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Thanks for all the info guys really appreciate it. I've been trying to stay away from lee dies, because people say its to short? But it seems like everyone is recommending lee dies, and I guess for what they cost ill give lees a shot.

I have Lee dies and they are just fine, IMO. The Lee decapper dies are the best but they are not "unbreakable" as Lee used to advertise :s0114:

I bought a 10 pack of the pins just because of this
 
I taper crimp all my hand loads as well as factory self defense auto pistol rounds.. as do many police depts these days.. it prevents bullet setback under repeated chambering of duty rounds. Police depts such as Tacoma, WA use jail trustees to do this work

Just gradually adjust the taper die until it gives a gentle but good taper to the case. Another benefit is it improves feeding of the rounds because they have a smoother profile
enlightening and educational, I read about recoil causing setback,BTW my meds are up to date!:s0131::s0155:
 
I have Lee dies and they are just fine, IMO. The Lee decapper dies are the best but they are not "unbreakable" as Lee used to advertise :s0114:

I bought a 10 pack of the pins just because of this
I like that system too. I polish the parts on new dies with
Flitz which may or may not do any good but it smells nice and cannot hurt.
 
I like that system too. I polish the parts on new dies with
Flitz which may or may not do any good but it smells nice and cannot hurt.


Smell aside, as long as the polish is inside where the work is done shiny helps alot. Less drag on the brass with subsequent marking of the case. Easier to clean.

Done right it's a time consuming process and that costs money thus the reason Lee doesn't do much. Polishing a die, internally, is a lot like taking a brand new rifle and accurizing it. They both work, but the one with the extra finish work usually works better.
 
Smell aside, as long as the polish is inside where the work is done shiny helps alot. Less drag on the brass with subsequent marking of the case. Easier to clean.

Done right it's a time consuming process and that costs money thus the reason Lee doesn't do much. Polishing a die, internally, is a lot like taking a brand new rifle and accurizing it. They both work, but the one with the extra finish work usually works better.
I modified a tapered buffing wheel and chucked it up in the drill press. Dies do not seem to need it but they sure do shine inside.
 
When there's a thread on crimping, I'm always surprised that nothing is said of case length or trimmers.

For a fact if your cases are all different lengths, your crimps will vary too. The crimp die indexes on the length of the case.

I at least check the length of new-to-me brass every time. I do that with my Forster case trimmer.

Saves a step. :s0155:
 
When there's a thread on crimping, I'm always surprised that nothing is said of case length or trimmers.

For a fact if your cases are all different lengths, your crimps will vary too. The crimp die indexes on the length of the case.

I at least check the length of new-to-me brass every time. I do that with my Forster case trimmer.


Saves a step. :s0155:

I prefer my RCBS with a 3-Way Cutter. Trims to length, Chamfers, and De-Burrs, all at the same time. I don't even measure anymore to see if a case needs trimming. I just automatically do it as part of the inspection process.

BTW, Length is more critical when roll crimping. Taper crimping is far more forgiving.
 
I prefer my RCBS with a 3-Way Cutter. Trims to length, Chamfers, and De-Burrs, all at the same time. I don't even measure anymore to see if a case needs trimming. I just automatically do it as part of the inspection process.

That's a really nice tool. I don't mind giving the Lee tool a single turn twist in and out. FWIW, the Lee tool will also remove the crimp from a primer pocket with a single turn although I prefer swaging those rather than removing metal.
 

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