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A build should take a beginner a day at most with extra reading. Just save the beer for the end, after it's finished or it may take a lot longer :)
It might take a day at most if you are building the whole thing, upper and lower. But if it takes you longer than 2 hours to put the LPK in a stripped lower, you started drinking before you started. For the first time it took me under an hour and I was taking my time, checking the online guides on ar15.com
 
Thanks guys for the comments and the pm's. I've pretty much decided that when i want an ar15 that i will build one. All the research and disscussion makes it out to be better. I appreciate all the help!
 
It might take a day at most if you are building the whole thing, upper and lower. But if it takes you longer than 2 hours to put the LPK in a stripped lower, you started drinking before you started. For the first time it took me under an hour and I was taking my time, checking the online guides on ar15.com

I agree but I learned a long time ago that some beginners need more "figure it out" time as well as "that doesn't seem right, I'd better take it apart and start over" time. A day leaves plenty of time for that and doesn't supercharge their expectations which can lead to "why the heck did I listen to those who suggested I just build one" results.:cartman:

I'd also like to add that if building from a kit, there are some "must have" tools. One is and "Armorer's Wrench" like this:

DPMS%20TL-MW%20Wrench-2.jpg

Also a set of pin punches. Pin punches also help aligning parts in the Lower Receiver Fire Control group while assembling. Lyman has a small set that's real useful. Once the "build" is complete, these tools are useful for future repairs or the inevitable "Upgrading".
 
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Deadshot, I agree with all you said. Plan to take more time than you think you need so you won't feel rushed.

The wrench is a good idea if you are only building the lower, but it is essential if you are building both the upper and lower, along with a vice block to hold the upper when you tighten on the barrel.

Not everyone agrees with the need for roll pin punches, but I say get them and use them instead of taped vicegrips. If you are in Salem, you can get them for $4.95 each at Salem Tool on Langcaster south.
 
The wrench is a good idea if you are only building the lower, but it is essential if you are building both the upper and lower, along with a vice block to hold the upper when you tighten on the barrel.

Since most kits come as a box of components I assume that he will be building the upper too. The vice block is a great idea as well although I built all mine without one. I took two pieces of Oak and using a hole saw, drilled down the part line between the two making a hole with a very slightly smaller radius than that of the barrel. With one piece on each side of the barrel I clamped it in my bench vice. Be sure and put a small amount of anti-sieze on the threads of the barrel nut and flange of the barrel. I torque my barrel nut first to about 50# and then "inch it up" until the gas tube hole is properly aligned to the notches in the barrel nut. To check I use a piece of uncoated welding rod pushed through from the butt end of the receiver.

If one plans on doing a lot of work on their AR a "Bench Block" as well as the combo upper/lower receiver blocks are good investments. Having the right tools beats damaging something you don't need to.
 
I'd pass on the Bushmaster, the quality is spotty at best, and they ain't built for the long run.

But if you're a low round shooter, it'll last you a life time.
 
I have a bushmaster XM-e215 and have had very good experience with it. I have put together half a dozen other AR's for myself or friends and I would say fit and finish is great. Mine has around 4k rds through it and i have never had anything issues with it what so ever. And all I have done to it was an aimpoint PRO and a FF rail, and clean and lube.I'm very happy with mine, and just put together I high end AR for myself using all so-called mill-spec parts from very reputable companies and it was sloppy fit and finish compared to my bushy. IMO go with what feels good to you, should feel comfortable to carry and shoot. prob will be happy with the AR platform in general.
 
I have a bushmaster XM-e215 and have had very good experience with it. I have put together half a dozen other AR's for myself or friends and I would say fit and finish is great. Mine has around 4k rds through it and i have never had anything issues with it what so ever. And all I have done to it was an aimpoint PRO and a FF rail, and clean and lube.I'm very happy with mine, and just put together I high end AR for myself using all so-called mill-spec parts from very reputable companies and it was sloppy fit and finish compared to my bushy. IMO go with what feels good to you, should feel comfortable to carry and shoot. prob will be happy with the AR platform in general.

