New S&W revolver reliability problems

[Cerberus Group]

I'm passing along some information about possible rounds not going off in certain new S&W revolvers. I was unaware of such a problem, but an article over on revolverguy.com about the UC Ti revolvers brought it out.

Read here https://revolverguy.com/sw-432-ultimate-carry-ti-review/

The problem stems from short firing pins not reliably activating primers, as well as tolerance stacking from excessive headspace from the cylinder to the recoil shield area...I'll quote here;

Possible Ignition Reliability Causes
I am equipped with a theory regarding ignition reliability. First, the trigger on this revolver is very light. I tend to believe this gun is operating at the lower end of the reliability envelope, for the sake of a better trigger. While it will ignite American-made ammunition, the harder primers in South American (Magtech) and European (S&B) ammo challenge the light springs. Personally, I'd rather contend with an extra pound of trigger pull in exchange for reliable ignition. [Editor's Note: Noted Gunsmith Nelson Ford has described how the UC springs have a reduced diameter to reduce their energy]

Second, the shortened firing pins on S&W revolvers probably have something to do with it, as well. These are informally known as "California firing pins," and have been put in S&W guns for decades to improve drop-safety. Now, so-called, "extended" firing pins from the likes of Apex and Cylinder & Slide are actually the original length. Replacing the OEM firing pin in the UC (or really any J-, K-, or L-Frame) revolver may result in an improvement in ignition reliability.

Finally, Smith & Wesson appears to have some headspacing issues with some revolvers. When coupled with the short firing pins, a multiplicative effect occurs that negatively impacts reliability.
I recommend extensively testing with ANY ammunition before depending on it. It would take far more ammunition than would be cost- or time-effective to restore my confidence in either of these specimen, or frankly, in this model generally." End quote.

I kinda have a dog in the fight, as I own High Desert Cartridge Company, and some have told me that some rounds are not going off, mainly the rounds loaded with CCI primers. The above might be the cause. I myself have not experienced such an event with my or any other ammo, but it is one thing to check before blaming the ammo...it just might be the gun.

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[Tlock]

Good to know. I've been very interested in the new series of mountain guns. The original mountain gun would be my first choice but they are harder to find and more expensive

 

[Cerberus Group]

Good to know. I've been very interested in the new series of mountain guns. The original mountain gun would be my first choice but they are harder to find and more expensive

The last few years I have installed extended firing pins for people, most recently for @orygun because of erratic ignition.

 

[Medic!]

Who owns S&W this week?

 

[orygun]

The last few years I have installed extended firing pins for people, most recently for @orygun because of erratic ignition.

He sure did and fixed what S&W wouldn't/couldn't/didn't. It was a fairly obvious problem, too.

 

[orygun]

Our old friend Tim (Velzey) had a thread specifically about 329s with this problem. That's the gun I have, a 329PD.

 

[CO136]

Awesome info! I have a new 432 UC (SOA Limited), not a titanium model and have not experienced any issues yet, but only have ~100 rounds through it. Time will tell I suppose.

However, in recent times my wife and I were out practicing, shooting .38 Spl. I had some European / Turkish ? .38 Spl ammo that my wife's S&W 640 absolutely would not lite off consistently. This 640 was a recent purchase. That ammo ran fine in my Ruger LCR.

Got me some homework to do. Thank you very much for this info as it may well be applicable!

 

[dangerranger60]

I knew there were some differences in guns made for the CA market but did not know of them having short firing pins.
I have a recently made 642 that came with heavier main spring, trigger return spring, and a much heavier firing pin return spring.
I have not had any ignition problems. I did change the springs to give a smoother trigger pull.

Is there a visual way to know if I have a shorter firing pin? or should I just change it next time it's opened up? It has not had any light strikes. DR

 

[Cerberus Group]

If you're seeing this, change out the firing pin.

You'll also be able to use lighter springs etc with the longer firing pin.

 

[CountryGent]

Thanks for the info. I've shot up a bunch of .32 S&W, .32 S&W Long (round nose and WC) and .32 H&R Magnum in a 632 UC. I've had a total of two (2) failures to fire on the Magtech brand, .32 S&W Long, round nose. A second strike and it went off on both. Everything else, it just chewed through it with no issue. So, maybe explains the anomalies.

 

[orygun]

Thanks for the info. I've shot up a bunch of .32 S&W, .32 S&W Long (round nose and WC) and .32 H&R Magnum in a 632 UC. I've had a total of two (2) failures to fire on the Magtech brand, .32 S&W Long, round nose. A second strike and it went off on both. Everything else, it just chewed through it with no issue. So, maybe explains the anomalies.

If you had the same issue as I did with my 329, you wouldn't have "chewed through" all of that ammo. My failure rate was more than 50%. Extremely disheartening.

 

[aasbra]

I have a 929 that I picked up 6-7 years ago. All of my S&W revolvers are older, pre lock models made in the 1990s or prior except for this 929 and a model 63 that I bought a coupe years ago.

The 929 gave me ignition problems from the start. I did put in lighter springs, which compounded the problem and the failure rate was quite high. I went back to the stock springs and it was less severe, but still light strikes. Nearly all of my ammo is reloads, I tried different primers, and federal primers were more consistent, but I think that I still had FTF. Also tried some factory ammo.

I installed an Apex extended firing pin (frame mounted in this model) which fixed the issue so far, I believe; I don't recall having any further issues.

Was a pretty easy and inexpensive solution, but not one I would think should be necessary on a new firearm from a reputable manufacturer for a gun with MSRP of over $1,000 back when I purchased it.

All that said, I really like this revolver and enjoy shooting it.

 

[jordanvraptor]

I had the same issue with my 329PD. Changed out the firing pin and no more light strikes. On another note, I actually had the key lock safety engage during firing. It locks the trigger to the rear and you can't open the cylinder. The key was of course in its case at home so I had to remove the sideplate to reset the lock. It only happened once, but it was a major factor for me in selling the revolver.

 

[orygun]

I had the same issue with my 329PD. Changed out the firing pin and no more light strikes. On another note, I actually had the key lock safety engage during firing. It locks the trigger to the rear and you can't open the cylinder. The key was of course in its case at home so I had to remove the sideplate to reset the lock. It only happened once, but it was a major factor for me in selling the revolver.

When I had the firing pin changed, I also had the lock removed. I've heard that the lock can possibly be set by recoil, and this 329 has plenty of that!

 

[dangerranger60]

If you're seeing this, change out the firing pin.

You'll also be able to use lighter springs etc with the longer firing pin.

View attachment 2194490

I have not had any light strikes, I did change out the springs including the FP return spring. [ the Wolf spring is much lighter]. And I have [ visually ] good FP protrusion. But thanks for the pic. DR