Dillon vs Hornady

[Grommit327]

Lee dies have worked in my 550 so far

 

[deadshot2]

I don't know if Dillon has a micrometer system as easy as the Hornday. On my Hornady I use the micrometer inserts on the powder measure. Its great. I have one for the standard rotor and one for the pistol rotor. It's dead on accurate as all get out and doesn't leak, even the fine powders.

Dillon doesn't offer the micrometer system but one is available from Unique Tek

For myself, I prefer to do what AMProducts does. I have several powder bars which I merely leave set to the powder/load that I commonly run. It takes only a minute or so to swap the bar in the powder measure. They are about $20 each but once set for a given powder and load, all it takes is a quick check and you are off and running. Having one for each of the 4 calibers is less expensive than buying only one extra powder measure. Since I got both the large and small with my first measure I only needed to buy two more large for my 1 pistol and 3 rifle calibers.

 

[Gas]

Let me speak from experiance with both. First off, I had a hornady LNL. I had many issues with it, however Hornady did take care of me. There caliber change over is like night and day over dillon. Very easy, and quick. That being said, I did sell it and Iam not looking back.

I just loaded 500 rounds today in about 2 hours on my XL650. No way I could do that with the hornady. It would always get out of alignment, turn over the primers, snag a case, etc. I had to do more wrenching and adjusting than loading.

Change overs on the dillon are a PITA, to be honest, I have yet to do one. You have to adjust this, replace that, etc. I will in the future by the complete change over kit which includes another powder measure. It is more expensive this way, but once it is set in the block, you remove 2 pins and change overs take about 3 seconds. Problem is, buying double everything for the powder measures.

I called dillon today, I found a small white plastic nut that I had no idea where it went, they knew exactly what it was, and where it went. And they sent me two new ones just incase.

I would go Dillon if you have the coin to do so.

 

[deadshot2]

I just loaded 500 rounds today in about 2 hours on my XL650. No way I could do that with the hornady. It would always get out of alignment, turn over the primers, snag a case, etc. I had to do more wrenching and adjusting than loading.

Change overs on the dillon are a PITA, to be honest, I have yet to do one. You have to adjust this, replace that, etc. I will in the future by the complete change over kit which includes another powder measure. It is more expensive this way, but once it is set in the block, you remove 2 pins and change overs take about 3 seconds. Problem is, buying double everything for the powder measures.

You hit on probably the one reason I like my Dillon 650. I can set up for a particular caliber and run thousands of rounds without having to "futz around" with anything. Add cases to the case feeder, powder to the measure, and primers when the alarm goes off. Go away for a couple of days, come back and pick up where I left off, only checking the powder drop as a matter of safety. It just keeps on running without all those little annoying adjustments that seem to be the norm for other progressives.

As for Caliber changes, yes, you can invest in the expensive change kits complete with toolhead and powder measure. I got some tips from Brian Enos when I purchased mine that can save big bucks while not adding tons of time.

Have a toolhead for each caliber
Install a powder die on each tool head so all you need to do is move the powder dispenser (2 screws on the retainer clamp)
Have a powder bar for each caliber. Once adjusted for the powder you use with that caliber, just swap out the bar. (1 screw on the bellcrank)

I have the powder check as well so I have 2 powder dies on each toolhead.

Once the dies are installed and all are adjusted you don't need to touch them any more on the Dillon than you would on any other press.

The most difficult part of the changeover is changing the shell holder. Have mine down to about a minute although I only change calibers about once per month when it's time to re-stock a particular one.

Eventually I will add the powder dispensers to each toolhead but more as a matter of choice rather than necessity.


Just an interesting added note: I've always loaded my "accuracy" loads on a single stage with powder dispensed from an RCBS Chargemaster. Every round had weighed powder charges. OAL checked on every round when taken out of the bullet seating step. These were the rounds I used to make ragged little holes of less than .250" on a regular basis. I wondered how accurate the ammo produced on my 650 would be so I ran a couple hundred rounds last week. Using Winchester bulk brass, Wolf Large Rifle Primers, Barget, and Nosler Custom Competition bullets I "let 'er rip". After checking the first 10 rounds for powder weight and OAL, I ran the remaining batch of just over 200 pieces. Took them to the range last Tuesday and tested them. Speeds were precisely the same as the rounds loaded on my single stage with individually weighed powder loads. At 100 yards had one group that measured .131". Even better at 200 yards. Although there was a light wind the rounds had a vertical spread of less than .1". (The bullets are boat tailed and seem to stabilize only after they have run longer than 100 yards.)

