Build Thread 6.5 cm or .308 bolt rifle on a chassis

[Kruel J]

Any suggestions where I'd get my hands on all of these choices? I don't know anyone personally who has them

I grabbed my RPR after shooting a buddy's. Finding a group to line them all up and let you choose what you like is a tough nut to crack brother.

 

[Jcon268]

Barrel, optics, and trigger are the three keys to accuracy when it comes to the gun. If you have quality in those, the rest is on you.

Have you done much long range before? If not, maybe start with something like a tikka T3 or savage 10 and go from there. I'm not sure the added cost of chassis and bedding will get you much if your new to the game. Where as a quality scope, ammo, and good rifle will get you 90% or more of what your after.

Very little past 200 yards. I'm looking at a Viper PST 5-25x or something along those lines

 

[B5Ben]

I grabbed my RPR after shooting a buddy's. Finding a group to line them all up and let you choose what you like is a tough nut to crack brother.

And even then it would be a difficult choice.

 

[Kruel J]

Very little past 200 yards. I'm looking at a Viper PST 5-25x or something along those lines

Learn your rifle and optics.

OK, I'll put it out there. When I was first learning to shoot long distance, I dialed up my elevation on my scope counting each full mil as a tenth. Dummy move for sure. I saw 1, then two and in my head was waiting for 10 to figure 1 mil. Yet my scope didn't graduate up to 10 on the turret.I was nervous and trying to remember everything.

Long distance shooting isn't just putting the crosshairs on the target and breathing and squeezing.

 

[B5Ben]

Very little past 200 yards. I'm looking at a Viper PST 5-25x or something along those lines

Do you have any rifles now that will shoot 500 yards? If so I would work with that and learn/gain experience. It will transfer once you figure out what you want. Then what you thought you wanted and would be happy with for a while just gets left behind in the safe for some other shiny new something.

 

[Jcon268]

Tikka T3 seems to have what I'm looking

Do you have any rifles now that will shoot 500 yards? If so I would work with that and learn/gain experience. It will transfer once you figure out what you want. Then what you thought you wanted and would be happy with for a while just gets left behind in the safe for some other shiny new something.

My AR in 5.56 will shoot 500 yards but with my skill, I'm probably going to be pretty inconsistent that far out. Like I said, 200 is my comfort zone..past that my shooting is pretty average

 

[B5Ben]

I'm not sure I would start shooting the AR at 500 unless your shooting heavies but you could start at 100 or 200 with standard 55/62 gr ammo and work up from there. Get the practice in and do it shooting cheaper ammo on something you already have while building your skills. You could also change your AR to a 6.5 Grendel and get 500 or more easily. Ammo is more but there's a trade off. Many ways to go, just gotta figure out what you want to do and how to get there.

There are a few rifles in the classifieds that might get you going. I also like budsgunshop and grabagun as online sources but there are tons out there.

WTS/WTT OR - OD Green FN Patrol Bolt Rifle (PBR) 20" .308

<broken link removed>

WTS WA - Savage 10PC .308

 

[Swiss_Cheeze]

This is mine for reference:

RPR in .308
Burris PEPR lapped and leveled.
Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50mm with 30mm tube and mil/mil

Not shown:
Vortex bubble level
Harris Bipod upgrade.

View attachment 428849

Mighty nice setup. Do you even need a spoting scope? Reminds me of that scope Clint had in the good, the bad, & the ugly. Almost the same length as his barrel.

 

[P7M13]

I've gone down the custom bolt gun 2x, pictures of them follow.
Some things I learned while doing it:

• If you intend to keep everything DIY, study and learn, and then do it some more. It helps to have access to a machine shop, if you're capable.
• Research and plan. Check out all the parts you want to use, see them in person, hold them. Once you've done that selection process, you can sit and wait for sales / blems / used sales.
  
