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Never used any motor oil for a firearm. Why? In 1995 while training in white sands with the BN M2's the CSM decided that the motor oil would work because the CLP was left in garrison. Out of our 6 M2's 5 of them locked up and had failures that required ordering new parts for them! Why? Because sand, heat, gunpowder, and bullets firing doesn't mix well with motor oil! Yes we were firing on the tripods and yes I know that there's lots of variables and I am aware that many people have used different things for years but I am not willing to risk my firearms when I may need them most because I want to use something different.

In a pinch will they work... more than likely yes but it's called being prepared for a reason!

Btw, my 50 was the only one that didn't need to be fixed!:s0014:
 
Never used any motor oil for a firearm. Why? In 1995 while training in white sands with the BN M2's the CSM decided that the motor oil would work because the CLP was left in garrison. Out of our 6 M2's 5 of them locked up and had failures that required ordering new parts for them! Why? Because sand, heat, gunpowder, and bullets firing doesn't mix well with motor oil! Yes we were firing on the tripods and yes I know that there's lots of variables and I am aware that many people have used different things for years but I am not willing to risk my firearms when I may need them most because I want to use something different.

In a pinch will they work... more than likely yes but it's called being prepared for a reason!

Btw, my 50 was the only one that didn't need to be fixed!:s0014:
To be fair, I think there is a vast difference between the single-weight thick lowest bidder oil designed for diesel engines and the lower viscosity multi-weight synthetic Mobil 1 most are talking about.
 
I mix high temp grease, lubriplate and add motor oil to obtain the right viscosity. Been using it for over 20 years in all kinds of weather...both rifle and pistol.

Chad at School Of The American Rifle uses a Mobil One grease oil mixture.

I just think paying a bunch of money for a 1/2 - 1 oz of lube is a bit much.
 
Never used any motor oil for a firearm. Why? In 1995 while training in white sands with the BN M2's the CSM decided that the motor oil would work because the CLP was left in garrison. Out of our 6 M2's 5 of them locked up and had failures that required ordering new parts for them! Why? Because sand, heat, gunpowder, and bullets firing doesn't mix well with motor oil! Yes we were firing on the tripods and yes I know that there's lots of variables and I am aware that many people have used different things for years but I am not willing to risk my firearms when I may need them most because I want to use something different.

In a pinch will they work... more than likely yes but it's called being prepared for a reason!

Btw, my 50 was the only one that didn't need to be fixed!:s0014:

Sound's like Bad Head spacing took them out, not the sand brother..
 
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Gotta say... I'm a little disappointed that this thread has stayed so PG:(
I only clicked to see our resident filthiest do their worst...I'm sure mine isn't the only mind that went out of context when I read title...
 
That would be true if it missed fired or the round was stuck but when you can't pull the charger back it has nothing to do with headspace... it was like cement in them

When your head space is off. It will eat the bottom of the Bolt and the Breach Lock eventually. It end's up locking them up solid. or they POP.
And Honestly 99% of gunners dont know Dik -All about the M2's that's why the military adopted the M2A2 it cuts down on the retard factor.

Even FM23-65 is wrong on how to headspace them.
Us old timers figured that out really quickly.
 
Other than CLP I don't buy specific gun lube.
As a diesel tech I have ready access to all sorts of grease and oil.
The only stuff from work that I use on my pistols is Lubriplate #105 for parts that slide against each other.

I stopped using engine oil, 0W20 or other a long time ago.
Too sticky and doesn't migrate well into slip fit parts such as trigger pins and such.
Regular ol mineral oil of whatever flavor works better for that.
A couple drops will migrate into parts better and not leave a mess behind for dirt and such.

My AR's just get CLP. Extension tube and spring gets sprayed down with white lube though.

The Lubriplate food grade synthetic lubes are ideal with the properties they have but do cost more.
Buying it in larger quantities to get it cheaper doesn't really help unless you use it all before the end of it's shelf life either.

Lubriplate #105 will separate and dry out after long periods but with the frequency that I shoot and re-lube it's not a concern.
Slides that are not being used just get wiped down with CLP for storage, I don't grease the rails until I use it.
I use an air tool grease gun to apply it. Quickly lays down a thin bead without making a giant mess, you're not packing wheel bearings.
 
Gotta say... I'm a little disappointed that this thread has stayed so PG:(
I only clicked to see our resident filthiest do their worst...I'm sure mine isn't the only mind that went out of context when I read title...
Maybe @Stomper will post a pic of the Garand Thumb he got while applying "Clean Lube Piss" following one o' them greasy pork sammiches... :s0140:
 
Gotta say... I'm a little disappointed that this thread has stayed so PG:(
I only clicked to see our resident filthiest do their worst...I'm sure mine isn't the only mind that went out of context when I read title...
Maybe @Stomper will post a pic of the Garand Thumb he got while applying "Clean Lube Piss" following one o' them greasy pork sammiches... :s0140:
Rare form today. :cool:


I have cut back, because I started to suspect y'all were getting spoiled having access to "whirled class" comedy for free all these years....



;)
 
I've always been a believer in Hoppe's#9 until I started using it on my AR's. :(
I found if I left it on for a long period of time, it makes the BCG sticky.:eek:

I also used to keep Brass cased cartridges in my wheel guns, but if the cylinders
were lubed with Hoppe's #9 the brass cases tended to stick in the chambers and
corrode. Not a problem with nickel cases.:s0092:
 
I'll use motor oil in a pinch, but I have all the fancy stuff. CLP, M-Pro 7, Slip 2000 EWG. Solvents seem a lot more important.
Messed up the stainless finish letting a gun sit in gun scrubber... polished it out with some mothers tho.
 
I worked at a gym doing maintenance for years, and tried just about every oil/lube for equipment rods and chains.

I found the 5w30 syn motor 1 worked by far better than anything out there.

I swear by it on everything now. For guns it's easy to over do it. You don't want lube oozing out of your firearm.
So I use a rag or Qtip and wipe it on.

I had a couple guys did maintenance on equipment after guys used white lithium grease and it clumped up and got crusty.
After that I despised that stuff and any time I saw it in maintenance rooms I'd throw it in the trash
 

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