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If you are making the blocks, maybe leave a hole down the center and then use a 2-3 foot piece of rebar down the center like a big nail into the ground.
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Man that sucks. Some people don't have any damn respect.How valuable is a brick? You know, the kind made with concrete and embeded in the ground? I suppose it's more valuable if it has numbers and an arrow painted on it.
Well, apparently, someone thinks they are valuable. Only 2 bricks remain at lane 2. PUNKS!
So let us know if you happen to notice a brick with a number and an arrow on it in someones yard. I'd like to go kick some tail!
Today was the first time I was able to see them and the two that remain look awesome, really could have used the 10 yard marker. I really do hope we can find something that works, it's a great idea.Well, that didn't take long. I'm making up drawing for version 2 now. A somewhat larger hole to imbed a 60lb trapezoidal block, with the small face up. Should be cheap to make, at a single bag of concrete each. Hopefully they'll take more force to get out of the ground than your average jerk is willing to muster. I'll run some sketches by you and @Reno911 to get the blessing from the powers that be before I build a casting form.
Drill to bedrock and pour a slab of concrete up to 6 inches below the surface, then make custom molds at the distances that are held in place above the still wet concrete and pour the markers on top so it ends up as one solid slab of concrete, then fill in dirt until only the markers show and paint 'em. It would take a dang long time to cure completely but they wouldn't be getting those markers!It's hard to say if they were stolen or shot at.
The 25 yard marker I almost missed as it was covered with mud.
We will get it figured out. The markers were a great, just need to get on the drawing book for a longer lasting version.
This may work with the pavers embedded into the Sakrete.Or 24" deep post hole, backfill with fastest concrete.
That would work and would not attract vandals.All this concrete pouring and digging is becoming rather involved. And to think of future re-grading or gravel removal, this could create a lot of extra work. Gotta go back to simple, low cost and easy to replace
I'm liking the Whiskers. Nail them in. Not a big project and 1 person can put them in in no time. Done. Easy to replace and inexpensive.
And we can not tell new people at future clean-ups about them and watch how many try to pull them out But seriously, that's a great idea and would hold up to the occasional random 'friendly fire'.All this concrete pouring and digging is becoming rather involved. And to think of future re-grading or gravel removal, this could create a lot of extra work. Gotta go back to simple, low cost and easy to replace
I'm liking the Whiskers. Nail them in. Not a big project and 1 person can put them in in no time. Done. Easy to replace and inexpensive.
All this concrete pouring and digging is becoming rather involved. And to think of future re-grading or gravel removal, this could create a lot of extra work. Gotta go back to simple, low cost and easy to replace
I'm liking the Whiskers. Nail them in. Not a big project and 1 person can put them in in no time. Done. Easy to replace and inexpensive.
You won't need any nails.Ha! I just ordered 75 last night in assorted colors! Bummer. It was only $20 so no big deal. However, I didn't order any nails or stakes. Do you have those?
Thanks.
If we mark every 10 yards and 2 flags per mark (1 on each side of the lane), we would need about 6-8 for lane 2 and 12-14 for lane 3.You won't need any nails.
I'll check here on the jobsite to see if there are any around.
Surveyors and sometimes "dirt" guys will have them.
They are called "hub" stakes.
How many are needed ?
I don't have any here.If we mark every 10 yards and 2 flags per mark (1 on each side of the lane), we would need about 6-8 for lane 2 and 12-14 for lane 3.
I would think alternating the color each 10 yards would help when counting.
I don't have any here.
My excavator says that Shurway in Vancouver has them 25/$13.99
At 2x2x12 they will probably have to be cut down.
Or a guy could just make them on a chop saw out of 2x2 material
Do a 4 way tip for best driving results
Yes, use a steel stake (or rebar) to pilot hole for the wood hub stake.If you use a steel concrete stake to "pre drill" the hole, you can get a 12" grade hub to go. Another option instead of a wood hub is a 60d/60 penny nail.
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