount/brake, does it index to a beveled crown (11 deg?) or does it butt up flush?
Not to question our resident 'Smith, but depending on the unit being installed, if there is any gap, I.E. a crown, it creates a mini blast chamber and will erode the crown and back side of the unit installed same as the baffles inside the suppressor! Ever pulled the brake off a well used AR, you'll see exactly the same effect! Now, If the break leaves the crown fully exposed, that's different, and that's when you WANT a true crown, just make sure there isn't a short bit of thread or extra material between the crown and the beginnings of the brake, other wise your going to see the same erosion in that part of the brake and it can effect the accuracy same as a bad crown! It really sets off my OCD to see ill fitted brakes or flash suppressors, especially when the crown isn't addressed!

 

[11Charlie]

Well since I am a visual person someone is going to have to show me what the hell your talking about when I get my suppressor!