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I am sizing brass for a 300wm. The shoulder on the fired brass measures 2.275 exact on all the fired brass from this rifle. I am trying to size down to 2.273. My problem is after I run the brass through my die, the shoulder measures 2.278 to 2.280. Doesn't matter how far down I run my die this keeps happening. Does anyone have experience with this issue?
 
I am sizing brass for a 300wm. The shoulder on the fired brass measures 2.275 exact on all the fired brass from this rifle. I am trying to size down to 2.273. My problem is after I run the brass through my die, the shoulder measures 2.278 to 2.280. Doesn't matter how far down I run my die this keeps happening. Does anyone have experience with this issue?
I'm sure someone else will address this better than I can. But I have a question. I presume this is a bolt gun? Will the gun chamber a fired round with little to no resistance when the bolt closes? I shoot Swede Mauser 6.6 X 55 and I only need to neck size.

Edit
Is it possible the expander ball is sticking in the neck on withdrawal and stretching the shoulder?
 
This is a 300wm Remington 700. The brass is all fire formed and annealed. I have not had this issue before but I have wondered if maybe the ball expander was pulling that shoulder out, stretching the brass?
 
It should be easy enough to remove the expander ball and run them thru again and see.
I get what seems like a lot of resistance on the upstroke from the expander ball. In 6.5 Swede and .30-06. I dip the neck in a dry lube. I've measure a bunch and have never had the shoulder stretched up.
 
What dry lube do you use
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It's really kind of a PITA. But then I'm using the RCBS stuff and their lube pad. For now.
 
If you are going to use the same brass in the same gun, when you fired the round the brass became the same size as the chamber. You Don't need to resize the entire brass unless you intend to use it in other guns.

You only need to neck size if you use the same brass in the same gun and neck sizing gives longer life to the brass.


 
Does the sized brass chamber with no difficulty?

If so, shoot it! (From then on out, neck size or partial size if this is dedicated brass to that gun.) With a belted magnum, it is always a good idea to encourage headspacing on the shoulder rather than the belt. Fired brass from that gun will be perfect toward this, so avoid setting that shoulder back in kindness to your brass. An accuracy improvement might well also be noticed.

On a critical hunt, all ammo so treated as such should have been cycled through the magazine and action for flawless function and chambering.
 
If you are going to use the same brass in the same gun, when you fired the round the brass became the same size as the chamber. You Don't need to resize the entire brass unless you intend to use it in other guns.

You only need to neck size if you use the same brass in the same gun and neck sizing gives longer life to the brass.


I have neck sizing die and this brass is specific to this rifle only. I just get a lot of mixed info and opinions on neck sizing vs Full length so I usually just stay away from neck sizing
 
I have neck sizing die and this brass is specific to this rifle only. I just get a lot of mixed info and opinions on neck sizing vs Full length so I usually just stay away from neck sizing
Here's how I've come to see it. If that piece of fired brass will chamber properly in your bolt gun? What else do you need? Just make sure the brass length is within spec.
 
Does the sized brass chamber with no difficulty?

If so, shoot it! (From then on out, neck size or partial size if this is dedicated brass to that gun.) With a belted magnum, it is always a good idea to encourage headspacing on the shoulder rather than the belt. Fired brass from that gun will be perfect toward this, so avoid setting that shoulder back in kindness to your brass. An accuracy improvement might well also be noticed.

On a critical hunt, all ammo so treated as such should have been cycled through the magazine and action for flawless function and chambering.
I've always bumped my shoulders .002 and this rifle has no issues shooting accurate at 1000 yds. This is the first time the shoulder is growing in length instead of bumping back and it doesn't matter how far I thread the die down it will not push the shoulder back
 
Here's how I've come to see it. If that piece of fired brass will chamber properly in your bolt gun? What else do you need? Just make sure the brass length is within spec.
It does chamber fine but my shoulders are coming out inconsistent in length. I want to continue to shoot 1000 yards and am afraid the inconsistency in the shoulders will effect my accuracy
 
Brass is expensive and you are only going to get so many full length resizings because you are working the brass.

Necksizing if you annealed the neck gives you a case with a longer life.

Good luck.
 
Your sizer die is butting against the belt (therefore doing nothing to the already stretched shoulder from firing). If belted magnums are repeatedly full-length resized, this is common as well as noticeably shortened case life. (This is one of the "reasons"...easily remedied.. that belts were eventually determined to be "detrimental" or at the least "useless", and non-belted fat-cased magnums began to appear.) Some even went so far as to blame the calibers/cartridges themselves for the brief case life of belted magnums.

None of the criticisms were valid and still aren't. Just make sure you are headspacing on the shoulder, not the belt, and your cases won't stretch so noticeably. Neck sizing or partial sizing will get you there. You want your brass to chamber reliably with the LEAST amount of resizing done that is possible.
 
Your sizer die is butting against the belt (therefore doing nothing to the already stretched shoulder from firing). If belted magnums are repeatedly full-length resized, this is common as well as noticeably shortened case life. (This is one of the "reasons"...easily remedied.. that belts were eventually determined to be "detrimental" or at the least "useless", and non-belted fat-cased magnums began to appear.) Some even went so far as to blame the calibers/cartridges themselves for the brief case life of belted magnums.

None of the criticisms were valid and still aren't. Just make sure you are headspacing on the shoulder, not the belt, and your cases won't stretch so noticeably. Neck sizing or partial sizing will get you there. You want your brass to chamber reliably with the LEAST amount of resizing done that is possible.
The Brass in question has only been fired 1 to 3 times. They are all at 2.275 on the shoulder once fired. So is my rifle chamber not allowing the brass to expand enough for my sizer die?
 
Full length resizing in a belted magnum each of three times they've been loaded with (I will assume) top-end loads will certainly result in case stretching. Case failure is the next stage, and on a belted magnum most usually will develop with case head separation just above the web.

Incipient case head separation (in other words, "hasn't happened yet, but just around the corner") MIGHT exhibit on the exterior of the case in a thin bright ring. It is BEST detected by dragging a "feeler gauge" (a wire with a small 90 degree bend at the end, sharpened) on the inside wall of the case in that area above the web. If a "snag" is felt, that case is done.

Set your die (on once-fired brass) to just kiss the shoulder. If that brass does not chamber readily, take a small turn on the die. Try again. You should be able to see the travel marks of the die (neck portion) on the exterior of the neck, to know when it approaches the shoulder of the case.

Do this with your brass dedicated to one gun, and it'll last just as long as any ol' .30-06.

Edited to add: If you are expecting top level accuracy, mixing "ages" of brass (times fired) or brands of brass is counterproductive. Each lot of brass should be kept separate, loaded separately as a lot to itself, with documentation that will verify later.
 

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