Hornady One Shot case lube......

[HighlandLofts]

I use to use Hornady OneShot then I switched over to home made spray lube.
I think the home made lube works better then OneShot lube and is a lilot cheaper to make.
I bought liquid lanolin on Amazon and the red bottle of dry gas from Walmart.
Mix it ten to one and you are good to go.
I put the brass in the plastic tray from McDonald's big breakfast comes in. Give it a couple of squirts, roll the brass around and give it a few more shot of lube. I wait about five minutes for the achohol to evaporate before I start to resize the brass.

 

[PiratePast40]

Put the cases in a gallon baggie. Spray and shake. Keeps all the overspray inside, on the cases and slows down the evaporation of the lube if you leave them overnight/for a couple days.

Yep - 100 or so .223/5.56 cases in the bag, a couple of two second squirts and then gently shake/roll the bag to get lube on all of them. I also throw them back into the rotary tumbler to get the lube off after resizing but only about 15 or 20 minutes this time.

Not related to lube, but I've started checking all cases with a case gage. That also gives me a second check to verify the sizing die is down far enough and also shows which cases go into the trim or no trim box.

 

[po18guy]

OneShot is designed as a dry lube. It has a proprietary substance known as "Dynaglide" in it. Dynaglide was sold under that name before Hornady bought the technology. It leaves a "dry" semi-waxy coating on the brass. Problems may occur if an insufficient amount is sprayed. Depending on the cases and dies, it takes a bit of practice to get it just right. It's all I use now, as all other methods (other than carbide sizers) are just as messy as they always were.

Another use is on magazines. After thoroughly cleaning them, I spritz the inside of the mag body with OneShot. Once dry, I have found that mags load and function better, with no chance of fouling primers.

 

[Spitpatch]

As I understand it, One Shot is a "carrier" aerosol fluid that is transporting a powder lubricant. Therefore VERY important to shake well before use.

Since I am a handloader, not a reloader, my method is slow and attentive: I lay 10 cases on a clean cotton rag (a thick sock works good) with case mouths all pointing the same way and accessible.

A light pass of One Shot over the row of prone soldiers, then roll the batch with your palm simultaneously to their other side and strafe 'em again.
Then, a nylon brush of appropriate diameter (and also lightly sprayed with One Shot) goes in each neck for one pass. Then to the press, in batches of 10.

Less lube is always better. You don't want any between your brass and chamber wall.

For heavy re-forming or sizing tasks, the old gooey RCBS pad and tube have NOT been relinquished (or the extra cleaning necessary).

 

[Ben B.]

There is a difference between One Shot CASE LUBE and One Shot GUN CLEANER & DRY LUBE

 

[ma96782]

RE: Store bought high cost case lube.
Forgetaboutit.

Lately, I've been making my own.

12 oz Heet
2 oz liquid castor oil

Add the ingredients in a reusable plastic spray bottle. Label the contents on the bottle. Mix/agitate the contents well before each usage.

Giving credit where credit is due.

Aloha, Mark

 

[Xmark1]

If you use one shot, have a stuck case removal kit handy and be prepared to use it a lot! Especially 5.56.
I use small base sizer dies a lot and this adds additional friction on the case. A higher viscosity lube works much better, like a pad. So, what if I have to re-tumble after sizing.
Also, one shot causes a lot of dimpled necks!
For me - In the long run using a RCBS pad and lube works best. Once I apply a small amount of lube to the pad, I spread it around evenly with a one-sided razor blade. The trick is to not over lube or under lube, practice.

 

[Spitpatch]

If you use one shot, have a stuck case removal kit handy and be prepared to use it a lot! Especially 5.56.
I use small base sizer dies a lot and this adds additional friction on the case. A higher viscosity lube works much better, like a pad. So, what if I have to re-tumble after sizing.
Also, one shot causes a lot of dimpled necks!
For me - In the long run using a RCBS pad and lube works best. Once I apply a small amount of lube to the pad, I spread it around evenly with a one-sided razor blade. The trick is to not over lube or under lube, practice.

