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I've been working on my build since last week, first frame I definitely messed up so it got cut into a bunch of small pieces.(locking block was out of spec also)
Literally praying this works out well, first build and I'm hoping it will run well. I've read these have a break in period of 100-200 rounds, will update after range trip.
Already makes me want to build another one, I originally intended not to use power tools but, I bought a drill last night and finished the whole project in about 3.5-4 hours with just a cheap drill and files.
For anyone thinking of building one I recommend drilling the area for the recoil spring assembly it will be a lot of filing otherwise.(unless you have a dremel, which I did not)

IMG_0018.jpg
 
I've read these have a break in period of 100-200 rounds
I bought a drill last night.
For anyone thinking of building one I recommend drilling the area for the recoil spring assembly
Not necessarily. The rail alignment and smoothness varies from frame to frame, so if it's a bit rough you really have three options. Manually manipulate the slide a few hundred times, try and wear it into smoothness with a few hundred rounds.. or... do a little tweaking and finish work on the rails until it will cycle smoothly.

I prefer the last option because it creates the least amount of "abusive" working in. Exessive wear on the rails and upper slide channels could lead to premature upper "slop". On rougher frames I've noticed things like the lower rails not being at a true 90 degree angle, edge burrs, uneven plating or rails are out of balance. Ie., "flat" on both sides so the rail channel is only riding on forward or back rail corners instead of evenly across the full length of the rail.

All the above is correctable with a bit more effort and fine tuning.

Not sure how you would do the pin holes very successfully without a drill.

A dremel type tool really is ideal for the recoil spring channel. True that! The tabs and such, there are alternatives to remove the vast majority of them that makes it go much quicker and cleaner. Wire or nail type cutters to clip off as much as possible before moving to a file seems to be the speediest/easiest.

I would say a drill would be the absolute minimum tool required, but if you have them... snips/clippers are great. Files.. of course, wet dry sandpaper in various grits, a bench vise and a dremel will have give you a much nicer finish job with the minimal amount of elbow grease.

They ARE addictive!

Congrats!

Edit: TIP! Use a permanent marker to color your frame rails. Cycle the upper a few times then check the rails to determine the wear pattern. Fine tune in small increments and repeat the process as needed.
 
Last Edited:
Not necessarily. The rail alignment and smoothness varies from frame to frame, so if it's a bit rough you really have three options. Manually manipulate the slide a few hundred times, try and wear it into smoothness with a few hundred rounds.. or... do a little tweaking and finish work on the rails until it will cycle smoothly.

I prefer the last option because it creates the least amount of "abusive" working in. Exessive wear on the rails and upper slide channels could lead to premature upper "slop". On rougher frames I've noticed things like the lower rails not being at a true 90 degree angle, edge burrs, uneven plating or rails are out of balance. Ie., "flat" on both sides so the rail channel is only riding on forward or back rail corners instead of evenly across the full length of the rail.

All the above is correctable with a bit more effort and fine tuning.

Not sure how you would do the pin holes very successfully without a drill.

A dremel type tool really is ideal for the recoil spring channel. True that! The tabs and such, there are alternatives to remove the vast majority of them that makes it go much quicker and cleaner. Wire or nail type cutters to clip off as much as possible before moving to a file seems to be the speediest/easiest.

I would say a drill would be the absolute minimum tool required, but if you have them... snips/clippers are great. Files.. of course, wet dry sandpaper in various grits, a bench vise and a dremel will have give you a much nicer finish job with the minimal amount of elbow grease.

They ARE addictive!

Congrats!
Thanks for the tips. I think my next one is going to be a G26 or G43 build.
I can see now why people usually build more than one, its quite fun, like LEGO's but for adults.
 

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