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Looking to put together a bolt rifle on a chassis for an intro into long range target shooting (500 to 1,000 yds). Not really a hunter so won't be treking with this rifle but would like to keep it reasonably light weight and am hoping to use it to build some skills for possible competitive shooting one day. I'm trying to keep the whole thing minus optics at or under $1,200. This may be tight for a budget but I've got other financial obligations and will need to buy ammo! Any suggestions? Seems Rem 700 and Tikka T3 are possible options.

I also don't mind buying something used from a reputable source
 
Heavy, but for target shooting that's a plus. Also you get a lot more modularity and options for grips and stocks.

I did a RAP (poor man's T3) dropped in a Boyds stock, but seriously considered a MDT chassis. I still may.

Build Thread - Ruger American

I shot some test loads using RL17 on Saturday. One group of five was .8 MOA. Another was three shots at .5 MOA with two flyers so I need to re test. Either way, sub MOA, sub $1k rifle.
 
I would look at the savage and Ruger that are already in a chassis if that what's your after. They are both great rifles and accept many AR accessories if you want to change things. Plus you will be under budget.

And ya, go with the 6 or 6.5 CM.
 
I would look at the savage and Ruger that are already in a chassis if that what's your after. They are both great rifles and accept many AR accessories if you want to change things. Plus you will be under budget.

And ya, go with the 6 or 6.5 CM.
Precision? Which Savage? Again sorry for having such little knowledge of this..
 
Not a reloader? .308 will do fine.

You don't need to be a reloader to reap the benefits of the 6-6.5 mm bullet class. Ballistics are far superior and no cost difference when buying premium ammunition, which I assume you would be, so why not. .308 may be fine, but why limit yourself.

If we were talking battle rifles, I'd say .308 all the way.
 
Precision? Which Savage? Again sorry for having such little knowledge of this..

I have the savage 12 LRP and love it but it's not a chassis gun. The stealth as mentioned, along with the RPR, are both factory chassis rifles with great reviews. I think the stealth can be had for at/under $900 and the RPR just over $1k.
 
You don't need to be a reloader to reap the benefits of the 6-6.5 mm bullet class. Ballistics are far superior and no cost difference when buying premium ammunition, which I assume you would be, so why not. .308 may be fine, but why limit yourself.

If we were talking battle rifles, I'd say .308 all the way.

I swung heavily on both when buying my RPR. 6.5CM is an awesome flat shooter and sometimes I wonder if I should have chose it.
 
I swung heavily on both when buying my RPR. 6.5CM is an awesome flat shooter and sometimes I wonder if I should have chose it.

So did you end up going with .308 then? I'm not exactly sure what the "swung heavily" means...

It doesn't matter a whole lot really. A couple hundred bucks for a barrel change and your in business in the other caliber.
 
I swung heavily on both when buying my RPR. 6.5CM is an awesome flat shooter and sometimes I wonder if I should have chose it.

I'd still be running a .308 if I didn't grenade the motor in my pickup, forcing me to sell it. Got the truck fixed, decided to go a different route with my next rifle and was amazed how much easier it was to hit the 1k yd plate.
 
So did you end up going with .308 then? I'm not exactly sure what the "swung heavily" means...

It doesn't matter a whole lot really. A couple hundred bucks for a barrel change and your in business in the other caliber.

Yeah, I went with .308. I swung back and forth for quite a while between it and 6.5CM.
 
My BIL has a big .338 Lapua improved chassis gun. It excells at everything except wallet impact.

Definitely a much more satisfying sound when it hits steel;)

I've hit steel at 800 with a .223 78 grain. I can only imagine!
 

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