NEVER have had any of these hiccups with One Shot. Not once. Admittedly, I have neither seen or experienced a need for small base dies in my AR or any other gun. I learned a long time ago to avoid any working of the brass that is not necessary for reliable function, and my AR is flawlessly reliable with my handloads.

"A lot" of usage of a stuck case remover (in fact, ONE usage) is a strong indicator toward the human factor as root of the problem. "A lot" of dimpled necks (shoulders, actually?) is an indicator of equal value.

Using a tumbler in an attempt to remove tube-type lubricant (I DO use tube lube for forming, etc.) is curious. Where is that excess lube going??? Right into your media. You want nothing in that media other than cleaning agent. All subsequent batches tossed into that media (lubed or not) will have a measure of lube introduced to them, with that measure increasing with further contamination of the media. Brass cleaning agents are not formulated to break down/dissolve lubricant. They are corrosion/oxidation targeted.

Removal of excess lube completely and thoroughly is accomplished the old-fashioned way. You earn it. No gadget for this one guys, unless you run the brass through the dishwasher (NO dishwashing soap!).

"The trick is to not over lube or under lube, practice." Good advice, even applicable to One Shot.

 

[ron]

I use to use Hornady OneShot then I switched over to home made spray lube.
I think the home made lube works better then OneShot lube and is a lilot cheaper to make.
I bought liquid lanolin on Amazon and the red bottle of dry gas from Walmart.
Mix it ten to one and you are good to go.
I put the brass in the plastic tray from McDonald's big breakfast comes in. Give it a couple of squirts, roll the brass around and give it a few more shot of lube. I wait about five minutes for the achohol to evaporate before I start to resize the brass.

I agree. Only thing I want to add is the homemade lube is a copy of the Dillon lube. Also
the homemade lube is much easier to clean off the cases. To clean the cases after
loading or sizing only, I spray the cases with water and roll them in a bath towel.

 

[Spitpatch]

Yep - 100 or so .223/5.56 cases in the bag, a couple of two second squirts and then gently shake/roll the bag to get lube on all of them. I also throw them back into the rotary tumbler to get the lube off after resizing but only about 15 or 20 minutes this time.

Not related to lube, but I've started checking all cases with a case gage. That also gives me a second check to verify the sizing die is down far enough and also shows which cases go into the trim or no trim box.

"...and also shows which cases go into the trim or no trim box."

This caught my eye. Perhaps it is envisioned as a labor-saving technique toward high production reloading (rather than handloading) with a lesser emphasis on absolute consistency toward brass length.

In my experience and for consistency (ESPECIALLY with semi-auto guns, where brass dimensions can create a malfunction), the need for case trimming is NOT determined on a "case-by-case" basis. No pun intended.

Instead, if after sizing, one or more pieces of brass in that lot (of matched brand, times fired and trimmed) shows excess length, ALL pieces in that lot are trimmed back to the "trim-to" length.

Trimming only those pieces of brass that individually exceed spec length is a recipe for inconsistency.

 

[PiratePast40]

"...and also shows which cases go into the trim or no trim box."

This caught my eye. Perhaps it is envisioned as a labor-saving technique toward high production reloading (rather than handloading) with a lesser emphasis on absolute consistency toward brass length.

In my experience and for consistency (ESPECIALLY with semi-auto guns, where brass dimensions can create a malfunction), the need for case trimming is NOT determined on a "case-by-case" basis. No pun intended.

Instead, if after sizing, one or more pieces of brass in that lot (of matched brand, times fired and trimmed) shows excess length, ALL pieces in that lot are trimmed back to the "trim-to" length.

Trimming only those pieces of brass that individually exceed spec length is a recipe for inconsistency.

For me, all cases that stick out the end of the case gauge by more than a few thousandths, get trimmed to the same length. That batch will be as consistent as my trimmer allows. The case gauge isn't measuring max length, at least not the Lyman ones I use. If you're not measuring case length, how do you determine if it needs to be trimmed or not? I could use a calipers on each one, but the case gauge does more than measure length, so I get two measurement checks in one. For my use, it just doesn't make sense to chuck up a couple of hundred cases in the trimmer if they don't need to be trimmed.

