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There is a CMP sponsored match at Albany Rifle Pistol Club every month for the M1 Garand and Carbines.

its 20 bucks to use their ammo and 3 bucks for the match.

I did it with winchester Service grade that I bought 15 years ago and I did well at 247 total with 2 X into it also...standing. :cool:

I invite anyone with WWII rifles to give it a try.

It's not that hard to do.

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There is a CMP sponsored match at Albany Rifle Pistol Club every month for the M1 Garand and Carbines.

its 20 bucks to use their ammo and 3 bucks for the match.

I did it with winchester Service grade that I bought 15 years ago and I did well at 247 total with 2 X into it also...standing. :cool:

I invite anyone with WWII rifles to give it a try.

It's not that hard to do.

View attachment 1436016 View attachment 1436017 View attachment 1436018
It's been on my mind to try this. Do you need a shooting jacket and glasses and a stand and all of that other stuff?

I have two Service Grade Garands that I shoot offhand all the time but I didn't really want to buy all that other gear. I have too much junk everywhere as is.
 
It's been on my mind to try this. Do you need a shooting jacket and glasses and a stand and all of that other stuff?

I have two Service Grade Garands that I shoot offhand all the time but I didn't really want to buy all that other gear. I have too much junk everywhere as is.
Bare minimum; binoculars, a shooting mat, and a sling.

I use a cheap moving blanket as a shooting mat, and for a sling you want an M1 or M1907 sling you can setup for shooting prone/sitting.
Depending on the range, a pair of binos or spotting scope to score/view your target is necessary.
 
Conventional wisdom tells us that it's not really small arms that win wars, but if you ever fire an M1 Garand side by side with a Carcano M41, you'll start to wonder whether that's true.

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Bare minimum; binoculars, a shooting mat, and a sling.

I use a cheap moving blanket as a shooting mat, and for a sling you want an M1 or M1907 sling you can setup for shooting prone/sitting.
Depending on the range, a pair of binos or spotting scope to score/view your target is necessary.
spotting scope if your shooting past 100 yrds
hard to see a 30 cal hole out at 200 yrds with binoculars
I have a Kowa 77mm 20X scope
my son could watch the thermal path of a .308 down range for 200 yrds and call the hit just by the thermals
in the old days, you had someone down in the butts past 200 yrds

even back in Basic in '68, I had to pull butts on the rifle range
a 5.56 hole is even harder to see
 
spotting scope if your shooting past 100 yrds
hard to see a 30 cal hole out at 200 yrds with binoculars
I have a Kowa 77mm 20X scope
my son could watch the thermal path of a .308 down range for 200 yrds and call the hit just by the thermals
in the old days, you had someone down in the butts past 200 yrds

even back in Basic in '68, I had to pull butts on the rifle range
a 5.56 hole is even harder to see
if your shooting your Garand in 30-06, note a standard course of fire is 100 rnds
I shot my first competition when I was 40 - the Garand beat me black and blue
I borrowed a jacket after that until I acquired an old Marine Corp shooting jacket
even on the first shoot, I was put on a scratch team, I didn't shoot alone
got lots of advise and they even loaned me equipment - at least one of the team had a jacket and spotting scope
you will need a 2 rnd clip ( shoot 8 and 2) and a SLED (single load enhanced devise) for slow fire
 
Except for the US 1917 Enfield. "Cock on Close" 1917 design pushes the rifle off the shoulder
in rapid fire.:confused::confused::confused::confused:
RE : Cock on close rifles

Yeah.....I wondered about that AFTER I got ahold of a SMLE. Seems to me.....that it's all wrong. But what do I know?

It must be a British thing.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

IMHO.....
Speaking of the major players from WW2, firing full power rifles that I've owned and BTW, I haven't owned an Arisaka or Carcano. I'd rate them as follows :

1) Garand
2) Mauser 98 (variants)
3) Springfield 1903A3 and the 1903 (better sights on the 1903A3)
4) SMLE (I haven't tried the No 4)

Anyway......that's just my $0.02.

Aloha, Mark

PS......The 91/30 Mosin Nagant, M38 and M44 ranks #5. Dealing with the rimmed cartridges are the "Biggest Problem". That is..... starting with.....feeding the loaded stripper clips into the magazine. Then, dealing with the "rim loc and clearing problems".
 
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I was just shooting my Enfield #4 Mk1 recently, thinking what a great rifle it is. I do like the Mausers, but the old Enfield definitely has it's advantages. When you know how to use it, it's a really slick, fast shooting rifle, plus the ten round capacity. Personally I might be tempted to put the Enfield above the Mauser, but it's a tough call.

I have to agree with you about the Mosin; as much as I like them, they are a clunky rifle. I've read more than once that that's by design though, that they do very well in frozen Russian weather conditions that tends to freeze up other rifles. I don't know how true that is, never been in those conditions myself.

I also have to agree about the Garand being head and shoulders above any other commonly issued rifle of the period. I sure like mine!
 
PS......The 91/30 Mosin Nagant, M38 and M44 ranks #5. Dealing with the rimmed cartridges are the "Biggest Problem". That is..... starting with.....feeding the loaded stripper clips into the magazine. Then, dealing with the "rim loc and clearing problems".
Mosin compensated for the rim lock issue in 1891 with the disconnector
if your getting rim lock, you disconnector is missadjusted
most of the armory rebuilds just add a 2 piece disconnector put in without tuning them
I prefer the once piece disconnector out of the original 1891
drops right in to a 91/30, if you can find one
the same with loading a stripper clip, the disconector has to be filed to work propery
 
If talking about WW2-era bolt actions specifically, the under-appreciated ones genuinely seem better than legendary ones, at least to me. My choices would end up being:

1. Japanese Type 38 carbine: super light, handy, low-recoil, extremely smooth-cycling and well-made, quality no lesser than what we see even from the Swiss, except they actually made it mechanically simple, the bolt can basically be taken apart with one hand tied behind your back.

2. French MAS-36: largely same as above although not quite as nicely made and not as low recoil, but still lighter and handier than most of its contemporaries, has decent sights, and similarly easy to disassemble.

3. Swedish M38: just excellent build quality, excellent accuracy, perfect balance, fantastic cartridge.

Of course it's subjective but I prefer all of the above compared to my K98's, Enfields, etc.
 
Mosin compensated for the rim lock issue in 1891 with the disconnector
if your getting rim lock, you disconnector is missadjusted
most of the armory rebuilds just add a 2 piece disconnector put in without tuning them
I prefer the once piece disconnector out of the original 1891
drops right in to a 91/30, if you can find one
the same with loading a stripper clip, the disconector has to be filed to work propery
for all Mosin shooters, this will solve your rim lock problem, I have the one piece disconnector in all my Mosins

 
A 1934-dated Berthier carbine. A very light, handy, well-made carbine but with a magazine capacity of only 3 rounds and requiring a screwdriver to even remove the bolt from the rifle, it seems like a strange rifle to not have just been replaced by the mid 1930's.

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Isn't that 8 X 5o a real shoulder killer?
It does pack a wallop out of such a light rifle but I've not really ever fired more than maybe 20 rounds at time just because the ammo isn't super cheap or available so it hasn't really ever left me with a sore shoulder.
 
Since I was sending the pics to for another purpose, i thought I would post my three k98ks. First two, a 38 Erma and 39 BLM are bolt matching sporter rescues, purchased from members here, and third is an all matching, but salty CE41.


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