• Action / receiver : As you have mentioned, you want to do it a piece at a time. Given that, you want to get something that maximizes your options. It all starts with receiver/action. The two action choices I'd recommend are Savage or Remington. Having done both, I prefer Remington. You can buy used rifles in either and cannibalize them, or buy brand new actions (Midway / Gun Shop in Idaho Falls / etc.)
  • Savage Pro
    • Easy to change barrels with their barrel nut design;
    • Very simple action;
    • A fair amount of aftermarket stocks and chassis you can drop one into.
    • Better stock trigger than the Remington, though YMMV.
    • The used rifles and receivers are usually cheaper than Rem.
  • Savage Con
    • The bolt is not as good as a Remy.
    • The ejector pin often gets jammed.
    • The extractor is lame, and if you run hot loads, it often will not extract.
    • The trigger sucks. Then again, YMMV.
      
    • They changed their design multiple times over the years, moving the bolt release mechanism.
  • Remington Pro
    • Everyone, and I mean everyone, makes aftermarket products for Remington (a little hyperbole here.)
    • Better choice of aftermarket triggers, much better choice of chassis manufacturers
      
    • Remage option allows you to DIY barrel install
    • Better ejector / better extractor
  • Remington Con
    • Their trigger sucks
    • If doing Remage, there are fewer barrel manufacturer options than Savage. (really, not much of a con)
  • If I build a completely custom rifle in the future, I'll probably get a Montana Rifle Company action (Remington clone). While I'm right handed, I now shoot as a lefty. You can specify the bolt and eject sides with MRC, and their actions are beautiful.
• Barrel : Lots of great manufacturers out there. I've purchased two from McGowen. Recommend you check out other custom builds, heft them, and get a feel. If you're just going to be a strictly bench rifle, get a varmint or straight tube and be done with it. However, if you ever intend to carry that rifle, then the balance is critical, and a varmint or straight barrel will feel like holding a sledgehammer straight out.
  Also make sure you are building with a barrel that will handle the bullets you like. For example, I run 1:8.5 twist on my 7LRM below, which allows me to shoot the 190gr ELD or 185gr Cauteruico bullets.
  
• Chassis : In the picture below, my two rifles are bedded to MDT Chassis: LSS-XL and MDT21. Though the LSS-XL is lighter by ~1.5lbs (a lot when you carry the thing in the field), the ergonomics on it SUCK. I went with a slightly lighter barrel and heavier chassis with the MDT21, and have a much better balanced rifle that is 2# lighter than the 338 Edge.
  
  
• Cartridge : The Savage shown below in 308 is a tack driver. I didn't want to deal with 6.5CM at all - instead I have a 7mm-08 in a mountain rifle (Ruger Hawkeye), and built a 7mm-08 AR10. I would also consider 260 Rem, 6.5x47 Lapua, and am toying with converting my Vanguard from 7 Rem Mag to a 6.5x55 Swede like @Ura-Ki built. The two customs below come in calibers that you cannot buy, so I roll my own. It's easy enough. I had a Savage 110BA in 3389 LM. Sweet, beastially heavy rifle, laser accuracy. Because of the case size, the 338LM requires the XL Magnum actions from Remy or Savage, which drive costs up. That's why I built an Edge - the poor man's 338LM, identical ballistics.
  If you're going with COTS calibers like 308 or 6.5CM, you'll probably be happy with the ammo offerings. There are advantages to reloading: you build the bullet that best matches your rifle's harmonics, you save boatloads of money and consequently can shoot a whole lot more, which is where you build your skills. Though I'm finding great prices on bullets and powder that has brought my loading costs down even more, a great idea of cost per round when you reload is in this thread : Beginners Guide to Reloading Costs (most cost effective rounds you have)

I highly recommend building the rifle YOU want. There's huge satisfaction in it.
[edit to add] In terms of cost, the 338 Edge was ~$1,300 to build, the 7mm LRM was $1,500. I included the cost of what I paid for the donor rifles (the 338 Edge was originally a 7 Rem Mag, and the 7LRM was originally a 300 RUM). The original Rem was $550, and the original Savage 116 was $300.

