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This is a fairly new scope on a favorite old hunting rifle and the Warne screws are already rusting. If I was to take only 1 screw out and find a replacement and replace each screw to the same torque one at a time would that affect my zero and what screws should I buy to prevent this from happening again?

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I don't see how zero would shift if they were replaced one at a time.

I have hit some with a light shot of Krylon in the past. If you don't mind the color variance, stainless will resist rust much easier.
Id prefer black screws but ultimately want something that works. Im surprised Warne would sell screws that arent plated properly to protect against rust. I'll get stainless if I need to but Im not certain what material or plating type to look for in black or dark screws?
 

Warne doesn't make the fasteners, they are at the mercy of their suppliers. I've worked in manufacturing, it sucks having bubblegum fasteners, especially when some batches are good, others are what you have. There isn't much you can do but recoat them yourself.
 
This is a fairly new scope on a favorite old hunting rifle and the Warne screws are already rusting. If I was to take only 1 screw out and find a replacement and replace each screw to the same torque one at a time would that affect my zero and what screws should I buy to prevent this from happening again?

View attachment 1071572

View attachment 1071573
My first thought was too replace them with nylon screws.
I don't know enough about the integrity or longevity for stated purpose, maybe someone can chime in.
 
Remove screws, purchase a rust converter and soak the screws. Presto, the rust is now a durable protective finish and the brown color should be more of a dull black. Allow the screws to thoroughly dry/convert prior to reinstalling and make sure to use blue thread locker. Also, make sure to adjust torque accordingly based on lubricated threads as per ASTM.

For precision shooting it's likely that the zero will shift slightly no matter what you do since torque wrenches can be off by several percent especially at the extremes of their torque range.
 
I noticed at ACE hardware the other day they have a specific cabinet with blackened, gun screws.
I'll check them out, if I get lucky and they have my screw then cool. if not I'll probably just go the easiest route with stainless. Thanks for the tip.
 
Yea I just saw it the other day. I suspect it is a fairly new addition as I am in the 'specialty' hardware section often and either never noticed it before or it is in fact new. Hopefully your store has them!
Ace is a cool hardware store, I should shop there more but it seems like the only thing I buy at Ace is special hardware when Im trying to fix something, they generally have the best selection for screws. I'll have to see if I can get down there soon to check it out.
 
Use stainless if they are going into an aluminum thread. Paint them black if you want. Use blue Loctite on the threads. Remove and replace one screw at a time and nothing should change very much. Torque them properly.
 
Use stainless if they are going into an aluminum thread.
so I went and searched that and reading different things that stainless screws will corrode aluminum threads but steel screws are worse, zinc plated stainless is ideal I think...
 
so I went and searched that and reading different things that stainless screws will corrode aluminum threads but steel screws are worse, zinc plated stainless is ideal I think...
I was a certified outboard mechanic in a former life. I've taken apart lots of aluminum engines where someone replaced an OEM stainless screw or bolt with a carbon steel one. It ain't pretty. There's a reason outboard manufacturers go to the extra expense of using nothing but stainless screws and bolts on aluminum engines.
 
Are you in the Portland area by any chance, as I have a whole bunch of extra scope mount fasteners and you're more then welcome to go through them.
 
Are you in the Portland area by any chance, as I have a whole bunch of extra scope mount fasteners and you're more then welcome to go through them.
Westside. One of these days it would be fun to meet many here Ive chatted with over the past few years. Very generous of you to offer, I do have an Ace Hardware store down the road from me I should be able to get what I need but perhaps if I cant I can send you a PM.
 
When GI Joes went out of business, I bought their tackle box of scope parts behind the counter.
All that stuff was from swapping scopes for customers that wanted to upgrade to a better scope, or add a scope after purchasing a rifle.
There was three times what is shown in the pictures, and over the years it's helped a lot of folks looking for an odd part or to match a vintage mount.

IMG_2795.JPG IMG_2796.JPG
 
When GI Joes went out of business, I bought their tackle box of scope parts behind the counter.
All that stuff was from swapping scopes for customers that wanted to upgrade to a better scope, or add a scope after purchasing a rifle.
There was three times what is shown in the pictures, and over the years it's helped a lot of folks looking for an odd part or to match a vintage mount.

View attachment 1071782 View attachment 1071783
Lots of history in that box.... Grew up with GI Joes, I'll never be able to recall now but theres a good chance the very first scope I put on my deer rifle (above) came from GI Joes. Either Joes or BiMart. Anyways, couple of years ago I ran into a new Leupold VXR on sale so now the rusty screws. :)
 
I second Velzey's recommendation. I use Warne rings on quite a few of my rifles. A couple times where I needed some help (swapping a set of medium rings for high), or where I had an alignment issue that wasn't even related to their rings) they have been very helpful. Last time I reached out for help, they were in the Portland metro area (Tualatin).
 

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