JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
Messages
979
Reactions
2,605
I have successfully been reloading 9mm for about 6 months now and am getting ready to process .223 and 30 carbine. Currently, I have a Dillon xl 650 and a single stage RCBS RC to work with.

My question has to do with the method of resizing. I plan to deprime and resize small batches on the RC and keep the mess of the lube out of the Dillon. I can then trim, debur, camphor and clean again before deciding to finish loading either small batches on the RC or larger ones on the Dillon.

However, what do you guys do if you then do the rest of your loading on the Dillon? Do you leave station one open and start with powder drop in station 2?

I have both RCBS .233 dies as well as Dillon. Do you ever resize twice - once with lube in the RC and then again after cleaning put it through the Dillon? Or do you have the Dillon sizing die installed in station 1 but spun up to not do anything but be a place holder?

Thanks in advance for helping me past my ignorance.
 
I just use the same press and change out the dies as needed. As for lube everyone has their own that they like. I myself use Hornady One Shot to lube my cases cause it skips the extra cleaning step others need. You don't have to reclean them and it won't affect powder or primers like most lubes do.
 
If you're using a decap-resizer die you can lube the case then decap and resize in the same go and than full clean them. You'll also need to add a little lube when seating bullets as well to have the case move smoothly in the seater die. One Shot is good for this since you just spray the case(s) and let it dry and it won't hurt the powder or primer.
 
I use a decaping die in a single stage press. Then wash , tumble, and prime the cases. When I'm ready to load on a progressive press I remove the depriming stem from the sizing die and run them as normal.
This does a couple things for my progressive press.
It removes the carbon and spent primers from gunking up my press.
and it takes the priming function away from the progressive. [ that's where 90% of all my hang ups were from anyway.] DR
 
One more thing, the 30 carbine cases can be trimmed before processing, but when you get to the bottle neck cases of the 223 you will want to resize before trimming. Good Luck DR
 
I have successfully been reloading 9mm for about 6 months now and am getting ready to process .223 and 30 carbine. Currently, I have a Dillon xl 650 and a single stage RCBS RC to work with.

My question has to do with the method of resizing. I plan to deprime and resize small batches on the RC and keep the mess of the lube out of the Dillon. I can then trim, debur, camphor and clean again before deciding to finish loading either small batches on the RC or larger ones on the Dillon.

However, what do you guys do if you then do the rest of your loading on the Dillon? Do you leave station one open and start with powder drop in station 2?

I have both RCBS .233 dies as well as Dillon. Do you ever resize twice - once with lube in the RC and then again after cleaning put it through the Dillon? Or do you have the Dillon sizing die installed in station 1 but spun up to not do anything but be a place holder?

Thanks in advance for helping me past my ignorance.
I would not resize twice. You're just overworking your brass at that point. If it were me, after sized, trimmed and chamfered, I'd just leave station 1 unoccupied and use the Dillon for priming through bullet seating unless you're hand priming the brass. If so, start with the powder drop station.
 
It works for me so.......

When loading straight-wall pistol cartridges, I use my progressive machine.

When loading the bottle-necked rifle cartridges, I use my single stage.

Aloha, Mark
 
How are you going to deal wit ironing out the primer pocket?
Dillon swage...


My intent was to:

- decap with FN Arms popper
- clean with S/S pins
- resize
- trim, deburr, campher, swage
- decide to load on single stage or progressive depending on size of run

My original question related to the progressive choice with what to do with station 1 if the cases were already sized. Based on the responses it looks like I will leave it empty (assuming they don't fall over ), followed by dropping powder, powder check, bullet seat, and bullet crimp.
 
Last Edited:
I use a decaping die in a single stage press. Then wash , tumble, and prime the cases. When I'm ready to load on a progressive press I remove the depriming stem from the sizing die and run them as normal.
This does a couple things for my progressive press.
It removes the carbon and spent primers from gunking up my press.
and it takes the priming function away from the progressive. [ that's where 90% of all my hang ups were from anyway.] DR
I do mine like that also, except that I hand Prime. I feel like I get a better primer seat with the hand primer. And oh man, a lot less cleaning and maintenance and issues on the progressive when you get all the grime off before the cases go in.
 
I do mine like that also, except that I hand Prime. I feel like I get a better primer seat with the hand primer. And oh man, a lot less cleaning and maintenance and issues on the progressive when you get all the grime off before the cases go in.
I have purchased the RC primer arm and auto feed tube. I figured I would give it a try and see if I liked it. This would give me the option of either using the single stage or use the progressive for priming. I have heard that a lot of people like the hand prime method but haven't tried it myself.
 
You can feel them on the press as well. Of course it takes many sessions of "wax on, wax off" to get the hang of it :D

You can especially "feel them" when you get them in sideways :p
 
I like to watch TV while hand priming. I really doesn't matter that it doesn't have my full attention; you can't double prime a case.
And I am sure it makes things more interesting when you vacuum the room...

boom.png

Stay safe OP! ;)
 
You can feel them on the press as well. Of course it takes many sessions of "wax on, wax off" to get the hang of it :D

You can especially "feel them" when you get them in sideways :p
Both RCBS and Dillion presses have not much mechanical advantage for priming. It is easy to tell anything from a loose pocket to a problem like a military crimp. You really have to force the handle to damage a primer.

I reload in such volume, I avoid anything that adds a step in the process or is slow. I was running a 3000 case batch a few weeks ago. I spent an hour to modify the trimmer to take it from about 12 seconds to 4 seconds per case and saved 5 hours of trimming.
 
.I reload in such volume, I avoid anything that adds a step in the process or is slow..
This is why I've only ever cleaned probably 100 primer pockets in my life. Wash/ultrasound, whatever, dry good, load.. in my case, an auto-inde ing 4-stage Lee turret.. I'll remove the indexing rod if I use it as a single-stage which is rare.
 

Upcoming Events

Teen Rifle 1 Class
Springfield, OR
Kids Firearm Safety 2 Class
Springfield, OR
Arms Collectors of Southwest Washington (ACSWW) gun show
Battle Ground, WA

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top