 

[Ura-Ki]

Personally, if I were to choose a build from a bare action, I would consider ether a Panda, or for a more conventional Mauser commrcial action. Barrels are every where, and the price point is the same as a Remmy. They are also very easy to change. There are a number of advantages to bolty, especially the Panda, sort of a Remmy with a lot of custom options like right bolt, left port, and a Savage bolt, or a Remington, with safety options on the bolt, or the trigger. The Mauser has the advantages of the claw extractor which has all kinds of advantages, especially if you plan to build a repeter. They also have several trigger options, and safety options. For an XL magnum, you want ether a CZ, or a Comercial Mauser ( Doumolien) Large magnum action. Front there, any combo is available, and you really have options then! My current build ( on hold) is a large Mauser Comercial Magnum in .500 Jeffries! It's a beast, but also one of the strongest actions available!

 

[slimmer13]

The Sniper 101 videos on the ol YouTube are a great resource as well.

 

[B5Ben]

I've gone down the custom bolt gun 2x, pictures of them follow.
Some things I learned while doing it:

• If you intend to keep everything DIY, study and learn, and then do it some more. It helps to have access to a machine shop, if you're capable.
• Research and plan. Check out all the parts you want to use, see them in person, hold them. Once you've done that selection process, you can sit and wait for sales / blems / used sales.
  
• Action / receiver : As you have mentioned, you want to do it a piece at a time. Given that, you want to get something that maximizes your options. It all starts with receiver/action. The two action choices I'd recommend are Savage or Remington. Having done both, I prefer Remington. You can buy used rifles in either and cannibalize them, or buy brand new actions (Midway / Gun Shop in Idaho Falls / etc.)
  • Savage Pro
    • Easy to change barrels with their barrel nut design;
    • Very simple action;
    • A fair amount of aftermarket stocks and chassis you can drop one into.
    • Better stock trigger than the Remington, though YMMV.
    • The used rifles and receivers are usually cheaper than Rem.
  • Savage Con
    • The bolt is not as good as a Remy.
    • The ejector pin often gets jammed.
    • The extractor is lame, and if you run hot loads, it often will not extract.
    • The trigger sucks. Then again, YMMV.
      
    • They changed their design multiple times over the years, moving the bolt release mechanism.
  • Remington Pro
    • Everyone, and I mean everyone, makes aftermarket products for Remington (a little hyperbole here.)
    • Better choice of aftermarket triggers, much better choice of chassis manufacturers
      
    • Remage option allows you to DIY barrel install
    • Better ejector / better extractor
  • Remington Con
    • Their trigger sucks
    • If doing Remage, there are fewer barrel manufacturer options than Savage. (really, not much of a con)
  • If I build a completely custom rifle in the future, I'll probably get a Montana Rifle Company action (Remington clone). While I'm right handed, I now shoot as a lefty. You can specify the bolt and eject sides with MRC, and their actions are beautiful.
• Barrel : Lots of great manufacturers out there. I've purchased two from McGowen. Recommend you check out other custom builds, heft them, and get a feel. If you're just going to be a strictly bench rifle, get a varmint or straight tube and be done with it. However, if you ever intend to carry that rifle, then the balance is critical, and a varmint or straight barrel will feel like holding a sledgehammer straight out.
  Also make sure you are building with a barrel that will handle the bullets you like. For example, I run 1:8.5 twist on my 7LRM below, which allows me to shoot the 190gr ELD or 185gr Cauteruico bullets.
  
• Chassis : In the picture below, my two rifles are bedded to MDT Chassis: LSS-XL and MDT21. Though the LSS-XL is lighter by ~1.5lbs (a lot when you carry the thing in the field), the ergonomics on it SUCK. I went with a slightly lighter barrel and heavier chassis with the MDT21, and have a much better balanced rifle that is 2# lighter than the 338 Edge.
  
  
• Cartridge : The Savage shown below in 308 is a tack driver. I didn't want to deal with 6.5CM at all - instead I have a 7mm-08 in a mountain rifle (Ruger Hawkeye), and built a 7mm-08 AR10. I would also consider 260 Rem, 6.5x47 Lapua, and am toying with converting my Vanguard from 7 Rem Mag to a 6.5x55 Swede like @Ura-Ki built. The two customs below come in calibers that you cannot buy, so I roll my own. It's easy enough. I had a Savage 110BA in 3389 LM. Sweet, beastially heavy rifle, laser accuracy. Because of the case size, the 338LM requires the XL Magnum actions from Remy or Savage, which drive costs up. That's why I built an Edge - the poor man's 338LM, identical ballistics.
  If you're going with COTS calibers like 308 or 6.5CM, you'll probably be happy with the ammo offerings. There are advantages to reloading: you build the bullet that best matches your rifle's harmonics, you save boatloads of money and consequently can shoot a whole lot more, which is where you build your skills. Though I'm finding great prices on bullets and powder that has brought my loading costs down even more, a great idea of cost per round when you reload is in this thread : Beginners Guide to Reloading Costs (most cost effective rounds you have)