When checking the rounds prior to heading off to the range they had less than .002" variation in OAL and runout was .0025 or less.

When it comes to accuracy of the ammo produced, Dillon meets the test.

Speed, Accuracy, Reliability, must be that "blue paint"

 

[nforest]

I have the Hornady. When I first set it up I spilled a case of powder which jammed the primer plate and bent the primer cam rod. A call to Hornady and they sent me all new free parts and some duplicates. This was after i told them it was my fault. They also express shipped them on their dime.

The LNL bushings are as good as it gets. It takes my about 10 min to change from pistol to rifle and be cranking them out. AMAZING MACHINE!

I also use Lee Carbide dies in my LNL. They work great

 

[GuyBMeredith]

Both are good units and in most ways the choice comes down to personal preference. I had the perception that there were more tricksy mechanical links on the Dillon than the Hornady so I opted for simplicity.

I have one of the earlier Hornady LNLs. The original primer system and case ejector were interesting experiences, but the operation is smooth, die change out easy and powder drop so consistent as to be boring. When Hornady upgraded the knuckle that does the advance they sent me one gratis as they have several other parts.

I have installed the new primer system and case eject and the LNL is now at full stride. It is smooth as silk and a true pleasure to use.

 

[AMProducts]

In terms of dillon powder measures, you have to be somewhat careful, as the powder measures often vary in how much throw they have, so playing musical powder measures is something of a crap shoot. For the machines I deal with at work, for common loads we have one powder measure, with a set-screwed charge bar to keep it from walking. We use this on all cartridges that use that charge (for pistol that's most of the large stuff). The bar-swapping technique works really well with this, and when loading pistol ammo, swapping out the half-sized bars is a cinch, pull the pin on the front, push that spacer out, hold the cam mechanism all the way back (otherwise that white thing falls out) lift the bar up, and pull it out forward, installing a new bar is the opposite of removal. For the full height bars, just back out the screw on the cam mechanism, and very carefully pull it to the side (I hold the measure on the right side to keep the white thing from falling out). You will also need a 3/8" box wrench to back out the screw unless you have the older type that don't have the nylock washer, but have two jam nuts.

The micrometer adjuster for the dillon measures is kinda pointless, the adjustment for most powder measures is fine enough to not really matter, if you want the hyper-precision, I think someone sells inserts for the powder die that gives you a funnel, if you don't want to spend the money, leave the die and the powder funnel in there, and sometimes you can simply put an RCBS powder funnel (the opaque one, not the clear one) in top of the die and it fits tightly enough not to fall out. If you have access to a lathe, you can also make a nice funnel out of aluminum that you can put one of the larger commercial powder funnels onto. Just dispense your powder into your scale, trickle to weight, and pour in at the top of the stroke.

 

[warnerwh]

Actually you can use Lee dies at least on the Dillon XL 650 and I don't know if the 550 would be the same. You have to put the locking nut on bottom and you have one thread to lock the die with (I called Lee on this). Lee's threaded area is shorter. I did not feel comfortable with the way the Lee dies were held in place and bought some RCBS dies but did use the Lee dies for a while when I first got it.

 

[deadshot2]

Actually you can use Lee dies at least on the Dillon XL 650 and I don't know if the 550 would be the same. You have to put the locking nut on bottom and you have one thread to lock the die with (I called Lee on this). Lee's threaded area is shorter. I did not feel comfortable with the way the Lee dies were held in place and bought some RCBS dies but did use the Lee dies for a while when I first got it.

I'm using Lee dies for some of my calibers on my 650 and find that they lock just fine. I use the Dillon Lock Nut, not the Lee aluminum/o-ring lock nut. The O-ring that Lee insists on using in their lock nuts takes away threads at the bottom of the lock nut. If you don't have an extra Dillon lock nut, just turn the Lee over. It's not that big a deal to put the nut on the bottom as once adjusted, I don't need to mess with them again. If one is too tight to invest in another tool head, it can then be a hassle.

 

[jlittlewolf]

I pulled the Hornady LNLAP outta the box made sure everything was working properly... Set her up and an hour later after that I had 450 rounds of .45acp ready to goto the range... Sorry guys... My vote goes to the Hornady.. Super impressed for the more bang for your buck! Powder throw was dead nuts accurate to boot! Not sure about the dies yet... But there was enough money left over to find out! Although I might just go straight for the redding! And yes I have played with the Dillon 550b and the 650 as well... I just preferred the Hornady... The primer tray on the dillon scared the boop outta me... Specially after we saw it chain bang!

