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If you have some spare wood scrape from the grips laying around. Maybe try the burn method to pull out the grain and then you could sand down to get the light and the dark of the wood.

I have plenty of spare wood and they only take about 30 minutes to sand out. Tried some of my Mosin stain (no finish) These LED lights arent really that great for the color either

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I like the lighter grips just because I can see some really cool vertical grains, but you got to get the grains to pop more. Just my option on if it was my build, wish it was , looks awesome. Great Job Bolus.

I have plenty of spare wood and they only take about 30 minutes to sand out. Tried some of my Mosin stain (no finish) These LED lights arent really that great for the color either

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not done yet. functional except for grip safety which is sticking. More filing to do

The clark kit has to be assembled backwards like a glock, the spring goes in the rear after the barrel nut is seated. I tell you what, pushing a 20 lbs spring in backwards and then holding it in place with one hand while trying to get the slide on the frame was challenging. I dont look forward to cleaning this guy much.

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image.jpeg Hi all. Wish I had found this when I started doing 1911's. Have done 4 now, one steel that became a memorial gun for my gf that passed away in December, and 3 aluminum. The steel frame came from 1911buiders.com, one from Stealth, and 2 from hell fire armory, with a third on the way.
 
Wow, those are very nice! how did you do the gold finish?
Sorry to hear about you GF Very nice tribute to her

The tribute gun was engraved by Tony Frost out of Lafayette. He was her favorite local artist and his work kept her smiling through the worst of her days fighting Multiple Myeloma. The slide and frame are plated in Black Krome (Caswell) and the engraving/grooves are plated in 24Kt gold.
I first plated the entire slide in 24kt gold, then filled in with nail polish and plated the Black Krome.

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I'm currently working on etching to do the final grips.

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by the way, On the Clark 460 Rowland kit, if you get the match version, the compensator arrives detached. I called and asked how they lock it to the barrel and they said Locktite 680 (the green stuff stronger than red). No one carries this locally and this information is not in the build manual that comes with the kit
 
by the way, On the Clark 460 Rowland kit, if you get the match version, the compensator arrives detached. I called and asked how they lock it to the barrel and they said Locktite 680 (the green stuff stronger than red). No one carries this locally and this information is not in the build manual that comes with the kit

Several Hobby shops sell the green Locktite 680. Thats where I always find it. Hall Tool in Portland is also another place. Napa auto can usually get it as well as Baxter's auto parts! Just to let you know, Once you use green locktite, you have to use a heat gun or torch to release it!
 
holy poopballs. I somehow got some locktite between the barrel and barrel nut. I got lucky and noticed it wasnt moving only 30 minutes into letting the compensator set (permanently attaching the compensator results in a permanently trapped barrel nut in this kit). I still had to pound the barrel nut loose with a rubber mallet. 30 minutes is 50% cured so I got lucky. be careful with your industrial strength locktite folks!
 
Took advantage of the sunlight for a pic.
Color spectrum of grips. Bloodwood, stained mahogany, mahogany, rosewood, walnut and black walnut and leopard wood on the gun
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And a black walnut AR grip
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If you ever wanted really exotic hard wood for grips and such, Gilmer hardwoods in west Portland out by the old Montgomery Wards building has some awesome woods at decent prices. Check them out!

I went by Gilmer yesterday. that will be a fun place to visit. First thing that caught my eye was some snakewood. Then found out it was a $145 piece of snakewood. so it went back on the shelf
https://www.gilmerwood.com/items.php?CID=36

But they have a bin for cut off bits of wood from making fret boards that are perfect thickness for making grips. so I got a variety to try.

African blackwood is pretty amazing. Its dense and waxy so it is more like working with plastic. This is just sanded without any finish. from the $5 bin

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I went by Gilmer yesterday. that will be a fun place to visit. First thing that caught my eye was some snakewood. Then found out it was a $145 piece of snakewood. so it went back on the shelf
https://www.gilmerwood.com/items.php?CID=36

But they have a bin for cut off bits of wood from making fret boards that are perfect thickness for making grips. so I got a variety to try.

African blackwood is pretty amazing. Its dense and waxy so it is more like working with plastic. This is just sanded without any finish. from the $5 bin

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Just curious, how are you shaping those? Do you have a jig of some kind? What tools are you using? I really like the different grips you've been making and I may want to try and tackle that myself. I've got some zebrawood, purpleheart and some nice maple I'd like to try.
 

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