I highly recommend building the rifle YOU want. There's huge satisfaction in it.
[edit to add] In terms of cost, the 338 Edge was ~$1,300 to build, the 7mm LRM was $1,500. I included the cost of what I paid for the donor rifles (the 338 Edge was originally a 7 Rem Mag, and the 7LRM was originally a 300 RUM). The original Rem was $550, and the original Savage 116 was $300.

View attachment 428874

That is a ton of useful info for any future bolt gun builds! Thanks!

 

[P7M13]

+1 for the CZ Large ring Mauser action!
Requires a gunsmith, but you cannot get any better, IMO. Plus, it's only ~ $600.

Personally, if I were to choose a build from a bare action, I would consider ether a Panda, or for a more conventional Mauser commrcial action. Barrels are every where, and the price point is the same as a Remmy. They are also very easy to change. There are a number of advantages to bolty, especially the Panda, sort of a Remmy with a lot of custom options like right bolt, left port, and a Savage bolt, or a Remington, with safety options on the bolt, or the trigger. The Mauser has the advantages of the claw extractor which has all kinds of advantages, especially if you plan to build a repeter. They also have several trigger options, and safety options. For an XL magnum, you want ether a CZ, or a Comercial Mauser ( Doumolien) Large magnum action. Front there, any combo is available, and you really have options then! My current build ( on hold) is a large Mauser Comercial Magnum in .500 Jeffries! It's a beast, but also one of the strongest actions available!

 

[Jcon268]

Would something like this be a decent starting pointing? Assuming the scope is junk, is $459 a reasonable price to entry? Upgrade later?

 

[Jcon268]

This is what I'm shooting now. Within 200 yards it is fairly accurate and the barrel is capable of 1 moa with match grade ammo. I' wanting to start practicing 2 to 3 times that distance.. and I prefer the idea of a bolt gun for that task.

 

[Argonaut]

The Military, FBI and countless professional organizations still use Remington 700's and Leupold Glass of some flavor. I have an original M24 Kit and a left hand 700P. Neither look particularly sexy but that is not there purpose. Nobody fawns over them at the range but they have NEVER been outshot. My 700P came from the factory with a 40XB trigger (set to 1/4 lb) an aluminum bedded Kevlar H&S stock, fluted carbine barrel. It was like 1200.00. I have installed a Harris bipod and Leupold DD mounts with a Leupold tactical scope I bought from a SWAT team in the east. The point of impact has never changed from first sight in. My M24 kit was only available to military members or Vets to buy. It was an actual military sniper kit traded back to Remington, rebuilt and sold to Veterans or active military only. It cost the govt in the range of 10,000 new 20 years ago. I paid 2800 as a complete weapon system. I like other guns, my buddies Bageria is quite accurate but my Steyr carbine will shoot with it, my brothers Trig in 338 is tremendous but not any more impressive than my old Weatherby 378's. The FBI snipers are using Remington 700's in 7mm mag these days. I suppose if you are trying to draw a crowd at the range, all this visual eyewash is fine but you could have the same effect wearing purple checkered pants.