 

[XSubSailor]

Another advantage of the Hornady LnL AP is that Hornady recently released a bullet feeder for it that's getting very good reviews.

 

[ernurse]

so Im crazy and love my hornady single stage, its my time away from the world and the wife, I do large lots in stages, I`ll decap, resize and prime 300 of one caliber be it pistol or rifle and then store them that way, when its time to load i just pull em out fill em seat the bullet and im ready to go, I can do larger volumes this way and do it often enough that i dont have to try and mass produce ammo, cause after I shoot the process starts all over again after I clean my guns., sure its slow and old fashioned but it works for me, and there best single stage dies are cheap enough. and theres is nothing to really break or jam up.

 

[deadshot2]

and there best single stage dies are cheap enough. and theres is nothing to really break or jam up.

So where does one buy "progressive dies" or for that matter, anything but single stage dies????

I find those "cheap dies" made by LEE do a fine job on my XL-650 Dillon. In fact the seater die for my rifle loads from Lee works better than Dillons, Redding, and RCBS, at least their standard dies. Haven't found the need for "Competition Dies".

 

[XSubSailor]

So where does one buy "progressive dies" or for that matter, anything but single stage dies????

I find those "cheap dies" made by LEE do a fine job on my XL-650 Dillon. In fact the seater die for my rifle loads from Lee works better than Dillons, Redding, and RCBS, at least their standard dies. Haven't found the need for "Competition Dies".

Both Dillon and Redding sell 3-die sets that substitute a separate crimp die for the expander die typical in most 3-die sets. Redding calls them their "pro" sets to distinguish them from their standard 3-die sets with expander and seater/crimp die. These sets assume that the user has a progressive press with a PTX (powder thru expander) in the powder station. A separate crimp die is advantageous especially when using non-jacketed lead bullets, since use of a combination seating/crimp die frequently results in lead shaving.

 

[deadshot2]

Both Dillon and Redding sell 3-die sets that substitute a separate crimp die for the expander die typical in most 3-die sets. Redding calls them their "pro" sets to distinguish them from their standard 3-die sets with expander and seater/crimp die. These sets assume that the user has a progressive press with a PTX (powder thru expander) in the powder station. A separate crimp die is advantageous especially when using non-jacketed lead bullets, since use of a combination seating/crimp die frequently results in lead shaving.

You forgot Lee. They've sold a separate Crimping die for some time. Many loaders have chosen to crimp as a separate operation for years for all the reasons you stated as well as "deformed cases". Had nothing to do with "Progressive" presses as most were "single stage" or "turret" users. Redding has just decided to use this as a marketing feature as there is no difference in the dies.

Only difference in dies I have been able to find so far is that Dillon Dies have longer threaded portions as they use a thick Tool Head on their presses. Lee Dies tend to be shorter and often require that one place the lock nut on the bottom of the tool head. Still works the same.

As for the "Numbers Game", Lee also offers a 4-Die set for rifle loading. Size/Deprime (F/L), Collet Neck Sizing/deprime, Seater, and Factory Crimp, usually for the price of what others get for their 2-die sets.

 

[shoe]

Though I do not own either press, I have had the chance use both pretty thoroughly. Both presses were amazing, the Dillon + it's accessories felt like they were machined with care & extreme precision. The Hornady also felt amazing but I PERSONALLY didn't think it felt as "perfect" as the Dillon.

I am currently shopping for a AP and am honestly looking at the Hornady more just due to the fact that caliber change-overs are just so much easier and cheaper. The quick change bushings are a god send in my book.

I will say I will be using a Dillon electric trimmer and their carbide rifle dies once I decide I can drop the money.

 

[deadshot2]

Though I do not own either press, I have had the chance use both pretty thoroughly. Both presses were amazing, the Dillon + it's accessories felt like they were machined with care & extreme precision. The Hornady also felt amazing but I PERSONALLY didn't think it felt as "perfect" as the Dillon.

I am currently shopping for a AP and am honestly looking at the Hornady more just due to the fact that caliber change-overs are just so much easier and cheaper. The quick change bushings are a god send in my book.

