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centerfire rifle, for consistent accuracy and velocity.For a Ruger LCP, or a 1000 yard benchrest rifle?
Do you do anything to prep the new brass or just load it up as is out of the box?In my personal experience, it hasn't made much difference. Especially since I'm full length resizing.
Generally just run a carbide mandrel down through the mouth to ensure proper ID/neck tension.Do you do anything to prep the new brass or just load it up as is out of the box?
The one and only time I bought new brass I prepped it normally, FL sized & trimmed. It was not ready to load out of the bag.Do you do anything to prep the new brass or just load it up as is out of the box?
I had edited my post, but the accuracy you're currently getting is part of the equation. If you getting 1" 5 shot groups at 100 yards, I doubt it matters. 1/2" and it might help.centerfire rifle, for consistent accuracy and velocity.
Do you only bump the shoulder back or do you size to the die?The one and only time I bought new brass I prepped it normally, FL sized & trimmed. It was not ready to load out of the bag.
I full length sized it, like I do everything.Do you only bump the shoulder back or do you size to the die?
In my limited experience this is what Im finding too, even below saami spec, and includes full length sizing dies. Which is why Im curious how much the fireforming part takes away from velocity or accuracy, as Im learning to control my shoulder bump process.I would imagine most Virgin brass is undersized. That's been my experience so far anyway.
Try it out and let us know what you find.In my limited experience this is what Im finding too, even below saami spec, and includes full length sizing dies. Which is why Im curious how much the fireforming part takes away from velocity or accuracy, as Im learning to control my shoulder bump process.
I will find out eventually but I think for my current beginner level of shooting it wont matter much but might as I improve my group sizes (nod to @RX-79G comment above). What Ive been thinking of is ordering some really cheap bullets to use just for fireforming but not certain if its worth it yet.I'd be curious to see what difference you find.
All I have is a Redding FL die. Ive just recently become aware of other dies that use bushings to control neck tension and not certain yet if I need to invest as Im still learning basics of sizing and working my ES and group size down.Generally just run a carbide mandrel down through the mouth to ensure proper ID/neck tension.
I've generally avoided neck sizing due to the fact that unless your neck has zero thickness variation, you're just pushing the irregularities back into the inside of the mouth and making the outside round.I will find out eventually but I think for my current beginner level of shooting it wont matter much but might as I improve my group sizes (nod to @RX-79G comment above). What Ive been thinking of is ordering some really cheap bullets to use just for fireforming but not certain if its worth it yet.
All I have is a Redding FL die. Ive just recently become aware of other dies that use bushings to control neck tension and not certain yet if I need to invest as Im still learning basics of sizing and working my ES and group size down.
Ive found that minor dents form right out and doesn't seem to affect performance but I don't see how much larger brass movement from way undersized (virgin brass) geometry to chamber geometry doesn't take away from pressure.Try it out and let us know what you find.
I know that case will rapidly expand to fill the chamber.
There are many variables in play here.Lets say you develop a load you want to use and want to produce larger quantities...
How much does virgin brass affect a recipe developed from fireformed brass?
Im still fairly new at this but this is my guess that new brass will reduce velocity with an established load. Since my application is hunting Im using expensive premium hunting bullets so Ive been contemplating buying some cheap bullets just for fireforming. Ive also thought about working up to a "new case" load recipe but decided that if there is that much of a difference then I would just fireform them first with the cheap bullets. Being new, I just dont know first hand and as usual... in my rifle it might not be a big enough difference.In my experience your velocity will drop using new brass with an established load. It will likely affect accuracy negatively also, but you won't know until you test it.
If you're trying to be frugal with components, prep a small sample using new cases and a range of powder increases. Maybe +0.4 grains of powder, 3 shots each, up to +1.2 or 1.6 grains. See if any of those trials returns comparable velocity and accuracy. If one does, call that your fire-forming load for new cases. Don't be surprised if it's not quite as good as the original with formed cases.
In reality, I don't think true load development for accuracy can really begin until you've fully formed the cases. But it all depends on the accuracy you're satisfied with and your willingness to expend components to get there.