Local Bullet casters - I need .264-266 and .284-286 cast bullets

[TM-Salem]

I am looking for someone close that casts .264-266 and .284-286 (6.5 and 7mm) bullets. I need to fire form some used brass that I acquired before working up loads for a 6.5 and 7mm and don't want to waste my good hunting bullets to do this. I need 300 7mm and around 200 6.5mm

I don't have money to buy right now but have 500 Winchester large rifle primers to trade if some one is willing 300 for 300 7mm and 200 for 200 6.5mm

If you like Large magnum rifle primers I can swing that instead

Don't care if they are bare or powder coated or lubed

Thanks for looking.....

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[dangerranger60]

Using a fast pistol powder, you can fire form using a toilet paper wad.

The Ins and Outs of Fireforming Cases

A catch to choosing a rifle chambered for an Ackley Improved round is obtaining the brass to reload. Luckily, fireforming cases — shooting them in the Improved rifle — is a quick and easy way to procure plenty of brass.

gundigest.com

 

[P7M13]

Using a fast pistol powder, you can fire form using a toilet paper wad.

The Ins and Outs of Fireforming Cases

A catch to choosing a rifle chambered for an Ackley Improved round is obtaining the brass to reload. Luckily, fireforming cases — shooting them in the Improved rifle — is a quick and easy way to procure plenty of brass.

gundigest.com

I have done this and also cream of wheat (COW) method.
Much prefer the TP method.
I recommend you remove your ejector from the bolt (if it has one), or your case stretch will mostly happen in the case head. No bueno.

 

[DLS]

I've done the "remove the ejector & Cream-O-Wheat" method with good success.

One thing I do differently is the top wad that holds in the powder. I use a full square or two of toilet paper, depending upon the case mouth size.

I twist up the paper and then thread it into the case mouth letting the excess twisted paper stick out the top.

Make sure the part sticking out is twisted tight enough to enter the barrels throat. You have to fiddle a bit with this, but with the correct amount sticking out the case will be held back against the bolt face.

This causes all the stretching to be in the top of the case, rather than what would happen when the rear of the case can stretch rearward when a gap is present.

This gives your brass the best chance at a long life.

 

[ageingstudent]

I've done the "remove the ejector" & Cream-O-Wheat method with good su cess.

One thing I do differently is the top wad that holds in the powder. I use a full square or two of toilet paper, depending upon the case mouth size.

I twist up the paper and then thread it into the case mouth letting the excess twisted paper stick out the top.

Make sure the part sticking out is twisted tight enough to enter the barrels throat. You have to fiddle a bit with this, but with the correct amount sticking out the case will be held back against the bolt face.

This causes all the stretching to be in the top of the case, rather than what would happen when the rear of the case can stretch rearward when a gap is present.

This gives your brass the best chance at a long life.

I wonder if you could do that with a paraffin or beeswax slug. Seems like it would work.

 

[Brassy Bill]

I have done this and also cream of wheat (COW) method.
Much prefer the TP method.
I recommend you remove your ejector from the bolt (if it has one), or your case stretch will mostly happen in the case head. No bueno.

Have you tried caulk backing for that? I use it for black powder loads to take up space and enable compression.

 

[P7M13]

@TM-Salem , did you fire form your brass yet?

 

[TM-Salem]

@TM-Salem , did you fire form your brass yet?

not yet, i moved and have been busy getting settled and setting up my reloading equipment.

i found that i can use 31 cal round balls for fire forming 30 cal brass but its too big for the 6.5 and 7mm

 

[P7M13]

i found that i can use 31 cal round balls for fire forming 30 cal brass but its too big for the 6.5 and 7mm

I have some cast 6.5s for you that I recently cast. The bullets turned out OK, but I goofed up the powder coating.
Dunno when I'll make it down to Salem again.

 

[ageingstudent]

I have some cast 6.5s for you that I recently cast. The bullets turned out OK, but I goofed up the powder coating.
Dunno when I'll make it down to Salem again.

