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That's how it mounts to the grip frame. Here's a picture of my Ruger Mark IV. Notice the button directly under the bolt ears?:
View attachment 670127
When that button gets pushed the rear of the receiver gets tilted upward and then the upper will come off that front pin for complete removal.
Here are a couple of Ruger Mark IV uppers I recently bought from Volquartsen's close-out area for $25.00 each and $15.00 shipping:
View attachment 670128
See the hook in the front of the receiver on these two Mark IV uppers? They fit over that pin you circled. I tried both on my Mark IV upper above and they fit perfectly:
View attachment 670129
From what I've read Volquartsen has more of these uppers back in stock.
Is that easier than just flipping up the lever on the backstrap and lifting that whole upper off the frame?
I ask because I don't see a problem with how it was done on my gun.
 
This is the same Volquartsen who makes a tarted-up Ruger pistol for yUK that sells here for just under $2700, right?

1584300539963.png
 
Is that easier than just flipping up the lever on the backstrap and lifting that whole upper off the frame?
I ask because I don't see a problem with how it was done on my gun.

Yes, and none of my Ruger Mark I, II, 22/45 & III pistols work that way. While the tack-down latch on the mainspring housing assembly does indeed flip up, pivot backward and then allow the mainspring housing assembly to be removed, the upper will not just lift up and off. The upper assembly will need to be pushed, or knocked, forward so that the assembly tab in the front of the grip frame comes free of the receptacle for that tab, and then the upper can be removed.
The main concept involving the Ruger Mark IV is the ease involved with removing the upper from the grip frame for cleaning and then how easily it will go back into place. Apparently, many folks had a bit of "mental anguish" trying to get the hammer strut centered over the top plunger for the mainspring. The bottom end of the strut could get hung up in front of the pin for the longer leg of the sear spring and then lock up the disassembly latch. That caused lots of tears and cuss words.
 
Yes, and none of my Ruger Mark I, II, 22/45 & III pistols work that way. While the tack-down latch on the mainspring housing assembly does indeed flip up, pivot backward and then allow the mainspring housing assembly to be removed, the upper will not just lift up and off. The upper assembly will need to be pushed, or knocked, forward so that the assembly tab in the front of the grip frame comes free of the receptacle for that tab, and then the upper can be removed.
Pulling that lever and removing it from the backstrap pulls out the pin that goes through the upper. Then you can push the upper forward and remove it....just like the guy does in this video.....


...maybe your Mk. 1 is a later version that dissassembles a little differently?


Dean
 
Yes, and none of my Ruger Mark I, II, 22/45 & III pistols work that way. While the tack-down latch on the mainspring housing assembly does indeed flip up, pivot backward and then allow the mainspring housing assembly to be removed, the upper will not just lift up and off. The upper assembly will need to be pushed, or knocked, forward so that the assembly tab in the front of the grip frame comes free of the receptacle for that tab, and then the upper can be removed.
The main concept involving the Ruger Mark IV is the ease involved with removing the upper from the grip frame for cleaning and then how easily it will go back into place. Apparently, many folks had a bit of "mental anguish" trying to get the hammer strut centered over the top plunger for the mainspring. The bottom end of the strut could get hung up in front of the pin for the longer leg of the sear spring and then lock up the disassembly latch. That caused lots of tears and cuss words.
Ah, I see.
Yeah, I guess I was being kinda thick with my second question.
I haven't shot that gun in some time and I remember now just how hard it is just to flip that lever (seems like I have to use a flat tip screwdriver).
Ok, Thanks for taking the time to explain that. Much appreciated.

Dean
 
After a recent purchase I've completed my collection of Ruger Rimfire Precision rifles.

95430EA4-3034-45B4-B24A-DFBC3A560FAD.jpeg
 
View attachment 594098 Sears/Savage single shot in 22lr with the cheapest scope money can buy. Got the rifle for free because it didn't work, put on a new extractor that cost .39 cents, sanded the white and red paint off the stock and rubbed it down with BLO. It's a very useful little rifle and will probably never leave my modest collection as it gets more real time use than anything else, plus it's backyard quiet with CCI quiet ammo.
Your my type people. I bought a Winchester 190 for $25 + $10 background a couple weeks back. It is nothing but I pile of parts right now.
 
Snagged this Bergara from @LuckySG and haven't taken it out yet.

Waiting for wife to leave for work. Nikon Prostaff Rimfire 4-12 on top.

Good lord this is a good deal. 3.5lb trigger, light as hell with the carbon fiber wrapped barrel. Even with bipod and optic it's not front heavy.

80837988-37C8-41F8-B482-3021513AD7E1.jpeg

I just may go kill some nutria tonight with it. Silent slayer.
 
Snagged this Bergara from @LuckySG and haven't taken it out yet.

Waiting for wife to leave for work. Nikon Prostaff Rimfire 4-12 on top.

Good lord this is a good deal. 3.5lb trigger, light as hell with the carbon fiber wrapped barrel. Even with bipod and optic it's not front heavy.

View attachment 689133

I just may go kill some nutria tonight with it. Silent slayer.
I heard the local nutria were planning on doing some unkind things in your yard, probably a good idea to show them who's boss. ;)
 
Just finished this M1 tribute with parts from EABCO and Tech Sights. Upon delivery, the stock has a very dark, reddish-brown lacquer finish that reminded me of furniture from the Bombay Company. It only took about an hour and some citrus stripper to remove it pretty easily.

I was planning to change the color afterward, but I used Waterlox tung oil finish as a test and ended up liking the color (what you see is exactly what was left after the ugly stuff came off and there was virtually no change in tint from the Waterlox).

IMG_3148.JPG IMG_3149.JPG IMG_3150.JPG IMG_3151.JPG IMG_3152.JPG
 
Last Edited:
Just finished this M1 tribute with parts from EABCO and Tech Sights. Upon delivery, the stock has a very dark, reddish-brown lacquer finish that reminded me of furniture from the Bombay Company. It only took about an hour and some citrus stripper to remove it pretty easily.

I was planning to change the color afterward, but I used Waterlox tung oil finish as a test and ended up liking the color (what you see is exactly what was left after the ugly stuff came off and there was virtually no change in tint from the Waterlox).

View attachment 691750View attachment 691751View attachment 691752View attachment 691753View attachment 691754
I've heard Tung Oil is not the best for outdoor use.
Doesn't stand up to weather well and needs constant attention.
Might've been better using some kind of poly on there.
Nice looking gun, though. I like it.


Dean
 
Just finished this M1 tribute with parts from EABCO and Tech Sights. Upon delivery, the stock has a very dark, reddish-brown lacquer finish that reminded me of furniture from the Bombay Company. It only took about an hour and some citrus stripper to remove it pretty easily.

I was planning to change the color afterward, but I used Waterlox tung oil finish as a test and ended up liking the color (what you see is exactly what was left after the ugly stuff came off and there was virtually no change in tint from the Waterlox).

View attachment 691750View attachment 691751View attachment 691752View attachment 691753View attachment 691754
I think Tung Oil is a good idea but I would have used a product called LinSpeed. The only drawback is it takes a number of applications for it to be at it's best.
 

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