Izhevsk M38 mosin nagant info needed

[rjmt]

this is my Tula ex sniper

you will note the Tula sniper stamp on the receiver, the shims in the receiver, the floated barrel and the front sight is centered over the bore with a short front post

my son can shoot MOA all day long with this rifle, with 200 gn Russian match ammo

 

[ma96782]

Rrrrrright......at 25 yards with regular light ball surplus ammo. No bayonet.

Well.....it's not like I can even focus all that much (frt sight, rear sight gap and a 100 yard target). Yeah....it sucks to get old.

Aloha, Mark

 

[rjmt]

View attachment 1005033

Rrrrrright......at 25 yards with regular light ball surplus ammo. No bayonet.

Well.....it's not like I can even focus all that much (frt sight, rear sight gap and a 100 yard target). Yeah....it sucks to get old.

Aloha, Mark

your target says with Timney trigger, sights set for 500 yrds
I know from experience a Timney doesn't drop easily into a Mosin wooden stock, I've done it
what chassis is your Mosin mounted in?
just interested
I've fired every Mosin ammo I could find and Brown Bear 174 shoots the best in most of my Mosins at 100 yrds
many on the Mosin forum state regular light ball starts to open up past 100 yrds
i'm waiting to get up to the 300 yrd range in Cowlitz to test my Mosins out that far
but I don't have factory sights on my Mosin shooters

have you compared with and without the bayonet? I have and POI changes dramatically, maybe not as close as 25 yrds, but defiantly at 100
one can adjust windage with a tool
I'll try my '42 91/30 at 25 yrds with armory set iron sights and get back to you with target photos

now the Finn Mosins are another story with their heavy barrels

 

[rjmt]

View attachment 1005033


. Yeah....it sucks to get old.

Aloha, Mark

when I say my Mosins are capable of such accuracy, that's with my 28 year old son shooting
at 71, the only Mosin I shoot at 100 yrds or more is my 2 scoped Mosins
I even found an out of production Vortex Viper 4x12 scope that fits in the cradle of my PEM mount
this one is a '36 Tula with a PEM reproduction mount and 1" insert scope shims
again, fully shimmed receiver, floated and corked barrel, Smith Sights 2 stage trigger

 

[ma96782]

The Timmy trigger was on a 1927 Izhevsk MN 91/30 mounted in an Archangel stock (see above picture). The barrel has been counterbored on that rifle. It's not my favorite. I only bought it because I wanted the stock. But, since I got the trigger too...oh well, thank you to the seller.

Currently, I've taken it out of the Archangel stock and have put it back into a wooden M91/30 stock (thank you seller, that you kept it). But, it's too bad that the seller didn't have the original magazine/trigger group. I had to find a "new/old" one (of course, now it's non-numbers matching). And I did get the bayonet, ammo pouch and a cleaning kit from the seller.

But what do I care? Yeah......it's a shooter. Along with my other Mosins.

Then......
It did come with a muzzle brake. One of those bayonet-style attaching deals (with two set screws). It was throwing my shots all over the target (at 25, 50 and 100 yards). I couldn't/wouldn't even call the results a "group". LOL. I was determined to get rid of it. So then.....I loosened the set screws. But I was still unable to actually remove it. Until one day while shooting it.......viola. It flew off on it's own. Thank You Lord for that.

The group in the picture (Post #82) was AFTER that event.

I've also tried shooting many of my MN 91/30 rifles with a bayonet attached. Each time I was greatly disappointed.

I've also found my M44s to be a PIA due to the muzzle forward heavy feel. With the extended bayonet.....it's even worse.

My M38 is better. Because it's lighter. Although, it also has a counterbore and accuracy isn't as good vs when shooting my M91/30s.



Yeah....that means......that I ENJOY my full-sized M91/30s - BEST OF ALL (w/o the bayonet, of course).

As for ammo.......
I have a whole bunch of Russian and Bulgarian light ball military (corrosive) surplus. I don't really care about ammo dates. As for the mfn.....whatever. It ain't suppose to be Match Grade. And, as I've already talked about my eyesight. So yeah......anyway.....I figure, no one cares what my groups look like. I've even shot up some 1947 Russian ammo mounted on strippers. No big deal there either. Yeah.....I just keep the can (lot #) together. Until I run out of that stuff. Then, I'll move on to the next can.

Of course the photos of my targets were on a "select" basis.

Aloha, Mark

 

[ma96782]

1947 ammo crate opening time.....













