Received: First M1 Garand (opinions please)

wolfcreed

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Thanks for the opinions and suggestions. I'm getting some great feedback and I appreciate it. Here are some pics of the trigger housing. Not sure if the serial numbers help with the history of this rifle.

D28290-14-SA

View attachment 1072228 View attachment 1072229
The trigger assembly is WW2, but used a little later than your serial. Nov 44 to Jan 45. Probably exchanged with another M1 while in the field. Pretty much all parts are fully interchangeable with any other USGI Garand.

Any hand etched markings on the side of the receiver body similar to this? This would indicate a rebuild at one of Arsenals and year it was rebuilt.

6205E366-FBCC-483B-B2D5-31D3CC3A597F.jpeg
 

Pahonix

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The trigger assembly is WW2, but used a little later than your serial. Nov 44 to Jan 45. Probably exchanged with another M1 while in the field. Pretty much all parts are fully interchangeable with any other USGI Garand.

Any hand etched markings on the side of the receiver body similar to this? This would indicate a rebuild at one of Arsenals and year it was rebuilt.

View attachment 1072264
No, I don't see any markings like that.
 
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Nice score! I wonder why CMP graded it a field grade. It is way better than service grades I have received from them and probably better than most service grades they sell.

The lugs on the trigger guard are in excellent condition. It definitely looks like an USGI armory rebuild that has little to no use since rebuild. I would have bet money it would have an etched rebuild mark on the receiver leg.

The numbers you see on the op rod, receiver leg and bolt are the drawing number the parts were machined to and heat treatment lot number. As they went through production, slight modifications were made so the drawing number revision was changed. The revision number is the "-##" after the drawing number. The heat treating lot numbers are added after the drawing number on the receiver and bolt. The drawing number revision is used to date when the parts were manufactured.
 
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Thanks for the opinions and suggestions. I'm getting some great feedback and I appreciate it. Here are some pics of the trigger housing. Not sure if the serial numbers help with the history of this rifle.

D28290-14-SA

View attachment 1072228 View attachment 1072229
From my point of view. Garand trigger groups are pretty generic. Pretty hard to get one with the original since
the guns are broken up for storage then reassembled. I marvel at how these trigger groups are built like a tank.

Spambo
 

Moeca

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Glad there was no rust in there. My last one had just a little but was a easy clean up.
Man this is making me want to order another! I've had good luck with the ones I received but nothing like this for a field grade.
It will be a great shooter.
 

Pahonix

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Thanks everyone! I really appreciate the knowledge and opinions.

After watching brownell videos on disassemblly and reassembly, I got it apart and cleaned up. I have haven't touched the barrel yet though, waiting on parts. It was not that dirty, I was surprised. Per some feedback from you all, I ordered a few things.

CMP log book
CMP web sling (although I think I want a leather one now)
Bore guide
Chamber brush
Garand bolt dummy
2 round clip
1 round sled
Going to fisherman's tomorrow to pickup a brass bore brush. I already have a one piece cleaning rod.

I have 200 rounds of Garand ammo I purchased from a member here on the site so I think that will get me started. I'll likely buy more soon.
 
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ron

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Looks like you have a good start. Look for Midway to put shooting matts on sale around Christmas time.
The match at DRRC has spotting scopes and shooting matts for loan. All the new shooters will have a
experienced shooter as a coach. New shooters are given more time for the rapids and help spotting shots,
scoring, position and sling use. This match will be at 100 yards with 'Reduced' scoring targets. You will see
a lot of M1 rifles but several AR's and some O3A3s. Before you buy a lot of shooting equipment check out
what the other shooters are using. Also used equipment is sometimes available at the matches.
Schedule
 
Last Edited:

Mikej

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Nice score! I wonder why CMP graded it a field grade. It is way better than service grades I have received from them and probably better than most service grades they sell.

The lugs on the trigger guard are in excellent condition. It definitely looks like an USGI armory rebuild that has little to no use since rebuild. I would have bet money it would have an etched rebuild mark on the receiver leg.

The numbers you see on the op rod, receiver leg and bolt are the drawing number the parts were machined to and heat treatment lot number. As they went through production, slight modifications were made so the drawing number revision was changed. The revision number is the "-##" after the drawing number. The heat treating lot numbers are added after the drawing number on the receiver and bolt. The drawing number revision is used to date when the parts were manufactured.
This. ^^^^ That rifle is way better than the service grade I got. I still love it no matter what though. I do have slightly better M and T measurements though. Some non SA trigger parts too. And TA over '65 on the front right receiver leg. But sheesh, I've got non pitted rust staining above the wood on the receiver that doesn't come off. And the upper hand guard looks like they pounded nails with it.

