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So recently I purchased a trio of M&P 2.0's one of which being a 3.6" compact. Took them all shooting they worked perfectly using cci blazer. A week later went back out with coated lead reloads, two of the three and my g19 str these beautifully. That said the compact jammed within the first mag. It failed to go into battery, and would not clear the round as it had stuck around 1/8" short of fully seated. Took it home, cleared and cleaned it and took it back out with a mix of ammo. The slide slammed forward on the first round and stuck again, this time leaving the bullet in the barrelwhen I finally got the case and powder ejected.

On inspection there is one spot on the barrel that make an imprint on the bullet taking the shine off the copper so I assume there is something protruding out in that spot. With all this said I'm not sure if I should try a super aggressive lead cleaner or ship the gun back to smith? As I've never had a single issue with the countless Smith's I've owned this hits ne as an anomaly.
20181231_095036.jpg
 
Sorry the picture is of a round in the chamber if you attempt to close the slide. The barrel and chamber are cleared as is I was just trying to provide a visual reference of how far back it stops.
 
Remove the ring of brass that broke off and is stuck in there.
Good chance that Medic! hit it---there is a bunch of "stepped brass" out there that will
break off a ring and leave it in the chamber. They can be a real pain to get out. If that's
what it is, try shoving in a new oversize bronze cleaning brush from the chamber end just
far enough to be in the brass ring, then pull back. An overnight soak in some Kroil might
help.
 
I use a small flat screwdriver not much bigger than an eye glass screwdriver. I wedge it up between the brass ring and chamber then gently twist and start to fold the ring in on its self. It should come right out after that.

Keep the screwdriver blade flat to the chamber. You don't want a big scratch.
 
Hm, your first pic does not work.

As for the blue plastic schmootz - brass brush and a soak in automatic transmission fluid (non synthetic kind) - or acetone. ATF is a good detergent and will get a lot of gunk off of metal parts with a good soaking. If ATF won't do it, try hitting it with acetone. Acetone will probably melt the crap.

Does the gun failure to go into battery with factory loads, or only with reloaded ammo?
 
No. The round stops where it is as in the first picture. That was a round dropped in the chamber then the slide softly closed behind it.

Trying to narrow it down.

With the barrel out of the gun. Drop in a round. Dose it go in all the way?
Take a picture . Try a couple different brands of. ammo

To me the chamber shoulder looks fouled where the round should index. I would clean it.

If a [proper dimension] round wont drop in the barrel and seat properly when its out of the gun it's the chamber.

If it won't chamber when in the gun? It could be the rim of the round is not behind the extractor? Or something else.
 
It looks like those rounds are in the chamber far enough.

Do you ever drop a round in the chamber and slam the slide forward and get the extractor to snap over the rim of a round? [Don't do that].

If so. Maybe there is a chip on the bottom of your extractor. And the rim of the rounds feeding from the magazine aren't being guided behind the extractor? There in front. Like in your picture.
 
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The ejector is fine. After lubing the ejector and more barrel scrubbing I have gotten everything to cycle other than the coated remanufactured ammo. There is still some build up right at the edge of the rifling that I will soak and try to remove overnight. Thank you Medic! and everyone else as well. I will update as I find out more. And will try to take some measurements for clarification.
 
I had this very same problem when I changed the bullets I was using for my reloads from one make to that of another.

Despite them both being 115gr, the ogive was different enough that they wouldn't go into battery until I reduced the OAL.

What works in one barrel don't mean it will work in another. In that barrel pic, that looks like enough to do it... give a problem.

Barrel pic of reloaded vs factory loads that work fine would be nice.
 
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I had this very same problem when I changed the bullets I was using for my reloads from one make to that of another.

Despite them both being 115gr, the ogive was different enough that they wouldn't go into battery until I reduce the OAL.

What works in one barrel don't mean it will work in another. In that barrel pic, that looks like enough to do it... give a problem.


This ^^^ is what I had to deal with. Just sayin'. I use Montana Gold in 9mm, .357 and .40. In Wifey's Kimber Pro Aegis I needed to shorten OAL because of the lands being close to the chamber than or other 9mm guns. I had to shorten OAL a few more thousandths for the Tanfoglio. Lowering powder weight to compensate for shorter than recommended OAL.
 

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