Aloha, Mark

 

[rjmt]

View attachment 1005231

The Timmy trigger was on a 1927 Izhevsk MN 91/30 mounted in an Archangel stock (see above picture). The barrel has been counterbored on that rifle. It's not my favorite. I only bought it because I wanted the stock. But, since I got the trigger too...oh well, thank you to the seller.

Currently, I've taken it out of the Archangel stock and have put it back into a wooden M91/30 stock (thank you seller, that you kept it). But, it's too bad that the seller didn't have the original magazine/trigger group. I had to find a "new" one (of course, now it's non-numbers matching).

But what do I care? Yeah......it's a shooter. Along with my other Mosins.

Oh....and I did get the bayonet with the purchase too. Though I can't remember about the cleaning kit.

And it did come with a muzzle brake. One of those bayonet-style attaching deals (with two set screws). It was throwing my shots all over the target (at 25, 50 and 100 yards). I couldn't/wouldn't even call the results a "group". LOL. I was determined to get rid of it. So then.....I loosened the set screws. But I was still unable to actually remove it. Until one day while shooting it.......viola. It flew off on it's own. Thank You Lord for that.

The group in the picture (Post #82) was AFTER that event.

I've tried shooting many of my other MN 91/30 rifles with a bayonet. Each time I was greatly disappointed. And, I've also found my M44s to be a PIA due to their muzzle forward heavy feel.

My M38 is better. Because it's lighter. Although, it also has a counterbore and accuracy isn't as good as my M91/30s.

View attachment 1005250

Yeah....that means......that I ENJOY my full-sized M91/30s - BEST OF ALL (w/o the bayonet, of course).

As for ammo.......
I have a whole bunch of Russian and Bulgarian light ball military (corrosive) surplus. I don't really care about ammo dates. As for the mfn.....whatever. It ain't suppose to be Match Grade. And, as I've already talked about my eyesight. So yeah......anyway.....I figure, no one cares what my groups look like. I've even shot up some 1947 Russian ammo mounted on strippers. No big deal there either. Yeah.....I just keep the can (lot #) together. Until I run out of that stuff. Then, I'll move on to the next can.

Of course the photos of my targets were on a "select" basis.

Aloha, Mark

thanks, Mark
your 1927 is probably an ex-dragoon, since the 91/30 was introduced in - 1930 - but you know that
I have a '24 and '30 ex-dragoon - mine are fine shooters

I have a crate of 1973 Russian Light Ball still in the spam cans - I don't like shooting corrosive ammo in my Mosins
but have bottles of Ballistol just for cleaning after shooting such
back when 7.62x54r ammo was cheep, I bot LOTS of Brown Bear 174, non-corrosive, it's all I shoot now
I did score on 6 boxes of LVE match 200 gn ammo, but save that for my Finn M39 and M28 and my Tula sniper select

I only have one Mosin with a Bayonet mounted, my Tula '42 that was not refurbished, from the photo, you can see there is not any additional marks on the barrel from repair or refurb
you will note the front sight has a tall post, offset to the right of the bore, as it came from the armory, sighted in with the bayonet mounted
and it's in a war time stock still, not a post war replacement
this is a Russian import, not Ukrainian, with a new model and serial number on the receiver

if any of your Mosins have sticky bolt, I have a chamber hone that cleans up chambers pitted by corrosive ammo

 

[rjmt]

1947 ammo crate opening time.....
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Aloha, Mark

wow, clean fingernails
I garden without gloves and have not had clean fingernails for 20 years
and I have an extra long thumbnail for cutting zucchini and cucumber stems
I used to use my thumbnail to set points gaps on my '73 Ford truck

 

[ma96782]

IMHO.....don't worry about shooting corrosive ammo out of your rifle.

My routine after shooting corrosive ammo through my AKs and Mosin Nagant is to take them home and within that first few hours:

1. Strip the firearm down including the bolt. Small parts are soaked in a hot soapy water solution.
2. Using hot soapy water I'll also clean and brush the larger metal parts. Including down the bore.
3. Look over the wood, as cosmoline might still be oozing out from the wood. I clean it off. I use a patch with a bit of Hoppe's No 9.
4. If I feel like it, I'll also do the Hoppe's No. 9 w/ bronze bore brush through the bore to work on the copper build-up.
5. The parts are looked over/checked for defects and dried off. The drying process is helped along by the hot parts sort of flash drying and/or with a wipe down with a dry rag or blowing with compressed air.
6. The dried parts are lightly oiled (and/or grease applied where necessary/needed), then reassembled correctly.
7. I'll also check back in a day or two. To see if there is rust developing and sometimes I'll run another oily patch through the bore just for good measure.