 

[slimmer13]

The Military, FBI and countless professional organizations still use Remington 700's and Leupold Glass of some flavor. I have an original M24 Kit and a left hand 700P. Neither look particularly sexy but that is not there purpose. Nobody fawns over them at the range but they have NEVER been outshot. My 700P came from the factory with a 40XB trigger (set to 1/4 lb) an aluminum bedded Kevlar H&S stock, fluted carbine barrel. It was like 1200.00. I have installed a Harris bipod and Leupold DD mounts with a Leupold tactical scope I bought from a SWAT team in the east. The point of impact has never changed from first sight in. My M24 kit was only available to military members or Vets to buy. It was an actual military sniper kit traded back to Remington, rebuilt and sold to Veterans or active military only. It cost the govt in the range of 10,000 new 20 years ago. I paid 2800 as a complete weapon system. I like other guns, my buddies Bageria is quite accurate but my Steyr carbine will shoot with it, my brothers Trig in 338 is tremendous but not any more impressive than my old Weatherby 378's. The FBI snipers are using Remington 700's in 7mm mag these days. I suppose if you are trying to draw a crowd at the range, all this visual eyewash is fine but you could have the same effect wearing purple checkered pants.

My advice is to look at what the match and competition world is using rather than military/swat.

To much BS in their decision making processes.

 

[Jcon268]

The Military, FBI and countless professional organizations still use Remington 700's and Leupold Glass of some flavor. I have an original M24 Kit and a left hand 700P. Neither look particularly sexy but that is not there purpose. Nobody fawns over them at the range but they have NEVER been outshot. My 700P came from the factory with a 40XB trigger (set to 1/4 lb) an aluminum bedded Kevlar H&S stock, fluted carbine barrel. It was like 1200.00. I have installed a Harris bipod and Leupold DD mounts with a Leupold tactical scope I bought from a SWAT team in the east. The point of impact has never changed from first sight in. My M24 kit was only available to military members or Vets to buy. It was an actual military sniper kit traded back to Remington, rebuilt and sold to Veterans or active military only. It cost the govt in the range of 10,000 new 20 years ago. I paid 2800 as a complete weapon system. I like other guns, my buddies Bageria is quite accurate but my Steyr carbine will shoot with it, my brothers Trig in 338 is tremendous but not any more impressive than my old Weatherby 378's. The FBI snipers are using Remington 700's in 7mm mag these days. I suppose if you are trying to draw a crowd at the range, all this visual eyewash is fine but you could have the same effect wearing purple checkered pants.

My AR15 has enough for looks I'm not after looks on my bolt gun. What I am after is something that will be relatively comfortable to shoot, and reliable. Smooth bolt action with no hangups. Some people believe in the philosophy that new shooters should start with cheaper equipment and learn to....well, shoot...and not rely on the equipment. I am of the opinion that new shooters should have reliable equipment to know that if a mistake is made, they will be sure it was no fault of the equipment. If that means buying a 700, then that's what I'll buy. I'm only leary of the possibility of buying something that corners were cut in production to drive cost down leaving for a rougher time learning at the range..

 

[Argonaut]

My advice is to look at what the match and competition world is using rather than military/swat.

To much BS in their decision making processes.

Do you think Jerry Miclack doesn't get paid to shoot S&W's? We were given Beretta's to shoot for free when I was on the USAF trap team. I never liked them after seeing them shoot loose but lots of guys did. Top shooters are totally sponsored by companies that want there products promoted.

 

[B5Ben]

Some people believe in the philosophy that new shooters should start with cheaper equipment and learn to....well, shoot...and not rely on the equipment. I am of the opinion that new shooters should have reliable equipment to know that if a mistake is made, they will be sure it was no fault of the equipment. If that means buying a 700, then that's what I'll buy. I'm only leary of the possibility of buying something that corners were cut in production to drive cost down leaving for a rougher time learning at the range..

If you go with a modern rifle, like Tikka, Savage, Ruger, or Rem, they have all cut a few corners they deemed not needed to end with a quality product relative to a certain price point. These aren't GA precision or Montana rifles. They do however create a solid foundation to which someone can learn and build on.

I was in a gun shop at lunch today and saw several nice rifles from the makers listed above in the $350-$600 range that would do their part and more. Some new and some used but barely. They all needed optics and ammo but you plan on doing that anyway. Many used rifles rarely see more than a few hundred rounds through them before they are traded off for something different. I've done it here and there too. Walk into a few shops that have a variety of new and used rifles and see what you can find. Prices can be soft on the used market as well right now. Again, chances are your taste and needs will change over time and you will be back to looking at other things that catch your eye.