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Seems very clean if you ask me.
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The trigger assembly is WW2, but used a little later than your serial. Nov 44 to Jan 45. Probably exchanged with another M1 while in the field. Pretty much all parts are fully interchangeable with any other USGI Garand.Thanks for the opinions and suggestions. I'm getting some great feedback and I appreciate it. Here are some pics of the trigger housing. Not sure if the serial numbers help with the history of this rifle.
D28290-14-SA
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No, I don't see any markings like that.The trigger assembly is WW2, but used a little later than your serial. Nov 44 to Jan 45. Probably exchanged with another M1 while in the field. Pretty much all parts are fully interchangeable with any other USGI Garand.
Any hand etched markings on the side of the receiver body similar to this? This would indicate a rebuild at one of Arsenals and year it was rebuilt.
View attachment 1072264
From my point of view. Garand trigger groups are pretty generic. Pretty hard to get one with the original sinceThanks for the opinions and suggestions. I'm getting some great feedback and I appreciate it. Here are some pics of the trigger housing. Not sure if the serial numbers help with the history of this rifle.
D28290-14-SA
View attachment 1072228 View attachment 1072229
This. ^^^^ That rifle is way better than the service grade I got. I still love it no matter what though. I do have slightly better M and T measurements though. Some non SA trigger parts too. And TA over '65 on the front right receiver leg. But sheesh, I've got non pitted rust staining above the wood on the receiver that doesn't come off. And the upper hand guard looks like they pounded nails with it.Nice score! I wonder why CMP graded it a field grade. It is way better than service grades I have received from them and probably better than most service grades they sell.
The lugs on the trigger guard are in excellent condition. It definitely looks like an USGI armory rebuild that has little to no use since rebuild. I would have bet money it would have an etched rebuild mark on the receiver leg.
The numbers you see on the op rod, receiver leg and bolt are the drawing number the parts were machined to and heat treatment lot number. As they went through production, slight modifications were made so the drawing number revision was changed. The revision number is the "-##" after the drawing number. The heat treating lot numbers are added after the drawing number on the receiver and bolt. The drawing number revision is used to date when the parts were manufactured.
Ser# (on the Garand) is on the receiver's heel.Thanks for the opinions and suggestions. I'm getting some great feedback and I appreciate it. Here are some pics of the trigger housing. Not sure if the serial numbers help with the history of this rifle.
D28290-14-SA
View attachment 1072228 View attachment 1072229
For that money, there was no need for a gas tube holder. Heck, mine came of with jsuy finger pressure. and not much of that. Gas plug could probably be removed using a big screwdriver, padded, and with not using enough force to goob anything up. I did buy the one above for mine though. But it didn't take much to loosen it.Go fill up yer cart from here: https://www.garandgear.com/
I like their gas plug and gas tube holder.
I did snug the gas plug down a bit more as I realized it should have been tighter. I guess ol' #16 (CMP armorer) knew I'd have to take it apart to lube and inspect anyway.Not the wrench, Mike, but the holder, the brace, very handy, and, frankly if you got the plug out with your fingers, it wasn't tightened enough.
Got one of those bolt hold open things being delivered today! 7 bucks on Amazon.This. ^^^^ That rifle is way better than the service grade I got. I still love it no matter what though. I do have slightly better M and T measurements though. Some non SA trigger parts too. And TA over '65 on the front right receiver leg. But sheesh, I've got non pitted rust staining above the wood on the receiver that doesn't come off. And the upper hand guard looks like they pounded nails with it.
Just sayin', you got an incredible rifle there!
I got one of these. I'd say pretty much a necessity.
bolt hold open for cleaning garand - Google Shopping
www.google.com
And depending on your gas plug. You should have one of these....
And I was using white lithium grease and switched, (because of input here) to Mobil 1 synthetic.
I feel like I'll be on a first name basis with them soonGo fill up yer cart from here: https://www.garandgear.com/
I like their gas plug and gas tube holder.
Your stock looks pretty good now, compared to the one they sent me. I tried using mineral spirits first, but it didn't do much. I used denatured alcohol and it cleaned the whitish hazing of real well. I used 3/0 steel wool. You could try just using a rag first. If that didn't clean to where you liked then try steel wool. That will take the oils off the stock Afterward I diluted BLO with mineral spirits(paint thinner) 1 part spirits to 2 parts BLO. I wiped that on once a day for three days letting it dry for 24 hours. I had it in the house within 6' of the wood stove Rubbed any excess oil that didn't soak in before hitting it again with the BLO/spirits mix. I was quite happy with the results. The stock ended up dull in appearance, but the tiger striping was brought out better than before.Anyone got a recommendation for cleaning the stock? Soap and water? Gun oil?