LOL...many youngsters are probably wondering about this "corrosive ammo" stuff and wondering, "Why shoot corrosive ammo at all?"

Well, I can still remember when surplus ammo was plentiful and cheap. But, it was corrosive. Yup, I bought a lot of it and stacked it deep. It still serves my purpose, at a very cheap price compared to the new stuff. Though with a necessary cleaning routine.

And, cleaning with expensive formulas is not how I roll. Hot soapy water is just that. Hot water with a little squirt of dish soap added. I say hot water because it helps in the drying off the parts. Cold water has a way of just sitting there. So, if you're using cold water, you'll have to make sure to wipe the parts down (drying it off) really well.

Aloha, Mark

 

[rjmt]

IMHO.....don't worry about shooting corrosive ammo out of your rifle.

My routine after shooting corrosive ammo through my AKs and Mosin Nagant is to take them home and within that first few hours:

1. Strip the firearm down including the bolt. Small parts are soaked in a hot soapy water solution.
2. Using hot soapy water I'll also clean and brush the larger metal parts. Including down the bore.
3. Look over the wood, as cosmoline might still be oozing out from the wood. I clean it off. I use a patch with a bit of Hoppe's No 9.
4. If I feel like it, I'll also do the Hoppe's No. 9 w/ bronze bore brush through the bore to work on the copper build-up.
5. The parts are looked over/checked for defects and dried off. The drying process is helped along by the hot parts sort of flash drying and/or with a wipe down with a dry rag or blowing with compressed air.
6. The dried parts are lightly oiled (and/or grease applied where necessary/needed), then reassembled correctly.
7. I'll also check back in a day or two. To see if there is rust developing and sometimes I'll run another oily patch through the bore just for good measure.

LOL...many youngsters are probably wondering about this "corrosive ammo" stuff and wondering, "Why shoot corrosive ammo at all?"

Well, I can still remember when surplus ammo was plentiful and cheap. But, it was corrosive. Yup, I bought a lot of it and stacked it deep. It still serves my purpose, at a very cheap price compared to the new stuff. Though with a necessary cleaning routine.

And, cleaning with expensive formulas is not how I roll. Hot soapy water is just that. Hot water with a little squirt of dish soap added. I say hot water because it helps in the drying off the parts. Cold water has a way of just sitting there. So, if you're using cold water, you'll have to make sure to wipe the parts down (drying it off) really well.

Aloha, Mark

I've not found Ballistol in the NW, have to order it on line, must be a Midwest thing
developed by the Germans just for corrosive ammo, mix it with water in a spray bottle (called Moose Milk by old-timers), spray it in your chamber after a shoot and pull a bore snake through
job - jobbed
I purchase 16 oz cans of concentrate and mix it 10:1 with water
cost $17 and last for several years

I have hundreds of Korean 30-06 rounds for my Garand - the same

but my AK ammo is new production non corrosive- still came in a wooden case in spam cans

as for cosmoline on my stocks, back when I acquired all my Mosins, I striped them to the stocks and left the stocks out in our summer sun to heat up
that summer, we registered 110 on our gravel driveway
then every night, brought them in and wiped them down with mineral spirits
did this for a week with each stock
my Mosin stocks are clear of any cosmoline by now

 

[Aero Denezol]

I've not found Ballistol in the NW, have to order it on line, must be a Midwest thing
developed by the Germans just for corrosive ammo, mix it with water in a spray bottle (called Moose Milk by old-timers), spray it in your chamber after a shoot and pull a bore snake through
job - jobbed
I purchase 16 oz cans of concentrate and mix it 10:1 with water
cost $17 and last for several years

+1. Any of my older bolt rifles that shoot corrosive ammo, I run a couple of patches of Ballistol through the bore before putting away. Never had a problem with rust.

I still do the hot water through the bore first, using a funnel and a bucket. Then I run some patches through to dry it out, before doing "regular" cleaning. They're not making anymore WWII rifles and it is piece of mind for me.