Okay, now I want to know how? Spill it brother...

 

[P7M13]

Okay, now I want to know how? Spill it brother...

usually I place my powder coated bullets on a tray, base down.
Since I got rid of that old toaster oven, I also got rid of the awesome tray that was with it.
Picked up a new oven (much nicer, I'd add) at Habitat, but no tray.
Had a 1/4x1/4 chicken wire air fryer tray that I used, placing the bullets nose down.
Coated them with the Eastwood powder, heated them at 350°F for 15 minutes. They flowed beautifully, but also welded themselves to the air fryer mesh.
So each bullet has a hideous nick or two on the metplat, which I'm sure will have significant effect on the trajectories.
edit to add -- that Eastwood powder is the bomb.

 

[ageingstudent]

usually I place my powder coated bullets on a tray, base down.
Since I got rid of that old toaster oven, I also got rid of the awesome tray that was with it.
Picked up a new oven (much nicer, I'd add) at Habitat, but no tray.
Had a 1/4x1/4 chicken wire air fryer tray that I used, placing the bullets nose down.
Coated them with the Eastwood powder, heated them at 350°F for 15 minutes. They flowed beautifully, but also welded themselves to the air fryer mesh.
So each bullet has a hideous nick or two on the metplat, which I'm sure will have significant effect on the trajectories.
edit to add -- that Eastwood powder is the bomb.

View attachment 1854654

Oh heck that sucks. Duly noted thanks for sharing that. Wish there was a consistent method for sanding or grinding that pc bur off so you could save those. They look really nice. Eastwood is "the Bomb!" I agree. The fill in is consistent and tough.

 

[P7M13]

Oh heck that sucks. Duly noted thanks for sharing that. Wish there was a consistent method for sanding or grinding that pc bur off so you could save those. They look really nice. Eastwood is "the Bomb!" I agree. The fill in is consistent and tough.

if the mesh were right at the ogive or just below it, where the bullet obturation would iron it out - that would be ideal, because I found it to be an awesome way to very neatly order / stack them for heating.
When I turned the tray over, expecting them to all fall out, and only two did, I knew I was in for an "oh shizzle" moment.
I'll have to look at @conditor22 's silicone trays, if they withstand the heat, that's probably an ideal way to heat rifle bullets. Pistol bullets stack so neatly on their base.
Just the same, picked up a 18x20 scrap piece of 10 gauge stainless sheet from work, I'll plas cut that to the toaster oven dimensions.
I also have two enameled 14x20 14 ga electrical panel blanks that I can cut from.

 

[TM-Salem]

yes silicone will withstand the heat. i used them with my 30 cal bullets. stupid me left them in the toaster oven when it quit and i tossed it.

i would love some 6.5mm bullets to use to expand my cases in this rifle. i really didnt want to use my hunting ones.

Tim

 

[ageingstudent]

yes silicone will withstand the heat. i used them with my 30 cal bullets. stupid me left them in the toaster oven when it quit and i tossed it.

i would love some 6.5mm bullets to use to expand my cases in this rifle. i really didnt want to use my hunting ones.

Tim

Even If you guys don't connect, there is more than one way to fire-form your brass without using your hunting projos. I wouldn't, they are too valuable for that

 

[DLS]

Deformities on the meplat will have very little effect on accuracy. It is the deformities out on the edges that have the most effect.

The farther out from the longitudinal axis the defect is, the greater the untoward effect.

I had some 77gr. Sierra Match Kings that looked like the tips had been smacked on the side with a hammer. They must have been snuck out of the facility after being pilfered from the reject pile as there is no way Sierra would let this out on the market.

I had a service rifle load with good bullets that was a true 1.2 - 1.3 MOA . When I shot these for practice they opened up to 1.4 to MAYBE 1.5 if I pushed the measurements.

I've know others who report the same. But, even a small nick on the heel of the bullet can really mess it up due gas cutting and out of balance issues.

FWIW

Cheers