Anodizing an 80% lower

kevinv · Nov 5, 2020

Assuming I could find a place that could do it, does it make any difference if the lower was already anodized before I milled it or is it better to just be raw aluminum? I'm thinking they may need to anodize the whole thing anyway so there's no point to getting a lower already anodized. I don't know how the anodize process is done.

bolus · Nov 5, 2020

It is easy to complete an 80% without messing up the external finish. But if you want the pocket and pin holes anodized after finishing it then get a raw metal one to start. Its going to cost more to remove the finish and then re-apply after you are done.

And if you are ok with life threatening levels of electricity and sulfuric acid, you can do it at home!

turbo_vanner · Nov 5, 2020

New Frontier Armory will do it for $15 plus shipping. Matte Black Hard-Coat Anodizing Service - New Frontier Armory

I've had it done, and they do a great job. You just have to engrave your name, city, state, model and serial into it for legal reasons. That is easy for me, so it wasn't an issue, might be for some.

coop44 · Nov 5, 2020

Or you could do it at home, I think warpig has an article on it

Here you go: Anodizing at Home - WARPIG

It's not difficult or expensive

kevinv · Nov 5, 2020

turbo_vanner said:
New Frontier Armory will do it for $15 plus shipping. Matte Black Hard-Coat Anodizing Service - New Frontier Armory

I've had it done, and they do a great job. You just have to engrave your name, city, state, model and serial into it for legal reasons. That is easy for me, so it wasn't an issue, might be for some.

That may be another problem. The point of doing this is so I don't have to register it. I don't know if saying a serial number needs to be engraved implies it also gets registered. If no place would anodize it without it ending up being registered, then I would likely buy an already anodized one and just live with it that way. I guess I need to find places that do anodizing, ask them what their requirements are, and go from there. Thanks.

Koda · Nov 5, 2020

I wonder if one could just duracoat the exposed pocket and pin holes?

...and wouldnt it be possible to just put a thin coat of grease on the exposed pocket surfaces and keep the pin holes lightly lubed and clean and call it good? I cant imagine exposing any home built to any conditions for any length of time that would oxidize the exposed surfaces before you could maintenance them again.

Rkangel · Nov 5, 2020

Leaving the pocket bare isn't that big an issue. Aluminum will form an oxide layer naturally.
I've done home anodizing as well. With care it can be done safely. It is a detailed process from prep, to anodizing, to dying. You are dealing with acid, fumes, and electricity. Safety and PPE is a must. If you aren't detail oriented consider other options. If you are and want to try your hand at anodizing, do your research. The better prepared you are the better results you will get. I would also recommend anodizing dyes (you can get them from Amazon) rather than RIT clothing dye.

Sbarton · Nov 5, 2020

I've "heard" of a number of them left raw, they say that they work just fine that way!

turbo_vanner · Nov 5, 2020

kevinv said:
That may be another problem. The point of doing this is so I don't have to register it. I don't know if saying a serial number needs to be engraved implies it also gets registered. If no place would anodize it without it ending up being registered, then I would likely buy an already anodized one and just live with it that way. I guess I need to find places that do anodizing, ask them what their requirements are, and go from there. Thanks.

you don't really 'register' it, New Frontier just needs the makers info, I'm assuming for their paperwork or log book of what they serviced. Whether or not that book or record could wind up in law enforcement hands, I do not know.

I have found KG gunkote to be pretty easy to do (compared to cerakote or duracoat) if you have a way to sandblast the lower. I also had Lucky Sporting Goods out in Banks do up a lower in FDE. Matched my Aero upper perfectly.

HB of CJ · Nov 5, 2020

Don't laugh too hard but Krylon Semi Gloss Black spray can paint over the entire build works fine. I do not know if the current or today's cleaning solvents will affect the painted finish. A good cheap way of matching the receivers or for that matter the entire rifle.

Other colors work fine also. Just be sure where exactly you place your rifle in the brown grass or green foliage or you may never find it again without a good metal detector. Please do not ask me how I know this to be true. Embarrassing to say the least. Duhh.

Grizzly_A · Dec 16, 2020

Agreed! It's a lot easier and less expensive to get a can of brownells alumahyde or krylon and paint it. Or oil the pocket walls and you'll be fine. Since the gun is gas driven, part of the normal service is to clean the FCG pocket with solvent and such to get out powder blowback, so.....if you take care of your gun, you shouldn't have any issues.
If you leave it raw for 30 years, it's going to oxidize and pit but it still probably wouldn't compromise the integrity of the lower.

anodizing isn't THAT toxic, but you should still take precautions with storage and usage.

MfnLeadFarmer · Dec 16, 2020

Grizzly_A said:
Agreed! It's a lot easier and less expensive to get a can of brownells alumahyde or krylon and paint it. Or oil the pocket walls and you'll be fine. Since the gun is gas driven, part of the normal service is to clean the FCG pocket with solvent and such to get out powder blowback, so.....if you take care of your gun, you shouldn't have any issues.
If you leave it raw for 30 years, it's going to oxidize and pit but it still probably wouldn't compromise the integrity of the lower.

anodizing isn't THAT toxic, but you should still take precautions with storage and usage.

I use Brownells allumahyde 2 on 80's all of the time. 2 coats baked in the oven at 220 for 3 hours is tougher than duracoat and cerakote.