I'm not loading match grade ammo, but my reloads are more accurate than most range type factory ammo.

 

[PiratePast40]

.... Using a tumbler in an attempt to remove tube-type lubricant (I DO use tube lube for forming, etc.) is curious. Where is that excess lube going??? Right into your media. You want nothing in that media other than cleaning agent. All subsequent batches tossed into that media (lubed or not) will have a measure of lube introduced to them, with that measure increasing with further contamination of the media. Brass cleaning agents are not formulated to break down/dissolve lubricant. They are corrosion/oxidation targeted.

Removal of excess lube completely and thoroughly is accomplished the old-fashioned way. You earn it. No gadget for this one guys, unless you run the brass through the dishwasher (NO dishwashing soap!).

One of the great things about this forum is learning about different ways to do things. I use a Frankfort Arsenal Rotary Tumbler with water and SS pins for cleaning brass, so buildup in the media is a non-issue. I also use a capful of Armorall Wash n' Wax in the water. It acts as a lubricant and also acts as a tarnish preventer. You still need lubricant for rifle cases but it works well for 9mm as a little bit of lube.

I now realize that precision shooters might have a mild heart attack hearing about my technique, but it works well for my purposes. Different techniques and processes to achieve different objectives. As we've all learned over the years, there are many ways to get something done, but some methods are more painful than others!

 

[Mikej]

RE: Store bought high cost case lube.
Forgetaboutit.

Lately, I've been making my own.

12 oz Heet
2 oz liquid castor oil

Add the ingredients in a reusable plastic spray bottle. Label the contents on the bottle. Mix/agitate the contents well before each usage.

Giving credit where credit is due.

Aloha, Mark

I make a point of having no oil in any part of the process. Castor oil is a vegetable oil.

For me, all cases that stick out the end of the case gauge by more than a few thousandths, get trimmed to the same length. That batch will be as consistent as my trimmer allows. The case gauge isn't measuring max length, at least not the Lyman ones I use. If you're not measuring case length, how do you determine if it needs to be trimmed or not? I could use a calipers on each one, but the case gauge does more than measure length, so I get two measurement checks in one. For my use, it just doesn't make sense to chuck up a couple of hundred cases in the trimmer if they don't need to be trimmed.

I'm not loading match grade ammo, but my reloads are more accurate than most range type factory ammo.

I don't necessarily trim to "Trim To" length. But I do trim for uniformity. Maybe if I was using one of them fancy drilled powered Giraud three-way trimmers?

One of the great things about this forum is learning about different ways to do things. I use a Frankfort Arsenal Rotary Tumbler with water and SS pins for cleaning brass, so buildup in the media is a non-issue. I also use a capful of Armorall Wash n' Wax in the water. It acts as a lubricant and also acts as a tarnish preventer. You still need lubricant for rifle cases but it works well for 9mm as a little bit of lube.

I now realize that precision shooters might have a mild heart attack hearing about my technique, but it works well for my purposes. Different techniques and processes to achieve different objectives. As we've all learned over the years, there are many ways to get something done, but some methods are more painful than others!

 

[Xmark1]

NEVER have had any of these hiccups with One Shot. Not once. Admittedly, I have neither seen or experienced a need for small base dies in my AR or any other gun. I learned a long time ago to avoid any working of the brass that is not necessary for reliable function, and my AR is flawlessly reliable with my handloads.

"A lot" of usage of a stuck case remover (in fact, ONE usage) is a strong indicator toward the human factor as root of the problem. "A lot" of dimpled necks (shoulders, actually?) is an indicator of equal value.

Using a tumbler in an attempt to remove tube-type lubricant (I DO use tube lube for forming, etc.) is curious. Where is that excess lube going??? Right into your media. You want nothing in that media other than cleaning agent. All subsequent batches tossed into that media (lubed or not) will have a measure of lube introduced to them, with that measure increasing with further contamination of the media. Brass cleaning agents are not formulated to break down/dissolve lubricant. They are corrosion/oxidation targeted.