Just sayin', you got an incredible rifle there!

I got one of these. I'd say pretty much a necessity.

And depending on your gas plug. You should have one of these....

And I was using white lithium grease and switched, (because of input here) to Mobil 1 synthetic.
 

ma96782

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Thanks for the opinions and suggestions. I'm getting some great feedback and I appreciate it. Here are some pics of the trigger housing. Not sure if the serial numbers help with the history of this rifle.

D28290-14-SA

View attachment 1072228 View attachment 1072229
Ser# (on the Garand) is on the receiver's heel.

The numbers that you see on the various "parts" are drawing numbers. Yes, it helps (to date the part).....as the drawing (*and parts) were changed when needed for "improvements."

No need to match the correct era of the parts# to the receiver ser#. UNLESS, you plan to "make" a correct Garand.

Yeah.....I'm GUILTY of doing that ONCE.

And, it can be tough (sometimes) to find the correct parts (by the drawing numbers) in order to match the era of the ser#. The parts situation just ain't what it used to be. Not to mention, the price on some parts that are today considered to be "collector parts".

And, there are various books available that can guide/assist you to matching the part# with your rifle's birth date.

*Changes could be very slight (NOT talking about the "Gas Trap Garands"). So for the most part.....parts were not willy nilly changed out, just for change sake. Further, imagine that you have a box of parts sitting on your bench waiting to be assembled into a rifle. OK....so, the box gets low. And, so you fill up the box. OMG.....yeah....what about those parts at the bottom of the box?

Was it a MAJOR sin?
Or.....hey, as long as the rifle works and we can get them out to the boys on the front line?

Parts interchangeability is a GOOD THING.

Aloha, Mark
 
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Mikej

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Go fill up yer cart from here: https://www.garandgear.com/
I like their gas plug and gas tube holder.
For that money, there was no need for a gas tube holder. Heck, mine came of with jsuy finger pressure. and not much of that. Gas plug could probably be removed using a big screwdriver, padded, and with not using enough force to goob anything up. I did buy the one above for mine though. But it didn't take much to loosen it.
 
Not the wrench, Mike, but the holder, the brace, very handy, and, frankly if you got the plug out with your fingers, it wasn't tightened enough.
 

Mikej

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Not the wrench, Mike, but the holder, the brace, very handy, and, frankly if you got the plug out with your fingers, it wasn't tightened enough.
I did snug the gas plug down a bit more as I realized it should have been tighter. I guess ol' #16 (CMP armorer) knew I'd have to take it apart to lube and inspect anyway.
 

Pahonix

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This. ^^^^ That rifle is way better than the service grade I got. I still love it no matter what though. I do have slightly better M and T measurements though. Some non SA trigger parts too. And TA over '65 on the front right receiver leg. But sheesh, I've got non pitted rust staining above the wood on the receiver that doesn't come off. And the upper hand guard looks like they pounded nails with it.

Just sayin', you got an incredible rifle there!

I got one of these. I'd say pretty much a necessity.

And depending on your gas plug. You should have one of these....

And I was using white lithium grease and switched, (because of input here) to Mobil 1 synthetic.
Got one of those bolt hold open things being delivered today! 7 bucks on Amazon.

I'll see about ordering one of those. That's the last area I haven't addressed/cleaned/inspected yet.

Thanks for the advice!
 

Mikej

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Anyone got a recommendation for cleaning the stock? Soap and water? Gun oil?
Your stock looks pretty good now, compared to the one they sent me. I tried using mineral spirits first, but it didn't do much. I used denatured alcohol and it cleaned the whitish hazing of real well. I used 3/0 steel wool. You could try just using a rag first. If that didn't clean to where you liked then try steel wool. That will take the oils off the stock Afterward I diluted BLO with mineral spirits(paint thinner) 1 part spirits to 2 parts BLO. I wiped that on once a day for three days letting it dry for 24 hours. I had it in the house within 6' of the wood stove Rubbed any excess oil that didn't soak in before hitting it again with the BLO/spirits mix. I was quite happy with the results. The stock ended up dull in appearance, but the tiger striping was brought out better than before.
 

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