Using old reloading manuals

[Erock46]

I certainly reload for my shield. 5.2 grins of wsf, 124gran. Fmj. cci 500 primer. Nets me an average of 1100 fps. I have never bought factory ammo for it. Everglades will ship 1000 124's to your door for about 9 cents apiece. 3-1/2 cents for primers and about a penny or two for powder. My shield loves that load. Funny though every time get done shooting I hear a voice coming from my holster that sounds like "is that all you got?!?!"

Thanks for the recipe!
I'm pretty fed up with Midway shipping UPS which now drops off at the local post office which is notoriously unreliable here and at least two more days of delay so I am looking for a new bullet source. thanks again.

 

[The Courier]

Check out RMR in Idaho, fastest free shipping I've experienced and they promptly respond to questions.

 

[Erock46]

Check out RMR in Idaho, fastest free shipping I've experienced and they promptly respond to questions.

Excellent! I've also discovered there's several bullet makers here in Oregon (I like to buy local if possible) and I'll be checking them out. I'll post any interesting findings to the forum.

 

[jrd541280]

Oh, btw, the load I posted is a published load from the hodgden website. Hope your shield likes it as much as mine does. You might want to start out at about 5.0 to begin with though.

 

[Erock46]

Oh, btw, the load I posted is a published load from the hodgden website. Hope your shield likes it as much as mine does. You might want to start out at about 5.0 to begin with though.

Understood, I think that was my plan anyway.

 

[Flopsweat]

Thanks for the recipe!
I'm pretty fed up with Midway shipping UPS which now drops off at the local post office which is notoriously unreliable here and at least two more days of delay so I am looking for a new bullet source. thanks again.

You may want to let Midway know about that. It might not make a difference immediately, but they are very customer focused, so it probably won't go unnoticed.

 

[Silver Hand]

Lead my cost whole sale is under .50 lb. one pound = 7000 grains/ boolits 124 grains Cast = 56 pills per pound
Plus a bit of electricity for the pot, time and effort,about .02 per round
4 grains of 700x = 1,700 rounds per pound at .014 cents per round and a primer at .0259
So it is under.07 cents a round, for a complete accurate round traveling at top speed that is $3.50 per 50 rounds or closer to 65.00 or 70.00 per thousand rounds.
A good Dillon 550 will easily kick out 400 - 600 rounds an hour.
I think the time spent is it worth.
Silver Hand

 

[orygun]

My second reloading manual came with the reloading set up I bought from a friend. It was old then.
There are powders available now that were not available back then, so a newer book will give you info on those. Also, some of the powders have changed dramatically since the "old days", so depending on when your manual was printed, you could have a serious problem with those powders.
FYI, I used to use Blue Dot in my 41 Mag and loved it. But a couple of years ago (probably 5, cuz that's how time flies) Alliant said to not use Blue Dot in any 41 Mag load. While that seems very strange to me, I'll go with it.
Most, if not all, powder manufacturers list reloading data on their websites. Bullet manufacturers don't because they want you to by their manuals. (my opinion) But, what is your gun, or hand, or eyes worth to you?
Moral of my story? Old manuals are cool for reference, but could get you and your gun into serious trouble.

 

[Erock46]

You may want to let Midway know about that. It might not make a difference immediately, but they are very customer focused, so it probably won't go unnoticed.

I did just that...in explicit (non profane) terms.

 

[Erock46]

Lead my cost whole sale is under .50 lb. one pound = 7000 grains/ boolits 124 grains Cast = 56 pills per pound
Plus a bit of electricity for the pot, time and effort,about .02 per round
4 grains of 700x = 1,700 rounds per pound at .014 cents per round and a primer at .0259
So it is under.07 cents a round, for a complete accurate round traveling at top speed that is $3.50 per 50 rounds or closer to 65.00 or 70.00 per thousand rounds.
A good Dillon 550 will easily kick out 400 - 600 rounds an hour.
I think the time spent is it worth.
Silver Hand

I agree! Besides, I really enjoy making boolits!

 

[Member 5605]

Best thing about older load data is I get to see if there is a difference.

Say the 1970 manual stated 44-48gr as a safe load and current says 40-47.5.

I get to take the lowest low and lowest high as my range. Example above would say I use 40-47.5gr as my acceptable range and ladder that.

 

[orygun]

Best thing about older load data is I get to see if there is a difference.

Say the 1970 manual stated 44-48gr as a safe load and current says 40-47.5.

I get to take the lowest low and lowest high as my range. Example above would say I use 40-47.5gr as my acceptable range and ladder that.

When I see this kind of spread and am pretty sure the powder hasn't been altered, I agree with you. Sometimes things are toned down for liability's sake.
Fortunately I have a chrono and can monitor what the heck I'm doin.

FYI, Chronographs don't cost much and are a good way of keeping us experimenters out of trouble.

 

[ma96782]

When I see this kind of spread and am pretty sure the powder hasn't been altered, I agree with you. Sometimes things are toned down for liability's sake.
Fortunately I have a chrono and can monitor what the heck I'm doin.

FYI, Chronographs don't cost much and are a good way of keeping us experimenters out of trouble.

A Chronograph is about measuring speed (i.e. feet per second). It doesn't measure PRESSURE.

But anyway, you should always start low and work your way up when starting with any new load and/or if you change components.

Even a simple primer change can affect pressure.

Miscellaneous Questions 4

And, reading primer deformation can also be "iffy." As there are many factors that affect how a primer looks after firing.

Start low and work your way up. Your manual (or internet data from a reliable source) will guide you.

Aloha, Mark

 

[orygun]

A Chronograph is about measuring speed (i.e. feet per second). It doesn't measure PRESSURE.

Really? I didn't know that...

ok, all sarcasm aside, having a chronograph and recent loading data to read from will let you know when you're getting into the "danger zone". If you're getting velocity much above the posted velocity in the manuals, you should rethink what you're doing.

In my opinion, "reading" primers in a cartridge capable of 60,000 psi is kind of a fluke, unless the primer is backing or falling out of the case. In a 22" barrel I can get around 200 FPS more than any manual lists with a 24" barrel, while no sticky bolt lift, crazy primer deformation or even abnormal amount of swelling of the case head shows. The physical checking methods aren't very reliable in many modern rifles. Many of the old timers would load until the primers fell out, then back off a grain or two. Doesn't sound too safe to me.
2900+fps with a 180gr bullet out of a 30-06 with a 22" barrel isn't likely to be safe. Without a chrono it would be hard to tell when I'm flirting with trouble.

 

[ma96782]

Speaking generally and not to any person in particular......

Anytime, you don't exactly follow what your reloading manual says.......you take a chance.

The data in some reloading manuals will spec out what brand of: brass, primers, bullets, powder (and charge weight)......not to mention what brand of firearm they used......to test their load data.

Reloading manuals will also WARN, that changing components is a bad idea. Not to mention, that different manuals have a different idea about what is an acceptable level for SAFETY. Most importantly, they have the equipment to pressure test their load data and for liability, they do.

That being said......YES, I do my share of experimentation. This usually involves changing brands of my components. However, I don't play with powder brands and drop weight recommendations. I DO NOT, "go off book" and I still continue to start low and work my way up.

Yes, a chronograph is good to have.

But, if you feel the need to go off book or push the limits of speed/pressure (read as: safety).....please go over there. Away from me and/or the other innocent shooters at the range. Or, at least WARN us as to what you're doing.

Aloha, Mark