I have a Bushmaster Varminter and my experience is the same. It would be hard to find a better fit and finish in a black rifle, and I've had zero issues. The accuracy is as advertised now that I've properly set up the scope and sight plane. Groups you can cover with a quarter at 100 yds.
 
Most companies buy their parts then resell them. Alot of the times these can be factory seconds...I beleive only three companies make all the parts for the ar-15 in house and they are Colt, I belive Bushmaster and Olympicarms from roll pin to barell...Alot of the other companies do indeed make a complete upper bot they buy their trigger componets etc....From these other companies...With that said when it comes to Olympic arms everything has been milspec that I have gotten from them and are reasnably priced.
 
If "fit and finish" are the most important thing then make sure that you purchase your upper and lower from the same company. This is where I find the largest variations in AR parts. Especially a raised portion that starts on one receiver part and then doesn't match the corresponding part on the other half.

For me function and reliability are the most important parts. Chances are I'm going to end up putting a "cammo job" on it anyway.
 
functionality is very important as well, but I also think it kind of goes hand in hand with fit and finish. If a company has wide range of tolerances on their parts then they arent going to work well when you assemble them and then you will probably end up having issues. No matter how much then gun is worth. I personally dont like putting different upper and lower components together. I try to stick with a good reputable company that makes mil-spec parts and use them for as much as I can in that particular weapon. This last build was the only time i have got burned, and it will be the last time with them.
 
I am seeing a lot of negative remarks about Bushmasters on this thread. I personally don't understand that. I have owned one for many years, and love it. It is the varminter, and it has dispatched many varmints in it's time. With a 55 grain V-Max bullet and 23.4 grains of Varget, I can get sub quarter MOA out of it, and that is bone stock (except for the bi-pod, and Leupold).

Not sure why you guys are hating the Bushmasters so much, they are a fine weapon.

Kelley
 
I am seeing a lot of negative remarks about Bushmasters on this thread. I personally don't understand that. I have owned one for many years, and love it. It is the varminter, and it has dispatched many varmints in it's time. With a 55 grain V-Max bullet and 23.4 grains of Varget, I can get sub quarter MOA out of it, and that is bone stock (except for the bi-pod, and Leupold).

Not sure why you guys are hating the Bushmasters so much, they are a fine weapon.

Kelley

I own the same weapon and get the same results. I too love it. I don't understand the negative comments either.
 
I own the same weapon and get the same results. I too love it. I don't understand the negative comments either.

The negativity usually comes from the guys who put 10's of thousands of rounds (supposedly) down range.They say the bushies break.And the spend big money on a Noveski or have to have the LMT or DD on the side.

How can you say a $800-1000 gun shoots as good as the one you spent $2k-4k on? What would you tell the wife?
 
My first black rifle was an Olympic Plinker Plus 20".
For me, at $695.00 out the door, it was and is a super deal.
Not one malfunction of any kind in 4,000+ rounds of whatever I feed it.
Not a braggin' rights weapon, but very dependable and accurate. It sits at the ready in my abode waiting vigilantly for the collapse of society or zombies that pick the wrong damn house.
 
I have a Bushmaster lower for my M4 and have not had any problems. Unless you are going to run it really hard in competition or multiple carbine courses I think you would be fine. I don't like that upper though. I put a Bravo Company 14.5 with pinned extended flash suppressor on mine so it looks like an M4. To be honest, I chose Bushmaster because that is the nickname of the Oregon Army Guard 41st brigade which I used to be in. :)
 
The hatred comes from the fact that you can buy a properly built rifle for the same price. Personally, I feel it's completely justified and it's time for people to stop doing business with companies that keep selling a lower quality product at high prices. I don't understand why there's not more outrage, when there are companies that offer the things we want at the same price.
 

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