 

[rjmt]

two things are most responsible for wearing out Mosin barrels, steel cleaning rods and corrosive ammo

when I had my Garand rebarreled, the gunsmith told it had not been shot out but ruined by excessive cleaning from the muzzle with a GI steel cleaning rod

I never clean a Mosin or Mauser or even AR from the muzzle, always through the breach with a one piece coated rod of proper diameter

and I don't over scrub them, most Mil Surp rifles shoot better with a bit of copper in the rifling - unless your lapping your old barrels

when shooting competition in the old days, every time I used solvent to get all the copper out, my groupings opened up

had to "foul" the barrel with 20 rnds of cheep ammo to get my groups back

I guess I lucked out with my Mosins, everyone has a good to excellent barrel, non are counterbored

 

[rjmt]

View attachment 1005231

The Timmy trigger was on a 1927 Izhevsk MN 91/30 mounted in an Archangel stock (see above picture). The barrel has been counterbored on that rifle. It's not my favorite. I only bought it because I wanted the stock. But, since I got the trigger too...oh well, thank you to the seller.

Currently, I've taken it out of the Archangel stock and have put it back into a wooden M91/30 stock (thank you seller, that you kept it). But, it's too bad that the seller didn't have the original magazine/trigger group. I had to find a "new/old" one (of course, now it's non-numbers matching). And I did get the bayonet, ammo pouch and a cleaning kit from the seller.

But what do I care? Yeah......it's a shooter. Along with my other Mosins.

Then......
It did come with a muzzle brake. One of those bayonet-style attaching deals (with two set screws). It was throwing my shots all over the target (at 25, 50 and 100 yards). I couldn't/wouldn't even call the results a "group". LOL. I was determined to get rid of it. So then.....I loosened the set screws. But I was still unable to actually remove it. Until one day while shooting it.......viola. It flew off on it's own. Thank You Lord for that.

The group in the picture (Post #82) was AFTER that event.

I've also tried shooting many of my MN 91/30 rifles with a bayonet attached. Each time I was greatly disappointed.

I've also found my M44s to be a PIA due to the muzzle forward heavy feel. With the extended bayonet.....it's even worse.

My M38 is better. Because it's lighter. Although, it also has a counterbore and accuracy isn't as good vs when shooting my M91/30s.

View attachment 1005250

Yeah....that means......that I ENJOY my full-sized M91/30s - BEST OF ALL (w/o the bayonet, of course).

As for ammo.......
I have a whole bunch of Russian and Bulgarian light ball military (corrosive) surplus. I don't really care about ammo dates. As for the mfn.....whatever. It ain't suppose to be Match Grade. And, as I've already talked about my eyesight. So yeah......anyway.....I figure, no one cares what my groups look like. I've even shot up some 1947 Russian ammo mounted on strippers. No big deal there either. Yeah.....I just keep the can (lot #) together. Until I run out of that stuff. Then, I'll move on to the next can.

Of course the photos of my targets were on a "select" basis.

Aloha, Mark

Mark, I forgot to mention, if you have a '27 Mosin, it probably didn't have a 91/30 front sight, since the Dragoons were not issued with bayonets
My 1924 ex-dragoon does not have a 91/30 front sight, but my son's 1930 does
there are no wear marks on the barrel from a bayonet ever being mounted on the '24
I found this old photo of Mongolian Calvary carrying Mosin Dragoons, not a bayonet to be seen

 

[ma96782]

OMG......it's actually a TULA.



Anyway......
On that particular rifle (originally w/ the Archangel stock and Timney).....I have no idea about how well (or not) the Russians did the conversion to 91/30 specs. I never even thought about the frt sight. But....the rear sight block does have that gap (filled in with grease).

That being said......
The bayonet that I got with it.....fits. I don't recall having to "make it fit". It's the standard style of the spike bayonet. It's the same as you see with any other 91/30s (nothing special). And the bayonet ser. numbers have been electro penciled on and do NOT match.

OK, Ok, ok......more pictures.




Aloha, Mark

 

[rjmt]

OMG......it's actually a TULA.

View attachment 1006432

Anyway......
On that particular rifle (originally w/ the Archangel stock and Timney).....I have no idea about how well (or not) the Russians did the conversion to 91/30 specs. I never even thought about the frt sight. But....the rear sight block does have that gap (filled in with grease).

That being said......
The bayonet that I got with it.....fits. I don't recall having to "make it fit". It's the standard style of the spike bayonet. It's the same as you see with any other 91/30s (nothing special). And the bayonet ser. numbers have been electro penciled on and do NOT match.

OK, Ok, ok......more pictures.

