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Discussion in 'Maintenance & Gunsmithing' started by Dyjital, Apr 15, 2018.
Send it back that's just crazy there quality is going down hill?
I usually like to fix gun problems myself because: 1) I'm mechanically inclined 2) I freaking hate waiting and the cost to ship guns 3) I doubt it'll be properly fixed by the people that boned it up to begin with.
In your case, I would also send it back to Ruger because grinding on the serialized part of the weapon is a red flag for me. Too easy to screw it up and be out an entire gun. If it was the barrel that needed the feed ramp polished, I'd say do it yourself.
Sucks you have to wait for Ruger to fix what they should have handled from the factory.
And +1 to a break in period being unacceptable. That's a bunch of BS. Freaking Kimber. @Ura-Ki
One more for your Kimber break-in period.
For those who don' understand the whole 1911 and break in, would you go out and hammer the hell out of a brand new Corvette, right of the showroom floor with out breaking it in first? Do you think that car will make it far enough to surpass the powertrain warranty? Prolly not! A 1911 is a precisely machined and fitted instrument, it takes a little time to wear those moving parts in and loosen it up just enough to remain tight and yet accurate! We'e Not talking just Kimber, but all mid range and higher 1911s! I would have thought Ruger would have fit in here, but I see that's not the case! Tell me this, that same corvette, would you just fire it up cold, slip it in gear and hammer down on it? Not likely if you expect it to last! Say what you will about Kimber and a break in prosess, if you don't follow, thats entirely on you when it fails, or dosnt live up to the lofty reputation the 1911 platform has rightly earned!
Considering that's the logical fallacy of the False Dichotomy, a 1911 neither needs to be warmed up to avoid damage nor is it as complex a machine as an internal combustion engine. It has exactly 1 purpose and that is to go bang when the gas pedal is pushed. 1st time, every time. Otherwise it is broken. Sure, there are some manufacturers that build in tolerances so tight that they are essentially final-fitted upon initial firing, hence the much-debated "break-in" but a 1911 for all it's beauty and elegance is a machine that Must Work if called upon. Send it back or move it on. I'd say that's just my 2c, but I think I tossed a quarter there...
Exactly, break in = b.s.. If it doesn't work out of the box, something is wrong.
when in doubt, ship it out!
Most guns need a break-in of some sort. All my M&P triggers were gritty for several hundred rounds before smoothing out; AK bolt carriers can be sticky when charging until the hammer smooths out. I shoot my guns a lot already, so a break in period doesn't bother me. I also don't trust any gun right out of the box and would never put a gun into a defensive role without firing at least 500 rounds through it.
See that's where I get worked up.
I've heard lots of folks talk about more expensive 1911s needing to be broken in like it is a good thing
I think that is a bad thing in my opinion.
If I were to make a expensive product, I would perform this supposed break in period for the customer, so said customer would simply get an amazing product from the get go without having to break it in of any sort. In other words, you get this amazing reliability from the very beginning.
If this is considered a normal thing among expensive brands, I say that's a very lazy aspect on the manufacturers to expect the end user to perform the ultimate "finishing" of the product.
I like my products finished from the get go.
It could just be that this one is defective and otherwise wouldn't need breaking in. That barrel ramp doesn't look cut deep enough. I don't have experience with Rugers but if you can feel side to side play in the slide to frame fit then its probably just defective feed ramp. If its a tight fit then it needs about 500 rds, give or take, to break in naturally with a wipedown and reoiling every 50rds during that process (per my Dan Wesson owners manual). An alternative to speed that up is to rack the slide manually 500 times while watching tv or something don't forget to re-oil....
like it or not, some 1911s do need breaking in and its in their owners manual, usually 500rds. I know Kimber and Dan Wesson say so. I agree that they shouldn't, but you can thank the gun sheeple for thinking if there is play in the slide to frame fit that their precious piece of 1911 history was not worth the high dollar 1911s command. They don't need to be fitted that tight to be the reliable tack driver they are famous for.
Have label for return to Ruger. Called today after school and set it up.
Now I need to find a plain box and send it in.
I bought a small cheap plastic handgun case for warranty shipping, then put it inside a recycled cardboard box stuffed with newspaper around it. The case has been to two different manufacturers for warranty repair (Sig and Dan Wesson) each one twice.... so don't feel alone in the problem. People just dont take pride in production anymore not even Dan Wesson.
Guess I am going to stick with my caspian/foster framed guns, may even go for a fitted slide on the next one. Them there factory guns sound like a pita.
Dry runs at the house show it loaded first round.
Will try range trip and verify.
Ruger states: repaired extractor, repaired grip frame.
Feed ramp look different? You’ll know for sure if it’s been cut, cause you have a picture of before...
If a gun needs break in it is one of (or both) of two reasons, the parts are soft and the next thing after break in will be worn out or there is no fitting at the factory. My Colts have never needed anything but a trigger job to tighten up the lawyer induced heavy pull. Once polished and adjusted, they don’t change. Slide fit is another way to identify a quality gun.......most non hand fit, non Colts are junk. There are good quality non Colt guns but they are expensive. A couple of hours of hand fitting costs probably 2-300 dollars but worth every penny. Colt Parts have differential heat treat making each part a combination of hardness required without being brittle. They have been doing it for nearly 120 years.
Yeah, forgot to upload.
Easy to see they lengthened it.
When side by side compared to original...
I can run my finger down and feel no lip. I’ll go from feed ramp to magwell without noticing a difference.
2 weeks from your door and back seems like a pretty good turnaround.
I don't buy into the Colt is the only 1911 stuff. Sigmadog , a member couldn't get his Colt to feed a mag without jamming. And many rental companies use Springfield 1911s. And that's not because they like working on guns. Ya Colts are nice and nothing wrong with their slide release and other small parts. But nothing other manufacturers arnt doing anymore.
Most aftermarket underpriced manufacturers take advantage of the fact that few guns get more than a few hundred rounds of ammo fired in them during there lifetime. I have built maby 50 1911’s from bare frames. It is really easy to tell the qua;it’s of a part when you are fitting it. I usually bought oversized parts requiring fitting and as soon as you touch them with an abrasive it is apparent the inherent quality was. The USMC armorers are building 1911’s for the Force recon and matches with Caspian frames and Colt parts. The Caspian frames are cut oversized and underside allowing parts to be precisely fit. My Caspian/Gold Cup has probably 20,000 rounds through it and the fit has never changed. My Colt Commander has been shot with maximum loads probably 5-10,000 times with the same result. I built a Springfield frame when they first came out. It could be scratched with an awl and was very soft........in short......Junk. Essex frames were good but nothing was better than Colt and/or Caspian.