What do I need to start?

[Local Loader]

I'm just going by the info sheets that came with my pad lube and spray lube. If you haven't had any issues than great but if someone is just getting started it's something they can do and should know to help protect powder&primers given there current cost.

 

[RVTECH]

I really believe that the politicians are working towards making gun ownership and everything related to it, a very expensive and difficult thing to participate in.

Ditto this - and it really became 'noticeable' in about about 2009 when several things took a 'jump' in price.

I remember primers passing $2 per 100 on the low end and .22 moving past $7.99ish to about $12.00 a brick by the end of you know whose first year as the prez - and after Sandy Hook it got worse and went full tilt stupid.

That 'thing' that was installed as an 'experimental president' in 2009 was the beginning of a very hard time for gun owners - and has only gotten progressively worse.

 

[Caveman Jim]

Virgin reloader here what all do we need to start? Mainly will do 9mm and .223. Not sure what else we need I'm guessing
1 press
2 scale
3 powder
4 Primers
5 brass
6 Brass tumbler of some sort?
7 lead bullets I suppose
what else?

The first order of business should be reading a Reloading manual or two or three to get an idea of what all is involved with the process. This right here will give you all the information that you will need to make great reloads, all you will need to ad is experience.
First rule of Reloading, do not continue to load when you're distracted. Stop what you were doing take care of things then resume.

 

[Horn Ridge]

I've said it before.....source primers and powder first. After that you may be out of the mood!!

 

[HighlandLofts]

Mark Finkel in Olympia selles used reloading equipment, I bought alot stuff from Mark. He should be able to hook you up with everything you need to get reloading at a reasonable price.
I just bought s Dillion 550 press and a bunch of dies from him.

He just had a bunchof presses listed a short time ago.
Do yourself a favor and buy good quality equipment.

Most of my equipment I bought used and still by used equipment.
I only bought one new Hornaday Lock n Load Kit.
My other two single-stage Lock n Load presses I bought used along with a Dillion 550, Dillion 650, Hornaday AP, Redding T-7, a few RCBS RockChuckers, a couple older Lyman C-presses, and a couple of others. .

You can pick up a few reloading manuals on e Bay as well.
Watch reloading videos on YouTube.
If you get time go check out Mark's reloading shop. He has a real nice big reloading shop.

 

[RedRob]

I have to agree with bionic knees. Most of the pad lubes are fine. They are not petroleum base. RCBS lube is water soluble. Although I don't use the pad anymore and only use the spray on pistol (just a little smoother action on the press even in a carbide die. I use mostly redding sizing die wax. some have pointed out getting with somebody. I enjoy sitting back and reloading. If you are thinking of money saving and .223 and 9mm are all you are doing forget it. you'll be in a grave before you break even. Now if you are loading Mag loads or 22-250 and up then you'll just have a few grey hairs. and that's just cause you'll shot more. I have some hi end reloading stuff but have probable loaded more 9mm on a hand press then most people have loaded on a progressive. I do a lot of traveling and take an couple ammo cans with me and just do one step at a time. Progressive right now with components in short supply would be hard to keep feed. a decent single stage or a turret press would be good to start and see if it's a hobby you'll continue with. Most of the kits will come with close to everthing you'll need minus dies. This is a set up in a hotel. 1500 rds of 9mm on that little hand press. I've done 1000 rds of 223 at a time but be prepared its a workout. I wouldn't suggest any bigger calibers on this but it can be done.

 

[dangerranger60]

Right now is a good time to be buying tools and a manual or two. That way you will be setup when primers become available again.
I would not shy away from a Lee beginners kit. I have one that's over 35 years old. Its still going strong. I still use the press as a De priming station. But I loaded thousands on it before moving to something faster. And what ever brand you get also get their manual. It will help you set up your equipment. DR

 

[billdeserthills]

Virgin reloader here what all do we need to start? Mainly will do 9mm and .223. Not sure what else we need I'm guessing
1 press
2 scale
3 powder
4 Primers
5 brass
6 Brass tumbler of some sort?
7 lead bullets I suppose
what else?

Have you seen the Lee Loader?

Lee Precision, Inc.. Classic Lee Loader

Lee Loader is a complete reloading system, kit includes everything needed to reload, except a rubber mallet, that is not included.

leeprecision.com

 

[Mikej]

Have you seen the Lee Loader?

Lee Precision, Inc.. Classic Lee Loader

Lee Loader is a complete reloading system, kit includes everything needed to reload, except a rubber mallet, that is not included.

leeprecision.com

Yeah. Buy one of those for SHTF. No more Gazoline. When you're on horse back riding through the country scrounging for food and supplies. (dodging zombies) (portland) Your home and real loading equipment is buried in the rubble of your burned out home.

