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Might close a little easier if you clean up the face of your bolt. Looked like lots of brass built up there....
If it closes on a go gauge, you are good to go, tight is ok and usually looked on as preferable.
 
Hey. If your chamber is tight that really means it's "short" a thousandth or two and that is fine. But what if your brass is a tad on the long side. That would mean that when you chamber around, the neck might be getting pushed into the lede where the barrel meets the chamber. That would cause compression on the neck on the bullet. But it will be compression as a function of the length of the case in the lede. So, you might get variable result of increased or decreased pressure based on unintended crimping as you chamber the round.

Have you tried doing a set of rounds were you do a case trim first maybe two thousandths short? Just enough to make sure that the neck is out of the barrel when you chamber the round.
 
Hey. If your chamber is tight that really means it's "short" a thousandth or two and that is fine. But what if your brass is a tad on the long side. That would mean that when you chamber around, the neck might be getting pushed into the lede where the barrel meets the chamber. That would cause compression on the neck on the bullet. But it will be compression as a function of the length of the case in the lede. So, you might get variable result of increased or decreased pressure based on unintended crimping as you chamber the round.

Have you tried doing a set of rounds were you do a case trim first maybe two thousandths short? Just enough to make sure that the neck is out of the barrel when you chamber the round.

He hasn't done that. We are going to swap out the glass this sunday and head to the range. After doing a thorough cleaning on the RPR. The goal is to put my spare leupold scope on it just to make sure that it isn't the glass. I know my scope is good because I just upgraded the glass on my AR-10.

That will tell us if it is the rifle or the Glass.
 
On a "precision" rifle I would expect the headspace to be on the tight side. After all close tolerance is how you define precision

I am not sure I agree with that. Yes, you want close tolerances in a precision gun but I don't think there is any real benefit from tight head space. It should be headspaced to SAMMI specs to allow factory ammo to be used. Yes, if you are reloading you can size your brass to fit the chamber better but factory ammo should be an option.

I am not an expert though. I just claim to be on the internet so take it for what it is worth. ;)
 
He hasn't done that. We are going to swap out the glass this sunday and head to the range. After doing a thorough cleaning on the RPR. The goal is to put my spare leupold scope on it just to make sure that it isn't the glass. I know my scope is good because I just upgraded the glass on my AR-10.

That will tell us if it is the rifle or the Glass.

If after the glass swap accuracy is still a problem, maybe try 5 shots without the break at the same distance, using the same rest setup (whatever it is).
 
No expert here, but that tight bolt thing with factory ammo on a 2k "new" rifle seems pretty suspicious. I would try chambering some scratch free rounds and looking them over very closely with a good glass and see if any marks or scratches appear on the case or bullet while "you are waiting for Ruger to open first thing monday morning". Just me.
 
OK, so it was the glass. We swapped mine for @SKrueger's Leupold and I was able to group at just over an inch at 200 yards. So back to Vortex this goes.

BTW @SKrueger thanks for the Leupold. It's still on my rifle. :D:p. I think we are cursed to have something forgotten about on every trip!!
 
OK, so it was the glass. We swapped mine for @SKrueger's Leupold and I was able to group at just over an inch at 200 yards. So back to Vortex this goes.

BTW @SKrueger thanks for the Leupold. It's still on my rifle. :D:p. I think we are cursed to have something forgotten about on every trip!!
Very cool. Glad you got er figured out!
 

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