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Get yourself a half-shirt and some purple hair already.
I'm the other strain of Gen-Xer; hair cut short and parted on the side, carried an M16 & M60 for Uncle Ronnie & Cousin Ollie.

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BTW- One of THE best YT channels out there…

 
Bummer for sure. If it was me I would try again so see if you can spot something that could be shorting. If not get the brand and do some searching to see what is involved with buying and installing a whole new lock. While back there was a thread here about swapping a digital with a standard S&G dial. So if nothing else works I would look that up and see if maybe yours looks like that would work? Hopefully you can find a solution that does not cost much or take a pro to do since it would be pricey.

I think that'll be my first step, popping off the rear panel and seeing if there is a wire or short. From there I think you have the right idea, perhaps replacing the electronic parts of it since something is going on that shouldn't be (if available)
 
I'm betting that it is a lock issue but also check the instructions to see if lithium batteries are okay. Many safe companies use the same or similar, likely Chinese, locks. When I called one last year with an issue they were adamant that batteries need to be alkaline only, not lithium as they will cause damage to the electronics.

I know many who use lithium, just passing along what I was told. LIBERTY appears to be one of them by the way. It appears Cannon does as well.
Most if not all electronic locks won't trigger the low battery warning with lithium batteries
 
9V batteries do not hold a charge long. If you buy the large pack from Costco, the last batteries will be close to dead when you get around to using them. Not just in safe keypads, but all electronics.

On my Liberty safe, fresh batteries last 5 - 7 years. Batteries close to the expired date last about a year.

My Liberty recommends alkaline batteries only.
 
Let's see if I can keep my thoughts centered around these posts when I quoted them.

I thought I was being slick with the keypad.. I should have known better than to have:

Bought a low grade large safe
And
Gone digital.
Lots of us have the concern of how many dollars to spend on a product. Sometimes lower end is what's affordable.
I hate dead batteries and just the thought of a lock I can't open when I need it to gives me the "Hee Bee GeeBees".
Most Boomers do.



<duck> :D
Of course we do. We like bubblegum that WORKS.
Most if not all electronic locks won't trigger the low battery warning with lithium batteries.
I can see how that works. My lithium powered tools work right up til they won't. They don't slow down and let me know the battery is dying, they just up n quit!
 
Having had to recently tear down the lock on my safe to clean out the lock guts, lube them and fix the dial bezel, I think I'll replace the electronic lock on my 2nd safe with a three wheel dial one - either La Gard or Sargent & Greenleaf. Cost will be about $150.
La Gaard recommended only teflon based lube -- I happened to have a spray can of it. So smooth now, I cannot tell when I engage the the wheels or hit the spot for linkage. It just works now, every time.
I'm always terrified of the batteries puking out their guts on the lock, rendering it useless. Why I'll never use Duraleaks again. For every ten Duraleaks that have bled out in flashlights or on electronics, I've had one or less Energizer - the brand I'm sticking with for now.
 
Let's see if I can keep my thoughts centered around these posts when I quoted them.


Lots of us have the concern of how many dollars to spend on a product. Sometimes lower end is what's affordable.
I hate dead batteries and just the thought of a lock I can't open when I need it to gives me the "Hee Bee GeeBees".

Of course we do. We like bubblegum that WORKS.

I can see how that works. My lithium powered tools work right up til they won't. They don't slow down and let me know the battery is dying, they just up n quit!
What's weird is you quoted me, but when you click on that quote it goes to what I actually posted…..

I'm a solid, poop-throwin', savage Gen-Xer! :s0118:





:s0140:


How DARE you try to paint me as saying something helpful and germane to the thread topic!!

:s0118:





BTW- I agree with (and have also observed) how lithium cells work full-on, right up to when they just….. stop.


Gone are the days of the gently tapering wind-down of NiCad cells… oh DeWalt, what have you done to us?!


;):D
 
It's interesting how people will spend thousands, even tens of thousands on guns, then buy the cheapest ammo and holsters while storing them all in a safe that cost less than some individual pistols.
 
BTW- I agree with (and have also observed) how lithium cells work full-on, right up to when they just….. stop.
I tend to think that it's the "Tool" that ceases running when the voltage drops to a certain point. Sumthin' to do with them lectronic "chip" things, maybe?
 
FYI it's better for tools and other devices to have constant voltage throughout the battery packs charge. The old school days of the packs slowly winding down over the course of a dozen or so screws wasn't actually good for the battery pack or the tool. Modern battery packs are Li-Ion with regulation to make sure the voltage stays constant. This is a good thing. :D

Technology isn't as evil as some suggest. :D
 
FYI it's better for tools and other devices to have constant voltage throughout the battery packs charge. The old school days of the packs slowly winding down over the course of a dozen or so screws wasn't actually good for the battery pack or the tool. Modern battery packs are Li-Ion with regulation to make sure the voltage stays constant. This is a good thing. :D

Technology isn't as evil as some suggest. :D
Modern flashlights are set up the same way.
 

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