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never mind, I saw the matrix precision rail cutter says it fits 2011 80% frames as well. Limited-10 has a 4 month wait, which is good so I dont order one and finish the 5 other build projects I have. :)
 
never mind, I saw the matrix precision rail cutter says it fits 2011 80% frames as well. Limited-10 has a 4 month wait, which is good so I dont order one and finish the 5 other build projects I have. :)


yeah, i just saw that when i went back to figure out which jig/lower set i had bought, lol, maybe i should order my steel frame now so it'll get here by 2017. lol

good to know the parts are compatible, it seems like they would be, just couldn't say so for sure.
you *NEED* a 2011 man,shut up those 1911 haters going on about low capacity. lol
 
clark 460 rowland kit is quite nice. Cant wait for the rest of the parts to show up IMG_3102.JPG
 
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I have used the Stealtharms jig. I have one. I had problems with the cutter not staying in place. I had to hand finish the rails with a small flat file. Then the cutter for the barrel did not cut very well. I ended up using a dremmel sanding tube. This tool looks like it will work if the cutters stay in place.
 
Started working on the deck today. about 30 minutes of filing got me about 1/3 of the way there. This one is going to take a while

hndQbF1.jpg

This surface needs to be flat so I about about 0.02 to go
j4d53kH.jpg
 
The stealth kit cuts the rails in steel. It actually does not seem that much harder than the aluminum. Here is an idea was 2 passes look like. I adjust the depth by turning the knob. It cuts less than a thousands off for each knob turn. It takes about 5-10 passes with the cutter before it feels smooth. so about 100 knob turns to get to 0.061 inches of debth and 5-10 passes per knob turn gives you an idea of the work needed.

 
ugg, broke the edge off the rail cutting bit. only had. 0.01 to go. make sure you LIFT when pulling the cutter backwards.

by the way, 460 rowland chamber gauge rental here (as well as a bunch of other rentals for making guns)
<broken link removed>
 
If that is all the farther you have to go. I used a small 6" flat file on it's side to finish mine. You know the routine....file and fit!

I dont have a file that would work and I dont quite trust my hands to be steady enough. So I ordered another bit since Im sure I will use the kit again.

Fitting the match barrel. A barrel alignment tool is very handy for this. The hood on the back of the barrel is a little too wide on purpose so that it can be filed for a perfect fit with the slide. Without the alignment tool you could file the hood so that they barrel is rotated enough to not hook up well with the barrel link

Alignment tool holding the barrel in position
ZfUiTSq.jpg

Then check how the barrel hood is aligned to the slide. The bottom already looks pretty good but the top where the red line is will need some filing

xSpnFyr.jpg


http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...1911-auto-barrel-alignment-block-prod369.aspx

(by the way, this tool is $28 with a C&R dealer discount, not the $39.95 listed here)
 
Next tool is the barrel alignment gauge. The barrel hood is too long in a matched barrel. So the barrel does not go far enough back to allow it to lift up and engage the lugs on the barrel to the lugs in the slide. You file off the back of the barrel hood until it can lift and engage. It was about .01 in for me. Once it engages, this tool confirms the firing pin hole is center in the barrel.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ools/1911-barrel-alignment-gauge-prod906.aspx

if you did it right, the tip of the tool will slide into the firing pin hole on the slide indicating it is center.

not difficult, just takes patience. File a tiny bit, check fit, file a tiny bit, check fit.

 
Finished the rails. 3/3 so far It probably took twice as long with the steel frame. Lots of filing and then fit checking. Probably put it in and out of the jig 50 times.

This is just finishing with the 800 grit lapping compound. Just starting to move freely

 

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