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Cylinders
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The confusion here is what cylinders are we discussing?
Firing order
1(5)3(6)24
actual numbers front to back
Or 1234(5)(6)
The second is why some have said head gasket.
the first is what I believe you are saying and is where the frustration is.
Did you pre-oil the motor and make sure the lifters are pumping up? If you have a bad cylinder and it shares the same intake runner as another this may cause vacuum turbulence and interfere with proper intake. Did the intake gasket fit the motor and the intake? Sometimes if the intake or head have been swapped they don't always match exactly. I did an older swap from a 270 to a 302 (GMC) and the 302 had a high pro head so I had to get a proper gasket,the listed one did not work.
How can a cam with one worn out lobe cause 2 cylinders to not work? 1977 straight 6 Chevy 250. #5 exhaust lobe out. 125psi on all Chambers, to 150 on second stroke. 5 and 6 are dead.
P.s. those ones that had the intake casted as apart of the head where known to crackYou have 2 problems , I would guess a bad valve or damaged piston or rings .The bad cam still will allow it to have compression . I have the same engine but older mine is 160 on all 6
This is what I was thinking. The air was getting fowled in the intake.Here's an answer to your original question and I'll try to keep it as short as possible. When you lose an exhaust lobe the air can enter a cylinder but can't go out the intended exit. That excess compression can find it's way back out the intake valve and disrupt the intake flow/mixture. You are now introducing an unwanted 150psi where a 20inHg should be. At idle or cruise it may manifest as a misfire on any cylinder(s) that shares that intake runner. Under acceleration it may pop back through the intake.
I've had this happen on a couple 327s.
Had that head originally.P.s. those ones that had the intake casted as apart of the head where known to crack
Really messes with your mind trying to figure the common link to the 2 cylinders. I understood the second compression stroke. This is the only thing that made sense to me. But I had never seen this before. Was a real head scratcher for sure.It makes sense once you've seen it before. In essence, since the exhaust valve doesn't open, it becomes a second compression stroke. As the piston passes TDC the intake valve opens and releases all that cylinder pressure right back into the intake manifold. Really messes with the air/fuel and ends up affecting other cylinders.
Old one what?What's wrong with the old one?
Exactly what I was thinking.Here's an answer to your original question and I'll try to keep it as short as possible. When you lose an exhaust lobe the air can enter a cylinder but can't go out the intended exit. That excess compression can find it's way back out the intake valve and disrupt the intake flow/mixture. You are now introducing an unwanted 150psi where a 20inHg should be. At idle or cruise it may manifest as a misfire on any cylinder(s) that shares that intake runner. Under acceleration it may pop back through the intake.
I've had this happen on a couple 327s.
If you're going to buy a new cam and a new distributor anyway you can switch over to a less oddball distributor/cam drive gear combo.And to add to my woes. Spent 15-20 minutes trying to get the new distributer to seat all the way down. Never did get it.
Had the CARQUEST guys looking for several days to figure this out. In 1977 there were 3 different distributers used. All HEI.
2 used coil over the cap, and one, mine, uses a remote HEI coil. Same coil but different drive gear on the shaft. And the gears can not be swapped. Just my luck to get the odd ball.
If you're going to buy a new cam and a new distributor anyway you can switch over to a less oddball distributor/cam drive gear combo.
It is factory HEI. But an odd ball. 3 distributors used that year. 2 were coil oil the cap. And one with remote coil mounted on the block, which is what I have. Same coil. Just in a different place. But the distributors in that year are "NOT" interchangeable. NOT, NOT EVER.The factory hei will plug right in and you would just run 12 volts to it
Been there tried that, drove CARQUEST nuts trying to figure why this did not work.If you're going to buy a new cam and a new distributor anyway you can switch over to a less oddball distributor/cam drive gear combo.