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The dillon works great for high volume brass processing. If you only have 4-500 rnds of brass, then maybe one of the others wold work better. I use mine to process 5.56, 7.62 and 30-06 and would never give it up. With the trimmer set up on my 650 I can deprime, size and trim 5.56 at a rate of about 1k per hour. It was great physical therapy after my rotate cuff surgery :s0112:
 
So after you trim do you still have to chamfer? Also how do the rounds cycle through an AR. I was having issues until I started using a small base sizing die. The Dillons are not SB dies (or so I've been told).
 
I have a few of the RT1200s and have used them for a few years (for better or worse), they do work, and for loading bulk .223 they do a good job, however you do tend to get a fair degree of stripping (shaving off the material of the jacket) which is no-bueno for accuracy, but if you're goal is 4" at 100 yards it's fine.

The RT1200 is kinda've a pain to get configured, and you must run a shop-vac to keep the shavings from piling up and messing up the works, also, the airflow helps keep the motor cool that without that high flow air gets too hot to touch after only a few minutes of operation. Also, if you do end up getting one of these, make sure you have the bench wrench, and the combo wrench, securing the die down takes a fair degree of torque, and it's difficult to get other tools in there. Without the thing torqued down properly the vibration will inevitably break the motor or the die loose and precision goes all to hell.

If you're looking for a mid-volume solution, the gracey or the giraud trimmers are the way to go. After looking at both, I ended up just buying the gracey tool, the main reason was cost (gracey is about 1/2 the giraud) and I have absolutely no regrets about going with the gracey tool, and use it for all of my bolt action brass. The gracey rather than just having a carbide chit like the dillon tool does, has two compound high speed steel blades, which do a better job of cutting brass in my experience, one cuts the outside of the case, the other chamfers the inside. I went the extra-mile and just buy spare cutting heads for my gracey rather than repeatedly making adjustments to it.

Match Prep, Home of the Gracey Power Carrtidge Case Trimmer
 
So after you trim do you still have to chamfer? Also how do the rounds cycle through an AR. I was having issues until I started using a small base sizing die. The Dillons are not SB dies (or so I've been told).

I have three AR's, one factory built and the other two are customs I built. All the ammo I produce for them is trimmed with a "1200". I have had zero issues with the trimmer. AMProducts is correct that you have to use a vac. I have a small "Hang Up" shop vac which has about a 1-gallon tank. Fits nicely at the end of my bench, hanging on the side of it. A piece of Goodyear, 90 degree radiator hose re-directs the suction port down on the trimmer so all is streamlined around the press.

The cutter is an ultra sharp carbide tool which can be turned to three different positions when wear becomes apparent. As long as the bit is trimming with a sharp edge there are no apparent burrs, inside or out. Also don't see any scraping of the bullet as it's seated.

The trimmer is a little difficult to set up but once done it works great. Remember, it's not just a trimmer, it's also a sizing die too. As for SB, no, I don't believe it is but I've never had any issues with my brass needing one.

My 1200 is set up for use on my Dillon 650 on a separate tool head. I deprime with a universal die in Sta #1 and the trimmer in Sta #4. A little spray lube on the cases and into the case feeder. I deprime and trim around 1,000 to 1,200 cases per hour if my arm holds up (I have a Press Monitor which keeps track of the number of cases processed as well as the rate per hour). The unit can also be used on a single stage press with a little slower throughput.

I don't like the Gracy or Giraud trimmers as you have to spend a mini-fortune on a machine that merely trims and chamfers. Still have to size as a separate operation. For my AR's it isn't necessary.

For my Bolt Action Rifles, which I load everything on a single stage, I prefer to size "F/L with a Forster Bench Rest Die and neck size only with a Lee Collet die. I then Trim using an RCBS Trimmer with a 3-Way head. Unlike the Giraud, I can adjust the chamfer and deburr amounts to my own likes. If I were shooting my .308 or 30-06 in an Autoloader I'd then use the Rapid Trim.

On the need for Small Base Dies, this is usually brought about by using Military once-fired brass that's been through a SAW. The lower side wall expands more than usual due to the high rate of fire. The chamber has a little more slop to allow for more flawless feed at the higher cyclic rate. Once this "bulge" has been removed with a SB die that's usually the last of this issue. I guess I'm just lucky and haven't had the issue in over 10,000 pieces of brass I've collected from the range, most of it once fired military.
 
After looking at what others are using I feel like my system is like training wheels on a tricycle.

Trim Pro-2 Manual Case Trimmer Kit

Trim Pro Case Trimmer 3-Way Cutter 22 Cal

Don't despair. I still use an old RCBS trimmer that uses the old collet type case holder. It's somewhere around 30 years old. I just added a 3-way cutter head with carbide cutter. I use this trimmer almost every day. Have it mounted to a "lap board" and trim cases while watching the evening news. Just have to be careful when I get out of my chair that I don't spill the chips. A great trimmer for rifle cases I use for my .308 "fly killer" ( I like splattering fly's that land on my target during the summer months")

No way I'm going to use this trimmer for .223 when I usually load 3,000+ rounds in a "run".
 
Law enforcement, loaded with lead free primers and lead free bullets. Stuff ain't going to be cheap, but intended for a market where shell casings never get returned.

All the FLETC went lead free a while ago, and winchester, ATK, and many of the other companies out there are still having issues filling contracts, and cost effective. Brass is a huge expense, and if you're only going to use it once, make it out of something that should only be used once. Frankly, I've never understood the general aversion to aluminum cases, I love blazer and buy tons of it whenever I can get my hands on it. If you can find the old CCI/Lawman that was loaded with the aluminum cases, it's great because a full mag weighs a few oz less than brass ammo, it's shocking how light it can be.
 
Frankly, I've never understood the general aversion to aluminum cases,

For the most part it's OK. I've used some in revolvers with no issues but have had some extractor problems in semi's. Not when firing but when unloading.

I also hated it as I couldn't reload it. Ranges hate it because you can't hand separate it from the steel and brass with a magnet. A few local ranges have banned it for that reason.

As for trying to fill in behind companies like "Windcutter" and ATK, they'll be back in production in a big way in not too many more months. The Government will be cutting back on their contracts with the almost finished withdrawal from Iraq and the impending departure from Afghanistan. They'll be hard to beat on price because they'll do whatever necessary to get the contracts. Good Luck.
 
Well I am not producing ammo for sale, but I am doing bulk prep for myself. I just got the RT 1200B and love it. So far it has performed flawlessly, and I have no doubt in my mind that it will continue to do so in the future. Another fantastic product from Dillon!! Thanks for the replies all!
 
I picked up a Forster power case trimmer kit for the drill press. It is significantly cheaper than the Dillon (if you already have a drill press) and caliber changes are quick and easy. The trim length is set by the drill press vertical stop.
 
I picked up a Forster power case trimmer kit for the drill press. It is significantly cheaper than the Dillon (if you already have a drill press) and caliber changes are quick and easy. The trim length is set by the drill press vertical stop.

And it's accuracy depends totally on that vertical "Depth Stop". Not the most sturdy item on some cheap drill presses. Otherwise a good tool. I'd rather see it have a depth stop on the cutter like the horizontal lathe types.
 

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