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Measure the OD of the neck of the sized case. Then measure the OD of the neck after the bullet has been seated. The difference is your neck tension. .0025" - .003" is usually plenty to hold a bullet firmly in place.
I dont have anything unseated that ive rant thru -my- die, but measuring a new factory sized case .325 and one of my loaded cases .3275" Im probably good. It will be interesting to see what my die is getting. I think based on this thread I will test no crimps or a very very super light crimp because I dont like the idea of a heavy crimp for my own consistency reasons as I havent figured out a way to repeat the exact amount each loading session. (hence this post).
 
I don't understand, why the question? Everything I've read about loading, .30-30 specifically, for a lever, tube fed rifle, says roll crimp. It was really easy. Not that expensive, and smooth as, well, stuff through a goose.
You would likely have enough neck tension with a taper crimp, but that's not recommended unless you were shooting in a bolt gun. And unless your trim lengths are real close crimp won't be uniform.

Less that $20.00 with Prime. And at your door in a couple of days.
The question is about how much crimp. I thought about getting a separate crimp die but why when my Redding sizing die also does both roll and taper crimping (although I dont "see" how it can do both but...). I chose taper crimp because you cant use roll crimp with bullets that dont have (or align with) a cannelure like the Lever Hammers Im using but taper crimps work on all bullets.
 
The question is about how much crimp. I thought about getting a separate crimp die but why when my Redding sizing die also does both roll and taper crimping (although I dont "see" how it can do both but...). I chose taper crimp because you cant use roll crimp with bullets that dont have (or align with) a cannelure like the Lever Hammers Im using but taper crimps work on all bullets.
The factory crimp die applies the same amount of pressure regardless of the length of the brass. (within reason)
The combo taper/roll crimp comes from the die tapering down to the point of taper crimp and then there is a protruding ring that, when more down pressure on the ram is applied, will roll crimp. Not really ideal for uniformity if brass trim length varies much more than .002". And brass my buckle if too much pressure is applied on the longer pieces.
You can use the factory crimp die on jacketed rounds without a cannelure without worry of buckling brass. I see you're using solid copper now. I'd still use the crimp die. Copper is softer than brass. It wouldn't take much to crimp the case into the bullet. And it would be the same exact crimp on every round. No matter brass length differences.

I go through the process of keeping trim length close to exact on .38 sp and .357 mag, and use the roll crimp function within the old Hornady dies I have. It's a PIA. I don't do a lot of those calibers, but I'm still thinking I'll get that Lee die here before too long.
 
I dont have anything unseated that ive rant thru -my- die, but measuring a new factory sized case .325 and one of my loaded cases .3275" Im probably good. It will be interesting to see what my die is getting. I think based on this thread I will test no crimps or a very very super light crimp because I dont like the idea of a heavy crimp for my own consistency reasons as I havent figured out a way to repeat the exact amount each loading session. (hence this post).
To get repeatable crimps you can marking your die and reloading press like I mentioned before with headspacing. Find the right amount of crimp, lock down the die with a lock ring and mark a line on the die and press. Return to that crimp by realigning those lines after seating etc.
 
really easy to overthink this or over complicate the matter. rule of thumb on 30 30 is crimp for tube magazine, no crimp for bolt gun. if your not trying for max speed or super accurate loads. i have loaded 100s. of loads for 30 30, bolt gun, lever action and single shot. experiment a little and do what works best for your gun or guns. it is a good idea to buy a crimp die. for max case life minimum crimp is better. trim your cases and set the die where you want it.....DONE
 
Notes: Im crimping in a separate operation for now using my 30-30 Redding seating die and following their instructions for a taper crimp.

Its pretty straight forward except, how little can you go to assure a good crimp in a lever gun tubular magazine?


Heres a pic, one on the left is crimped pretty good, one on the right is not crimped at all. Both have the same seating de roll crimp vs. taper crimp

Notes: Im crimping in a separate operation for now using my 30-30 Redding seating die and following their instructions for a taper crimp.

Its pretty straight forward except, how little can you go to assure a good crimp in a lever gun tubular magazine?


Heres a pic, one on the left is crimped pretty good, one on the right is not crimped at all. Both have the same seating depth.
View attachment 1248768
do an internet search, roll crimp vs taper crimp.
 

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