View attachment 1006433
View attachment 1006434

Aloha, Mark

yup, ex-Dragoon for sure

you have braggin rights that you own one of the last of the true Dragoon rifles ever produced

based on your feedback on the accuracy your getting without the bayonet, my point is someone at sometime sighted your specific Mosin to shoot without the bayonet

from an internet Mosin reference site:

Mosin-Nagant Iron Sights

The factory sights on a M91/30 are rugged, but imprecise and difficult to adjust. Unless they have been modified, most M91/30s will shoot about four to six inches high at 100 yards, and often several inches to the left or right of the point-of-aim. Strangely, this is not an accident. M91/30s shoot high because the lowest elevation setting of 100m is actually a "peasant-proof" setting designed to allow the rifle to hit an enemy soldier out to several hundred meters without adjustment, provided that the always shooter aimed at the enemy's belt buckle (as they had been trained). Additionally, most M91/30s will shoot a bit to the left or right because Soviet military doctrine called for the bayonet to be attached for the entire duration of combat, so the factory zeroed the sights with the bayonet attached. When the rifle is fired without the bayonet, the barrel's harmonics are altered and the factory zero is no longer trued to the point-of-impact.

To achieve consistent, accurate shot placement, the non-adjustable factory sights of your M91/30 must be re-zeroed, a delicate operation best performed by a gunsmith. Alternatively, the sights can be replaced with a set of adjustable iron sights, or the rifle can be modified to mount telescopic sights (scopes) or electronic sights. Improvements to the rifle's iron sights are detailed below, while the mounting of telescopic and electronic sights is covered here.

---

Improving the Factory Sights

The cheapest option to improve the iron sights on your M91/30 is to re-zero the sights by drifting the front sight base and lengthening or shortening the front sight post, as needed (nylon tube stock can be fitted over the post to lengthen it). Other common improvements include filing down the front sight post, cutting off the top of the front sight globe (or removing the globe entirely), and painting the tip of the sight post a bright color. A finer sight post will allow more precise shot placement, however, filing the post unevenly can result in unpredictable shifts in point-of-impact, so the sights should be zeroed after the front sight has been filed down. Removing the top of the sight globe will open up the sight picture while still protecting the front post from damage, and a brightly colored front sight can make it easier to find the front sight in dim lighting conditions or against dark targets. Should you mess something up irreversibly, a new front sight assembly is about $12, or you can have a gunsmith improve the sights professionally for somewhere between $20-$75.

Once re-zeroed, unmodified M91/30s iron sights are capable of surprising accuracy. If you are looking for an enjoyable "just for shooting" rifle, then it is advisable to re-zero the sights and simply leave the modifications at that.

---

 

[ma96782]

Remember. I placed my target at 25 yards.

The rifle's front sight is just the regular one as found on the standard M91/30. Of course, I had to adjust (left or right) to get it onto the target the way that I like it. A small hammer and a punch took care of that.

Note that I've also written sight set at 500 yards.

That is how I take care of height adjustments. Just using the standard rear sight and sliding it up or down until I get the results that I want. I suppose.....if I was gonna shoot at 100 yards....maybe I'd think about adjusting (filing or extending) my front sight.

AND......I use a 6 o'clock hold. NOT a center hold. My eyes are not good enough to see a difference between the target and the top edge of my frt sight (even at that close range). So, the 6 o'clock hold offers a better sight picture, for me.

Then.....I was using an MR-31c target printed on standard typing paper. The black on the target is about 5.5" across. The 10 ring is about 1.75" across.

Anyway.....
I use this free web sight for printable rifle (and pistol) targets. SR-1, SR-21 and MR-31c

https://www.6mmbr.com/targets.html

The targets were originally intended to mimic the sight picture and scoring rings of an NRA Hi-power Rifle Match target. This target is supposed to be placed out at 100 yards (for practice). Yeah.......it's not like you can easily find a 600 yard range to practice your shooting.

BUT....for ME......because I have bad eyesight. The target is placed out at 25 yards.

Some people like to do the math like (as if/in my dreams perhaps).......

1" (at 25 yards) = 4" (at 100 yards)

So then.......

If I shot a 2" group at 25 yards. It would be 8" at 100 yards.

LOL......OMG. He is a lousy shot. Rrrright. And as I said.....old age sucks. Yup....I've thought about new special shooting glasses. But, I've never pursued it all that much.

Then.....I can only wish that I could shoot 2" groups (or less) all day long at 25 yards. LOL.

Aloha, Mark

PS.....and note that the point of impact can/will change one lot of ammo vs another.

 

[ma96782]

Since it was mentioned on Page 1.
As for the "unsafe" .30-06 Bannerman conversions of the MN.

I remember seeing one at a gun show once. IIRC it was a Remington. It caught my eye because the barrel had been shortened from the breech/chamber end.