 

[Member 34319]

I've said it before.....source primers and powder first. After that you may be out of the mood!!

No joke. Almost 3 years of primers being nearly impossible to find has made me sell my progressive and take up disciplines that shoot less than 100 rounds in a match.

 

[Horn Ridge]

No joke. Almost 3 years of primers being nearly impossible to find has made me sell my progressive and take up disciplines that shoot less than 100 rounds in a match.

I'm seriously considering a quality air rifle - no joke here either!

 

[Member 34319]

I'm seriously considering a quality air rifle - no joke here either!

Lol, me too. I've been looking at FX's. As well as an air compressor.

 

[DizzyJ]

Lots of great advice given.

Get a quality press. This is the backbone of everything you will be doing. Hard to go wrong with green (RCBS), but there are other quality manufacturers as well.

Good reloading manual. These will give you great information on the process as well as particular loads for said cartridges. You don't have to limit yourself to just one either. I think I've got around 10-12 of them but understandably, starting out, one will do.

Shell holder (for the cartridge being loaded).

Dies (I like carbide for straight walled pistol) RCBS has done well for me here though I have Dillon and Lee too. For rifle, I tend to use Forster, Redding, Lee and RCBS.

As mentioned, get quality measuring instruments. A little more $ now can save a lot of $ later. Dial or digital calipers are a must.

Don't get a cheap digital scale. Accurate digital scales aren't cheap. For now start with a quality beam scale. Any of the big names should provide adequate accuracy and repeatability.

Cartridge reloading tray (for holding cases in their various stages of case prep). Yes there's even a difference on these. MTM makes good ones as well as RCBS. Etc. I haven't been impressed with my Frankfort Arsenal tray.

Lube:
Many different choices from spray on to sizing wax to roller pad. Main thing here is understand the differences between them and the ups and downs of each. Too much lube Is a bad thing. Too little lube is worse. (Stuck case removal tool not a bad idea to have on hand). With the spray on, use plenty and let it dry COMPLETELY before trying to size the brass. Sizing before the spray lube is dry will have negative consequences. See above note about stuck case removers.

Tumbler and media to clean the brass. Wet or dry will do the job. Each has its own issues. With this you will want some kind of media separator (to separate cleaning media from the brass).

Powder measure. Lots of options here. I generally use the RCBS uniflow for most pistol loads. For rifle I weigh each load. Most of the big names will get it done. Don't go too cheap here either though.

Powder funnel. Used to drop powder charges into the case mouth. Get one with a long drop tube. This will allow better settling of the powder into rifle cases.

Head space/shoulder bump gauge. Hornady is what I mainly use. It will attach to your (quality) calipers.

Bullet comparator: Hornady here too. It too will attach to your (quality) calipers. Used for adjusting bullet seating depth for rifle rounds.

Some kind of log to record load data such as powder, powder charge, primer, bullet, seating depth, date, etc.

Boxes to place loaded Ammo into. MTM, Frankfort Arsenal, etc.

Trimming and de-burring tools. Mainly for bottle necked cases. You will at some point need to trim back the case to length. This will leave a bur on the inside and outside. The de-burring tools will remove these burs.

Powder. Select appropriate powder from your (good) reloading manual. This will also somewhat be determined by availability.

Primer: the hardest part right now. Small pistol and small rifle is what you want without going off into the weeds.

Priming tool: some are done by hand, others are integrated into the press.

Bullets: I'd start with standard fmj/plated until you get the hang of things and want to branch out.

GO SLOW!!
PAY ATTENTION!!
Ask question AHEAD of time!

It's a fun rewarding hobby, but it can also be devastating if you don't pay attention to what you're doing. You are after all playing around with things that go kaboom!

 

[Spitpatch]

@DizzyJ and @HighlandLofts combine in their responses toward what I would contribute, encouraging you to look for a complete (or near complete) set up for sale used.

1) Most of the big ticket items are also "Hard Gear": Cared for properly, they almost never wear out.

2) An entire generation that accumulated this hard gear is now in their "sunset years", or worm food. Wonderful stuff is available for less than half what you would pay new. I am still loading on an RCBS A2 press and Uniflow measure that I bought from an elderly gentleman over 40 years ago. He had the whole package, and practically gave it to me when I showed up in response to his "Nickel Ad". I have improved on some of his peripheral gear, but the meat and potatoes still serve as central.

3) Avoid progressive loaders to start with. Nothing wrong with them, but you need to learn the process first (if for no other reason than such will allow you to troubleshoot a progressive loader more effectively).

Finally, GET THAT MANUAL and study up!