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Setting up my 9mm tool head for my Dillon 550C. Me thinks I need to pull the powder die back a bit :rolleyes:.

20200429_152245.jpg
 
Bet he can't do it again after another resize.
Okay your on! I'm thinking I can run it through a .45 sizer, then a .40 and then the 9 … then flare it again.

I'll have to unset my powder die … since I've already tweaked it to the proper setting, but what the heck, it's all in the name of science!

It's a once-fired Blazer brass case by the way!
 
Okay your on! I'm thinking I can run it through a .45 sizer, then a .40 and then the 9 … then flare it again.

I'll have to unset my powder die … since I've already tweaked it to the proper setting, but what the heck, it's all in the name of science!

It's a once-fired Blazer brass case by the way!
That might become the first 9mm case trim to length you've ever needed to do let alone on once fired brass
 
Okay your on! I'm thinking I can run it through a .45 sizer, then a .40 and then the 9 … then flare it again.

I'll have to unset my powder die … since I've already tweaked it to the proper setting, but what the heck, it's all in the name of science!

It's a once-fired Blazer brass case by the way!

In my assortment of mixed head stamp 9mm brass I can "Feel" the difference when sizing, and priming, a piece of Blazer Brass. Blazer feels to be more malleable than others. You might actually be able to get it back in 9mm shape!
 
I bet it chambers in a Hi-point.

That or put it up for sale in the classifieds. After seeing some of the stuff guys are putting up for sale and prices ask, it would fit right in.
 
Well I tried!

I pulled the decapping rod from my .45 and .40 sizer, put them in my single stage upside down to allow me to drive the case into the die base first (the bell was too large to enter the die otherwise).

Then a quick push with a punch to remove the case. After the .40 die this is what I had:

20200430_155941.jpg


Since the 9mm is tapered it needed to go into the sizer mouth first. I rolled the mouth down between two pieces of steel thinking I had it reduced enough to enter the die. It entered smoothly, I felt no resistance at all but when removed this is what I ended up with.


20200430_161005.jpg


Oh well, at least I don't need to mess with my now properly adjusted powder die.

I used a Lee die, I should have tried my Dillon die since it has a larger radius on the entry end of the die, but it was in the 550 tool head and I was being lazy. That, and I felt absolutely no resistance or hitches as I inserted the case into the Lee die.

What some folks will do in the name of science ... and boredom from being stuck at home.
 
Last Edited:
Well I tried!

I pulled the decapping rod from my .45 and .40 sizer, put them in my single stage upside down to allow me to drive the case into the die base first (the bell was too large to enter the die otherwise).

Then a quick push with a punch to remove the case. After the .40 die this is what I had:

View attachment 691917


Since the 9mm is tapered it needed to go into the sizer mouth first. I rolled the mouth down between two pieces of steel thinking I had it reduced enough to enter the die. It entered smoothly, I felt no resistance at all but when removed this is what I ended up with.


View attachment 691918


Oh well, at least I don't need to mess with my now properly adjusted powder die.

I used a Lee die, I should have tried my Dillon die since it has a larger radius on the entry end of the die, but it was in the 550 tool head and I was being lazy. That, and I felt absolutely no resistance or hitches as I inserted the case into the Lee die.

What some folks will do in the name of science ... and boredom from being stuck at home.

Two comments....

That first pic is, almost, kind of sexy. :oops:

It's amazing what kinds of things people come up with to pass their time when they're bored.
 

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