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Long story short, looking for a 1911 for my wife to shoot and feel comfortable carrying around while we are hunting. I have a Ruger SR1911 full size in .45. She shoots it great, just cant rack the slide unless she holds it super close to her body. This in turn makes her and I uncomfortable. We tried about 15 different models this weekend and didnt find one in .45 that she can do with it pointed away from her. There were plenty of 9mm 1911s that she had no problem with. For comparison she can rack a Glock 41 with no issues. But it isvway too big for her hands. Wants to stay full size to better manage the recoil.
Haven't tried the Remington yet. Is there an easy to rack .45 full size 1911 without custom work?
Other thought is to sell/trade my Ruger .45 and ammo and get 2 9mm 1911s. Are the 9mm reliable as the .45? Dont want to argue ballistics. We are talking shooting targets. This would also keep our caliber stocks down.
Sorry so wordy! Thanks in advance.
 
My Colt National Match .45 acp has a reduced recoil spring (9 lbs) that cuts way down the effort it takes to rack the slide.
You do have to shoot reduced power loads, but if all she's doing is targets, then that might be the way to go.
Wolff Springs sells reduce power spring packs for most 1911 pistols.
 
Usually the .45 is the easier to cycle the slide on, so I'm surprised your having issues with them! A 1911 can be tuned really easy, usually only requiring a recoil spring swap to a better quality one with a lighter weight, though it will wear sooner! Other then that, there is nothing wrong with running 9 mm if it better suits your needs!
 
Having a pistol with front slide serrations helps me rack the slide since my left hand can get a full contact purchase instead of just my fingers and thumb.
 
Having a pistol with front slide serrations helps me rack the slide since my left hand can get a full contact purchase instead of just my fingers and thumb.
Almost ALL of my 1911's are of this configuration! I Bought my first one with this not really knowing any better, and when I was issued one in the service and actually learned to shoot it correctly, I came to appreciate those front serrations GREATLY! Now they all ( except for old ones) have this and I won't buy or build one with out!:s0155:
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One thing she can try is to cock the hammer first then rack the slide. She might look at 38 super as well. They have a lighter recoil spring than a 45 acp. Rock island makes a decent model for a reasonable price. I've got one and like it a lot.
 
Unless modified for lighter load, as noted above, most will have the same recoil spring poundage so racking will feel about the same. My Remington feels about the same as my Kimber but he Remy has a good slide cut to grip. Just asking...is the hammer cocked when she is trying to rack the slide? If not, yes, they are tough. Some will recommend trying this (if you haven't already gone there).

The 9mm spring is lighter, as is the 38 Super. Some will say the 9mm can have some feed issues due to the slightly tapered case compared to the 38 Super and 45. Have not found this to be true as my wife runs 2, 1911's in 9mm (as is my 38 Super). You might try YouTubing for some videos on slide racking. What works great for some, will not work for others. Hope this is a little help.
 
I second the vote on changing out the recoil spring.

Another option, that may take some practice, is changing the technique on how the slide is racked. Instead of grabbing the slide and pulling back see about gripping the slide firmly and pushing forward on the frame. I carry a 1911 almost every day and I usually use my right hand to push the frame forward while using my left to hold the slide in place. Pushing a pistol grip frame is easier than pulling a slide...give it a try!
 
I personally would have her practice more. Racking across the body is valid as long as she keeps the muzzle pointed in a safe direction.
 
Already good advice here regarding recoil springs and cocking the hammer back first. Another trick I learned long ago was to hold the slide stationary while cycling the frame forward, rather the the slide back, i.e. more leverage on the slide... Sounds odd, may be awkward at first, but it's just another way to get leverage...
 
Already good advice here regarding recoil springs and cocking the hammer back first. Another trick I learned long ago was to hold the slide stationary while cycling the frame forward, rather the the slide back, i.e. more leverage on the slide... Sounds odd, may be awkward at first, but it's just another way to get leverage...
We were actually trained to Push/Pull with Both hands, right hand on the grip pushing, left hand on the slide pulling, and the bonus was you were already set up for an instant press check on a mag change! Once practiced, this becomes very quick and fluid and is super easy to do, and it can also be done quietly! :cool:
 
Ok....so you can take this or leave it. I'm saying this because of 14 years of observing and training various officers of various size and strength. When you are working with a hammer-fired pistol with the hammer down, you're not only fighting the recoil spring, but the hammer-mainspring as well. If you were willing to go with a hammerless design....you'd eliminate one of those. We had some of the same issues with our hammer fired duty weapons, but were able to get people squared away with striker fired guns.

If it must be 45 and you want a safety, I would look hard at the M&P45 2.0 Compact. It has a 1911 grip angle and is available with a thumb safety. The compact is full size in frame (10 rounds 45 ACP), but has a 4 inch barrel vs the 4.6 of the full size. Using the small grip mod, its no bigger than any double stack 9mm. Even fits in the 9/40 M&P holsters. It shoots amazingly soft for a 45 that weighs 12 oz less than a steel frame 5 inch 1911.
 
The push pull technique works for all the females shooters I've help before, if she can't master the technique you could alway try a lighter mainspring 18 or 19 lbs vs the "normal" 23 lb spring and a lower recoil spring weight like 14 or 15 lbs. most run 16 or 18 in a Government sized 1911. One last item could help is a more generous radius on the firing pin block so it's easier to cam the hammer back.
 
My wife shoots Dan Wesson V-Bobs in 9mm. Loves them.

I was a 45acp guy for a looong time and gave buddies that shot 9mm quite the ribbing.. I have a good friend in MARSOC that I trained with that showed me the value of 9mm in stressful situations. I can put more rounds down range closer together in a shorter amount of time than with a 45acp. Adrenaline is a part of the equation that I never took into account. I am confident with the ballistics of modern 9mm combined with my abilities to get the job done. I now only shoot 9mm (1911s and Glock 19)
 
No regrets hit on it a few posts above. With a hammer fired pistol you're also cocking the hammer with the slide, which adds resistance from the main spring.
Maybe she should try keeping the hammer back, then when she cocks the slide there's only the recoil spring to overcome.
It's a little unusual, but as a 1911 shooter I don't see any safety issue. Some one correct me if I'm wrong.
Also rem, another thought here.
You can try different, lighter recoil springs, as long as it functions, charges a new round into the chamber, you're good to go.
But I doubt the recoil spring is the problem. I'd bet it's the hammer spring.
 
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Ok....so you can take this or leave it. I'm saying this because of 14 years of observing and training various officers of various size and strength. When you are working with a hammer-fired pistol with the hammer down, you're not only fighting the recoil spring, but the hammer-mainspring as well. If you were willing to go with a hammerless design....you'd eliminate one of those. We had some of the same issues with our hammer fired duty weapons, but were able to get people squared away with striker fired guns.

If it must be 45 and you want a safety, I would look hard at the M&P45 2.0 Compact. It has a 1911 grip angle and is available with a thumb safety. The compact is full size in frame (10 rounds 45 ACP), but has a 4 inch barrel vs the 4.6 of the full size. Using the small grip mod, its no bigger than any double stack 9mm. Even fits in the 9/40 M&P holsters. It shoots amazingly soft for a 45 that weighs 12 oz less than a steel frame 5 inch 1911.
I agree with the idea of the M&P 2.0. A heavier handgun like a full size 1911 vs. a M&P 45 2.0 will recoil less?? WRONG:oops:
I shot these two 45s side by side. The M&P 45 2.0 recoils less than the full size 1911 45!:eek: The M&P is notably softer recoil.
And the M&P is as very accurate.
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I prefer the manual safety for my M&P 2.0. 45 and 9 mm
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