Surefire Warcomp Removal

stick655 · Jun 6, 2023

Recently acquired a rifle with a Warcomp (the three-prong one, which evidently has a special tool for install/removal) that I agreed to send back to the original owner. Tried to get it off with my meager selection of tools but didn't want to mess anything up, as I don't have a vice block. Anyway, was wondering if anyone in the Medford/Ashland area has the necessary set-up to help out with this, thanks.

Member 34319 · Jun 6, 2023

Crush washer or?

No crush washer means it might have a form of thread locking agent on it.

If it's just a crush washer, put a screwdriver in between the tines and lefty loosy.

If no crush washer, take a lighter to the area in the rear of the comp where the threads should be inside for about 30 seconds to a minute and then take a screwdriver in between the tines and lefty loosy.

No vise block? Position the rifle in way that the grip and most of lower and upper is fully in between your thighs for leverage. Or place rifle in tight, put sturdy, space where the grip will catch if rotated to use as leverage.

Screwdriver between tines shouldn't mar it up too bad, if at all. Then again, if the prior owner wanted it so badly they should have taken it off themselves.

RedneckRampage · Jun 6, 2023

If it was installed properly, it will have shims and be Rockset'ed, which is removed by putting it in boiling water, heat from a lighter or torch won't loosen it, Rockset is meant to withstand like 2000 degrees. It shouldn't be torqued too tight. it may work to use channel locks or a pipe wrench on the flat area (wide spot) with a piece of leather wrapped around it.

titsonritz · Jun 6, 2023

Reno said:
If it's just a crush washer, put a screwdriver in between the tines and lefty loosy.

DO NOT use a screw driver to loosen, you will most likely end up damaging your MD.

Here is what Forward Controls says about using screw drivers on their MDs, which are closed tine design:

https://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/6315KM-12x28_p_191.html
CAUTION!
We will no longer replace muzzle devices damaged from improper installation.

6315KM has wrench flats for torquing it on the barrel. Do not use a screwdriver and insert it into one of its ports to torque it. With 30ft lbs of torque, using a rod or screw driver will cause damage to the muzzle device.
JMW (Joint Muzzle device Wrench) was designed specifically for use on suppressor mounts: https://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/jmw-joint-muzzle-device-wrench.html

@RedneckRampage is correct, I would assume Rocksett has been used. I would put in boiling water and let it soak overnight. If that doesn't work then likely some knothead used red Loctite which requires heat to break loose. All that said there is no "special tool" needed beyond a thin wrench, many crescent and open-ended wrenches are too wide to fit the flats. FCD addresses that with his JMW (second link) and standard thin open-end wrench will do the same thing.

RedneckRampage · Jun 6, 2023

titsonritz said:
DO NOT use a screw driver to loosen, you will most likely end up damaging your MD.

Here is what Forward Controls says about using screw drivers on their MDs, which are closed tine design:

https://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/6315KM-12x28_p_191.html
CAUTION!
We will no longer replace muzzle devices damaged from improper installation.

6315KM has wrench flats for torquing it on the barrel. Do not use a screwdriver and insert it into one of its ports to torque it. With 30ft lbs of torque, using a rod or screw driver will cause damage to the muzzle device.
JMW (Joint Muzzle device Wrench) was designed specifically for use on suppressor mounts: https://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/jmw-joint-muzzle-device-wrench.html

@RedneckRampage is correct, I would assume Rocksett has been used. I would put in boiling water and let it soak overnight. If that doesn't work then likely some knothead used red Loctite which requires heat to break loose. All that said there is no "special tool" needed beyond a thin wrench, many crescent and open-ended wrenches are too wide to fit the flats. FCD addresses that with his JMW (second link) and standard thin open-end wrench will do the same thing.

The three prong Warcomps do not have flats, they take a "wrench" that fits inside the tines, that comes with the MD.

titsonritz · Jun 6, 2023

RedneckRampage said:
The three prong Warcomps do not have flats, they take a "wrench" that fits inside the tines, that comes with the MD.

View attachment 1433309

Then they must have changed, mine does have narrow flats and did not come with a tool...

or the OP has the non-suppressor flash hider version not an actual Warcomp.

RedneckRampage · Jun 6, 2023

titsonritz said:
Then they must have changed, mine does have narrow flats and did not come with a tool...

View attachment 1433311

or the OP has the non-suppressor flash hider version not an actual Warcomp.

Crazy, mine (or any of the few I have had) doesn't have flats.

Member 34319 · Jun 6, 2023

titsonritz said:
DO NOT use a screw driver to loosen, you will most likely end up damaging your MD.

Here is what Forward Controls says about using screw drivers on their MDs, which are closed tine design:

https://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/6315KM-12x28_p_191.html
CAUTION!
We will no longer replace muzzle devices damaged from improper installation.

6315KM has wrench flats for torquing it on the barrel. Do not use a screwdriver and insert it into one of its ports to torque it. With 30ft lbs of torque, using a rod or screw driver will cause damage to the muzzle device.
JMW (Joint Muzzle device Wrench) was designed specifically for use on suppressor mounts: https://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/jmw-joint-muzzle-device-wrench.html

@RedneckRampage is correct, I would assume Rocksett has been used. I would put in boiling water and let it soak overnight. If that doesn't work then likely some knothead used red Loctite which requires heat to break loose. All that said there is no "special tool" needed beyond a thin wrench, many crescent and open-ended wrenches are too wide to fit the flats. FCD addresses that with his JMW (second link) and standard thin open-end wrench will do the same thing.

Jerry Rigging ain't easy!

Sounds like a great way to add a sale for a proper wrench. Marketing!

stick655 · Jun 6, 2023

It's got the flats as you can see, and doesn't seem to be a crush washer, just the countersunk one that MD's come with. So it seems the trick is to let it sit in boiled water overnight to loosen it up. I love this place, so much knowledge floating around...just gotta reach out and ask for it.