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I bought a bunch of 1x brass for my .223, fully prepped but not primed. Really good stuff, very consistent. One of the consistent measurements is neck diameter. The inside diameter is .215" or .216", which differs from my neck sizing measurements. When I neck size the diameter is very consistent at .219" to .220".

When loading bullets I can really tell the difference. Since neck tension is a key factor in consistent accuracy I would like to get all of my brass to .219" or .220."

My question is, will I adversely affect my Lee collet die by running the brass through my neck sizer, or would it be better simply to pass the neck over the expander ball on my FL sizing die?




P
 
Well.......say it this way.

Remember that thread about shooting someone else's reloads?

So......how much do you want to trust.....with someone's "fully prepped brass"? Or even say, "new" brass?

Aloha, Mark
 
If the LEE collet dies are neck size only, then no problem. If they are FL, then you would need to lube and process as normal. If the brass fits your chambers, then neck size only - the caveat being that semis often prefer FL sizing, but may tolerate a few neck-only firings. As to neck ID, that is determined by the LEE collet mandrel and IIRC, they are available in different diameters. You can also chuck the expander plug into a drill or drill press and use 800-1200 grit wet or dry followed by emery cloth to bring the diameter down 0.001" or so until you get the desired neck tension. Some of this is cut and try.
 
I'd say, either or should not be cause for much contemplation, following tool recommended procedures, do whichever works best for you.
Personally, if the brass is otherwise good, just fix what you consider broke.
 
My question is, will I adversely affect my Lee collet die by running the brass through my neck sizer, or would it be better simply to pass the neck over the expander ball on my FL sizing die?

And later....
Buying used brass is a thing I don't worry about.

It's very common. A business, even.




P
I would NOT worry about my dies more than my brass. Steel vs Brass

My post #2, was a "response".

Since you asked about the particular size (neck diameter) that you were seeing from your "fully prepped" brass.

In a way.....
I was asking if YOU....
TRUSTED the "fully prepped brass" (or even new brass)? To put it another way....do you believed that the brass was "PROPERLY" done to spec?

Yup, I've experienced that.....even some "new brass" that isn't/wasn't done to what I'd like to see (spec wise). Additionally.....it's normally easy to spot the out of round or dented neck openings. So then, for ME, I run even new brass through my F/L sizing dies before continuing. And, for uniformity, I'll even trim them. But, that's me.

No comment about your "fully prepped brass". I don't buy "fully prepped brass". BUT if you asked ME. NO....I don't/wouldn't trust them either.

BUT, But, but.....Whatever.
It's "UP TO YOU".

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
And later....

I would NOT worry about my dies more than my brass. Steel vs Brass

My post #2, was a "response".

Since you asked about the particular size (neck diameter) that you were seeing from your "fully prepped" brass.

In a way.....
I was asking if YOU....
TRUSTED the "fully prepped brass" (or even new brass)? To put it another way....do you believed that the brass was "PROPERLY" done to spec?

Yup, I've experienced that.....even some "new brass" that isn't/wasn't done to what I'd like to see (spec wise). Additionally.....it's normally easy to spot the out of round or dented neck openings. So then, for ME, I run even new brass through my F/L sizing dies before continuing. And, for uniformity, I'll even trim them. But, that's me.

No comment about your "fully prepped brass". I don't buy "fully prepped brass". BUT if you asked ME. NO....I don't/wouldn't trust them either.

BUT, But, but.....Whatever.
It's "UP TO YOU".

Aloha, Mark
Got it.

I mic'd a sample of the brass and it seems within spec. It's all R-P headstamp. Just a little tighter than my fired brass.

Zipping over my neck sizer puts them at .219" so I think I'll just do that.




P
 
After some Google-fu I have decided to simply run the cases over the expander ball in my FL sizing die. It's easier than doing the same thing with the Lee collet die and returns the same results.

Thanks all for the advice.




P
 
As my Uncle used to say.........

"Now, you're cooking with gas!"

Aloha, Mark

PS.....Be aware that when you're pulling the expander ball back through the neck.....you MIGHT GET some lengthening of the neck. Lube the expander ball (if you don't have carbide) and check the length (to make sure you're still happy).
 
Last Edited:
As my Uncle used to say.........

"Now, you're cooking with gas!"

Aloha, Mark

PS.....Be aware that when you're pulling the expander ball back through the neck.....you MIGHT GET some lengthening of the neck. Lube the expander ball (if you don't have carbide) and check the length (to make sure you're still happy).
I checked the length. Good to go. Everything is .219" and 1.748" length.

And the .219" is probably understated because the brass rim is curved and my calipers are square.



P
 
I've got carbide mandrels to size the inside of the case mouths. That is how I would go about it. Consistent ID.
 
I've got carbide mandrels to size the inside of the case mouths. That is how I would go about it. Consistent ID.
This... I have no qualms with used brass. Most of mine is mine or mixed with range brass. I recently picked up carbide expander mandrels in all my rifle calibers. That's technically the best way to do it. Most benchrest shooters recommend this step as a standard procedure.
If your interested I wouldn't recommend the sinclair/Brownells mandrels. They have a squared off tip then taper. With my co ax I occasionally collide the mouth with the flat tip and destroy a case if chugging along.

The short action customs ones seem a lot better. They are fully profiled and rounded. I wish I would have bought those instead. Infact I may even return mine and upgrade at dome point.

and of course if your doing semi auto it doesn't really matter much at all. Its splitting hairs. Expander mandrel vs expander ball in a standard die tomato /tomoto..

theres some good videos out there by annealing made easy about brass neck hardness and annealing that's kind of eye opening. I say that I'm regards to proper neck tension is usually .002-.003 thou. Generally anything more than that and your actually sizing the neck and working the brass and losing tension. YMMV whatever works, works and stick to that.

yes I realize this thread is kinda dead, more or less posting this in case others have the same issue.
 

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