Removal of excess lube completely and thoroughly is accomplished the old-fashioned way. You earn it. No gadget for this one guys, unless you run the brass through the dishwasher (NO dishwashing soap!).

"The trick is to not over lube or under lube, practice." Good advice, even applicable to One Shot.

I use a wet pin tumbler.

 

[Spitpatch]

"But I do trim for uniformity."

THIS. (emphasis mine)

If nothing else, it seems like false economy (for time at least) to ignore a soldier in the ranks of a matched lot of brass who signals he's in need of a spin on the trimmer.

He's speaking for the whole troop.

If they all (as a matched lot of brass) have been treated (fired, sized, etc.) in a matched fashion, case stretching will proceed in a predictable rate. To ALL that brass in THAT lot, nearly equally.

To set up and trim 8-12 out of 100 seems inefficient when the message has been sent loud and clear that they ALL will demand a trim soon (even if load uniformity is not a primary consideration).

 

[Mikej]

"But I do trim for uniformity."

THIS. (emphasis mine)

If nothing else, it seems like false economy (for time at least) to ignore a soldier in the ranks of a matched lot of brass who signals he's in need of a spin on the trimmer.

He's speaking for the whole troop.

If they all (as a matched lot of brass) have been treated (fired, sized, etc.) in a matched fashion, case stretching will proceed in a predictable rate. To ALL that brass in THAT lot, nearly equally.

To set up and trim 8-12 out of 100 seems inefficient when the message has been sent loud and clear that they ALL will demand a trim soon (even if load uniformity is not a primary consideration).

Mainly because of being lazy. I'm using the RCBS trimmer. My brass did not grow exactly the same after firing. I would trim to the length of pieces that grew the least. Not wanting to sit there and grind .010"+ off 100-160 pieces of once fired by me PPU 6.5x55, I settled to trimming to 2.163" Spec is 2.155"-2.165". I have since procured a carbide cutter that makes much easier trimming. And have taken to trimming closer, or to, trim-to length.

Wish I could talk as pretty as you do.

 

[Spitpatch]

Mainly because of being lazy. I'm using the RCBS trimmer. My brass did not grow exactly the same after firing. I would trim to the length of pieces that grew the least. Not wanting to sit there and grind .010"+ off 100-160 pieces of once fired by me PPU 6.5x55, I settled to trimming to 2.163" Spec is 2.155"-2.165". I have since procured a carbide cutter that makes much easier trimming. And have taken to trimming closer, or to, trim-to length.

Wish I could talk as pretty as you do.

Geez, Wally. No need to get mushy 'n' stuff.

 

[Xmark1]

I use a small base sizing die on the range brass I pick up by the thousands. I have too because I don't know anything about it.
I use a regular sizing die if I know the brass is mine and is going to be used in a semi auto.
I neck size only, fire formed brass fired in my bolt guns.

There are many different scenarios for sizing & lube choices.
When I process a batch of 5.56, it's usually about 1,000 cases at a time. A lube pad works best for me in this scenario.
Spray on lube works just fine for neck sizing only.
The base of a cartridge is where the press is under the most load. If I spray a loading tray full of brass with spray lube, how does it get distributed on the case base? You have to pull each case out one at a time and spread the lube with your finger - time consuming.

It appears everyone has a preferred method and even my methods change depending on weather I'm making match grade re-loads or plinking reloads.
For example, when I'm reloading for my 338LM I go so far as to use a meplat trimmer and micrometer seating dies. When I re-load for 5.56, the process of doing so changes depending on if I'm creating 77 grain SMK's or NCC's for competition verses 55 grain loads for freehand CQC practice.

 

[Mono1]

To clean the cases after
loading or sizing only, I spray the cases with water and roll them in a bath towel.

Microfiber towels work great, too. In case the Missus doesn't want that particular use for a bath towel.

 

[msgriff]

Another user here of homemade. 10:1 of 99% isopropyl alcohol and liquid lanolin.