Guns & Guitars anyone?

[HiFi Magnetics]

A lot of guitars get shipped out with the bridges mounted in the wrong place. A lot of time the are too close toward the nut. What brand is it? Does it have a traditional bridge and tail piece design?

Sometimes if you ditch the tailpiece you can go with a wrap around like on the SG specials of old or like the ones on some of the modern Gretsch Electomatics or the old Super Axe. They have those long screws to set the bridge back from the studs. It may look weird, but it makes for easy work if you just want a functional guitar.

I know what you mean and I'm on-board with you on the early wrap around tailpiece. I'm not sure if it's gonna work?
Do you want me to take a picture?

 

[1911Fanatic]

I know what you mean and I'm on-board with you on the early wrap around tailpiece. I'm not sure if it's gonna work?
Do you want me to take a picture?

Sure.

 

[HiFi Magnetics]

Sure.

Okay I'll be back....

 

[1911Fanatic]

Kinda like this

 

[1911Fanatic]

What's your opinion about this? I want the traditional Gibson Roar Sound. Have you remember the sound of Barnes from 38 Special and Mick Jones of Foreigner? I want like that!


View attachment 2251307

You will likely have to drill with that set up if your system is a typical Gibson ABR 1 type. If it has the insets like the Nashville type you may be ok. Got a pic of your guitar?

 

[1911Fanatic]

If intonation is an issue with the standard Gibson type bridge, the one on the Gretsch above will likely solve the problem if you are running out of the ability to lengthen a string.

 

[HiFi Magnetics]

Sanded so poorly... But you'll see the Mahogany grain all over the guitar.

 

[HiFi Magnetics]

If intonation is an issue with the standard Gibson type bridge, the one on the Gretsch above will likely solve the problem if you are running out of the ability to lengthen a string.

That's exactly what I mean. On this one, the D is a bit short. But who knows it might be a different story when I get the US made bridge.

 

[orygun]

I'm kind of trying to save opening some threading topics since this might not go for a long conversation.

No grief from me. I enjoy seeing old threads pop back up, even if it's not something I'm involved with.
I have a guitar, but haven't plucked a string for so long, I should pass it along to a young person with interest.

 

[1911Fanatic]

If you are having an intonation problem on your G string, you may be able to just turn that saddle around as well.

 

[1911Fanatic]

If your bridge is made of Zamack, as a lot of cheap bridges are you won't have a powerful sound. Steel or even aluminum are better. I have seen some nice ones that are brass, but those aren't as bright.

 

[HiFi Magnetics]

If you are having an intonation problem on your G string, you may be able to just turn that saddle around as well.

Oh good to know. So its either way it will work fine. But I have to invert the saddle if that's correct?

 

[HiFi Magnetics]

If your bridge is made of Zamack, as a lot of cheap bridges are you won't have a powerful sound. Steel or even aluminum are better. I have seen some nice ones that are brass, but those aren't as bright.

I want a real good one. I don't care if the bridge i Gibson or no as long as it will deliver the sound. I play a Stratoblaster for a very long time.
There's only 2 vibrato that I will use. The original Fender Lead fixed bridge or the 1980's Floyd German Nickel. I can make the floyd sound "close enough" to the traditional Fender sound with a good dive and pull that doesn't go out of tune. It has to be hard steel bridge tremolo or steel nickel plated.
But on the gibson is a different story because I have less experience in this guitar.

 

[1911Fanatic]

Oh good to know. So its either way it will work fine. But I have to invert the saddle if that's correct?

If you want to use your original set up, you can reverse the saddle on the adjustment screw so that the bearing surface is further toward the tailpiece/strap button. Or if you are using a really heavy string, a thinner gauge may be enough to solve the problem.

 

[1911Fanatic]

If you have a guitar with a Floyd Rose, if you lower the retention bar enough, you won't have to use the fine tuners at all after locking down the nut. Just FYI. That's how Brad Gillis gets away with using the old Floyd without the fine tuners.

The key there is that the strings make good strong contact on the flat surface where the strings exit the nut on the way to the tuners. So many companies get that wrong. Carvin was the worst about that. Just info.

 

[HiFi Magnetics]

If you are having an intonation problem on your G string, you may be able to just turn that saddle around as well.

The whole structure of the bridge is not that good. When It do a palm muting, it goes off from time to time. And when I look at my tuner pick a string. it travels up and down. So initially this bridge is no good at all.
Good thing you mentioned too. The other thing is on my old Stratoblaster, I use 11-52 gauge Dean Markley pure nickel. It was very easy for me to play uit long ago because I was playing all the time. Now it felt like it's somebody else's guitar.
It is more likely, I'm gonna end changing the Gibson string to at least 10-46.
But I don't know yet.

 

[1911Fanatic]

Oh good to know. So it's either way it will work fine. But I have to invert the saddle if that's correct?

Not invert it. Just flip it around. The knife edge will the be more toward the tailpiece. That will work on any of the saddles if you need more length added to the string. What gauge set are you using. The fact that you are having that trouble on a wound string makes me wonder if you are using heavy gauge strings.

 

[HiFi Magnetics]

If you have a guitar with a Floyd Rose, if you lower the retention bar enough, you won't have to use the fine tuners at all after locking down the nut. Just FYI. That's how Brad Gillis gets away with using the old Floyd without the fine tuners.

The key there is that the strings make good strong contact on the flat surface where the strings exit the nut on the way to the tuners. So many companies get that wrong. Carvin was the worst about that. Just info.

Oh I didnt know that. Are you talking about the old Carving or the new Kiesel?

 

[1911Fanatic]

The whole structure of the bridge is not that good. When It do a palm muting, it goes off from time to time. And when I look at my tuner pick a string. it travels up and down. So initially this bridge is no good at all.
Good thing you mentioned too. The other thing is on my old Stratoblaster, I use 11-52 gauge Dean Markley pure nickel. It was very easy for me to play uit long ago because I was playing all the time. Now it felt like it's somebody else's guitar.
It is more likely, I'm gonna end changing the Gibson string to at least 10-46.
But I don't know yet.

What gauge is on the Gibby clone now?

 

[HiFi Magnetics]

Not invert it. Just flip it around. The knife edge will the be more toward the tailpiece. That will work on any of the saddles if you need more length added to the string. What gauge set are you using. The fact that you are having that trouble on a wound string makes me wonder if you are using heavy gauge strings.

Good to know. So its not gonna mute if the saddle triangular base is in the opposite ?