Aloha, Mark

PS.....more info on the Remington MN.

The Remington Mosin-Nagant: An All-American Pre-Soviet Rifle

The American made Mosin Nagant rifles are a unique piece of firearms history. The Remington and Westinghouse rifles were made to help save the Tsar

www.ammoland.com

 

[rjmt]

Remember. I placed my target at 25 yards.

The rifle's front sight is just the regular one as found on the standard M91/30. Of course, I had to adjust (left or right) to get it onto the target the way that I like it. A small hammer and a punch took care of that.

Note that I've also written sight set at 500 yards.

That is how I take care of height adjustments. Just using the standard rear sight and sliding it up or down until I get the results that I want. I suppose.....if I was gonna shoot at 100 yards....maybe I'd think about adjusting (filing or extending) my front sight.

AND......I use a 6 o'clock hold. NOT a center hold. My eyes are not good enough to see a difference between the target and the top edge of my frt sight (even at that close range). So, the 6 o'clock hold offers a better sight picture, for me.

Then.....I was using an MR-31c target printed on standard typing paper. The black on the target is about 5.5" across. The 10 ring is about 1.75" across.

Anyway.....
I use this free web sight for printable rifle (and pistol) targets. SR-1, SR-21 and MR-31c

https://www.6mmbr.com/targets.html

The targets were originally intended to mimic the sight picture and scoring rings of an NRA Hi-power Rifle Match target. This target is supposed to be placed out at 100 yards (for practice). Yeah.......it's not like you can easily find a 600 yard range to practice your shooting.

BUT....for ME......because I have bad eyesight. The target is placed out at 25 yards.

Some people like to do the math like (as if/in my dreams perhaps).......

1" (at 25 yards) = 4" (at 100 yards)

So then.......

If I shot a 2" group at 25 yards. It would be 8" at 100 yards.

LOL......OMG. He is a lousy shot. Rrrright. And as I said.....old age sucks. Yup....I've thought about new special shooting glasses. But, I've never pursued it all that much.

Then.....I can only wish that I could shoot 2" groups (or less) all day long at 25 yards. LOL.

Aloha, Mark

PS.....and note that the point of impact can/will change one lot of ammo vs another.

no disagreement here, Mark, I only hope other Mosin owners have benefited from our exchange

now a note on shooting the M38, since that was the original focus of this thread
with it's 20" bbl, shooting Russian surplus or Brown Bear ammo, the M30 puts out a muzzle blast like a .375 H&H, throws a fireball 3' out of the barrel
I was shooting out in the front yard at our 100 yrd target with the M38 and took a break to open another package of ammo
during this quiet time, my wife returned on the other side of the house from shopping
she got out of the car with a holder full of 3 hot Starbucks for us that she just got in town
UNFORTUNATLY, she was just standing up with the coffee when I fired off the
all is quiet out here, one can only hear the birds and the wind in the Fir trees
then I touch off a round out of the M38, coffee went up in the air and came down on her - hot Mocca all over her
now I wear double ear protection when I shoot the M38, so I didn't hear her cussing and storming around the end of the house
then I see a mad redhead, covered in Mocca, stomping towards me

needless to say, the evening did not go well at my place

 

[rjmt]

Since it was mentioned on Page 1.
As for the "unsafe" .30-06 Bannerman conversions of the MN.

I remember seeing one at a gun show once. IIRC it was a Remington. The barrel had been shortened from the breech/chamber end.

Aloha, Mark

PS.....more info on the Remington MN.

The Remington Mosin-Nagant: An All-American Pre-Soviet Rifle

The American made Mosin Nagant rifles are a unique piece of firearms history. The Remington and Westinghouse rifles were made to help save the Tsar

www.ammoland.com

did you know that Roosevelt owned a Remington MN?
he encouraged the contract from Russia for the Mosin production and Remington gave him a presentation model
after the Communist revolution, and Remington was stuck with all these Mosins, the NRA was selling them to members
I wish I had a Remington in my collection, but the last one I saw was selling for $800, 7 years ago

 

[ma96782]

No disagreement from me. I too hope that anyone can/could maybe benefit from the info we put out there.

Speaking about the fireballs and loud M38.

I remember one day when I was shooting. I thought that there was no one around. Well, after letting off a couple of rounds through the M38 the range officer came by to double-check. Rrrrright. Was I doing something unsafe? Well, those loud "explosions" and "fireballs" were getting his attention.

I usually get that look too.

Aloha, Mark