I will say I will be using a Dillon electric trimmer and their carbide rifle dies once I decide I can drop the money.

A couple of things to remember about "carbide" rifle dies. Unlike straight walled pistol caliber dies the rifle carbide dies REQUIRE lube. Their ONLY benefit is that they resist wear if you are a high volume loader. High volume meaning in the 100,000 round or more category. A dillon carbide sizing die will cost you in the neighborhood of $125. A standard steel die from Lee, about $20 with Redding, RCBS, Hornady, etc running $10-$15 more. These less expensive dies will last the average enthusiast into the next generation without signs of wear. I have a Redding and LEE steel sizing die in .223 caliber that have seen well over 50k rounds each. Still do a great job with no signs of failing any time soon.

As for the Dillon Rapid Trim 1200, it makes the job of trimming very short work.

 

[shoe]

A couple of things to remember about "carbide" rifle dies. Unlike straight walled pistol caliber dies the rifle carbide dies REQUIRE lube. Their ONLY benefit is that they resist wear if you are a high volume loader. High volume meaning in the 100,000 round or more category. A dillon carbide sizing die will cost you in the neighborhood of $125. A standard steel die from Lee, about $20 with Redding, RCBS, Hornady, etc running $10-$15 more. These less expensive dies will last the average enthusiast into the next generation without signs of wear. I have a Redding and LEE steel sizing die in .223 caliber that have seen well over 50k rounds each. Still do a great job with no signs of failing any time soon.

As for the Dillon Rapid Trim 1200, it makes the job of trimming very short work.

Wow thank you for saying that, the only reason why I'd get a Dillon Carbide die was so I wouldn't have to lube. Looks like I need to get a lube die then, any recommendations?

 

[deadshot2]

Wow thank you for saying that, the only reason why I'd get a Dillon Carbide die was so I wouldn't have to lube. Looks like I need to get a lube die then, any recommendations?

I've got to say I like Lee dies. They are inexpensive and I have yet to own one that didn't work just fine. They aren't as shiny polished as the more expensive but all the ammo I produce looks just as good as the stuff I see at the range that's loaded with the more expensive dies.

One thing I really like about my Lee Dies is the sizing die has a relief hole drilled in the shoulder area. This vents any excess lube and prevents the shoulder dents that show up when there is too much lube on the case. I have a nice expensive Redding die that dents dad-gum every .223 case that goes through it. If I over lube one case by the smallest amount it dents that case and the next 20 unless I take it apart and clean it. No issue with the Lee.

I've also noticed that a lot of the Bench Rest shooters at my club also like the Lee Collet die for neck sizing. No lube required on this die as the collet squeezes the neck against a mandrel. No scraping and rather than size the neck too small, then expanding it to the desired size, it only works the neck enough to get the job done.

If loading for a bolt action, this collet die is great for ammo you have already shot in the same rifle.

If I were to buy a die other than Lee, it would probably be a Redding even though I have issues with the sizing die. I'd just have to watch my lube process closer.

 

[AMProducts]

stay away from lube dies, they just make a mess typically no matter who makes them.

if you are careful, and want to do 1-pass reloading (size, prime, charge, and seat) the best way to do this is to get some of your wife's rubber gloves, and spray it with a thin coating of lanolin based lubricant (dillon, one-shot, RCBS, or make your own) and then rub your gloves all over in your big bucket of brass, this will guarantee your lube only gets on the outside of the cases, and not on the inside.

I learned my lesson about the carbide sizing dies the hard way some years ago, I spent $80 on the RCBS carbide sizer for .30 carbine, thinking "Great, no more lubing!" that feeling lasted about 3 rounds before one stuck and had to be sent back. But that was probably 20 years ago now. The carbide sizers are great, and worth the money depending on how much ammo you make, also, the carbide is slicker than polished steel, so even though you still need lube, sizing is much easier. When processing brass on the 1050, I usually start with a dillon carbide sizer, and then follow up with a redding small base sizer, and then have a 3rd die set up to expand the case neck. This makes sure all of the sizing operations are done on the downstroke, not on the up-stroke like so many rifle expansion dies.

I openly advocate running any rifle loads in two batches, the first one for sizing/depriming, then cleaning the brass, followed by loading. If you want to spend the money and get the dillon RT1200, you can do all your sizing, decapping, trimming all in one pass through the machine (whichever you have). Then the brass gets soaked in washing solution, dried, and then reloaded just like new ammo. Comes out super pretty.