Coyote Hunting Basics

[Val1884]

Probably not for much longer.....can you snare up there?

Live trap Cages..with little massage hands an fountains with snack bars.. all the feel good features Seattle could impose.

 

[Tlock]

Live trap Cages..with little massage hands an fountains with snack bars.. all the feel good features Seattle could impose.

We arnt far behind you. I've tried a.handfull of times to live trap coyotes.....no luck. Ive caught Lots of cougars, bears and bobcats in cage traps. Dam coyotes are to smart

 

[Val1884]

We arnt far behind you. I've tried a.handfull of times to live trap coyotes.....no luck. Ive caught Lots of cougars, bears and bobcats in cage traps. Dam coyotes are to smart

I'm thinking of a double door culvert used as a live trap..seen lots of coyotes travel thru culverts

 

[Mikej]

From reading "Next Door" up here in The Cully Neighborhood it's apparent that there are quite a few coyotes in The Rose City cemetery and Rose City Park Golf Course. People's outdoor cams are getting them pretty often. And lots of house cats allowed to roam disappear, and show up mangled in people's yards.

 

[Tlock]

From reading "Next Door" up here in The Cully Neighborhood it's apparent that there are quite a few coyotes in The Rose City cemetery and Rose City Park Golf Course. People's outdoor cams are getting them pretty often. And lots of house cats allowed to roam disappear, and show up mangled in people's yards.

They are thick in salem too!

 

[Mikej]

They are thick in salem too!

No doubt, with all the people that let their house cat's roam free. I've always got the irresponsible pet owners cats skulking my bird feeders and craping in the garden beds.

 

[RVTECH]

and show up mangled in people's yards.

If they show up mangled thats typically a bird of prey sign.

Coyotes usually don't leave anything lying around.

 

[Mikej]

If they show up mangled thats typically a bird of prey sign.

Coyotes usually don't leave anything lying around.

I wondered about that. We do have a pair of Bald Eagles we see from time to time. Not terribly uncommon to see one at the top a tall tree in the hood with a murder of crows harassing it.

 

[RVTECH]

Couple years ago a gal in my neighborhood lost her mini-dog.

She found it later on the backside of her property, dead, and poked with holes, most likely from talons of a bird, possibly a Great Horned Owl as we have them around here.

I saw one once, a rare sight, and it was big - about 2' tall.

 

[Twodogs]

We had 5 coyotes hunting through the neighborhood the other night, one would stand in the middle of the street and the others would run through peoples yards hunting cats.
Best advice I ever got on coyote hunting is it's checkers not chest don't overthink it.
$10.00 hand call and a gun and your a coyote hunter.

 

[RVTECH]

Heck keep an eye on your kids!

 

[Mikej]

I saw one once, a rare sight, and it was big - about 2' tall.

Saw one years ago, too. Rabbit hunting in the west desert in Utah. Walking about 50'-75' apart through pinon, cedar and buddy spooked the owl and it flew about 20' or so over my head. That wing span looked like 4'! And them BIG yellow eyes!

 

[Spitpatch]

There is a PRIMARY rule to Coyote calling that is imperative to engage, and if it is ignored, chances of success are reduced to near-nothing.

The "Chess and Checkers" comparison works in areas where the Coyotes are all undergraduates. However, where Coyotes are "worldly" in the ways of humans and calls, no effort should be spared toward your set-up and technique.

Extra attention to detail will result in steady success at a surprising rate.

1,Select your set area carefully, Be able to cover travel routes and shooting lanes and your "6-o'clock". (Cats are famous for coming in quietly BEHIND the hunter).

2.Scent control: Wind direction, body odor, maybe bottled scents are considerations. I've never worn "charcoal-filtered" clothing, but it couldn't hurt.

3. Camoflauge: Advisable, and make sure your white socks don't glare when you sit down. A low-contrast plaid shirt or jacket is just as good as a four-hundred dollar "wonder fabric" Cabela's coat anywhere camo is used. If you are a bowhunter, you are outfitted perfectly. Face covering is a plus.

4. Weapon: One you are familiar with, especially operation in a hurry. As mentioned, #4 Buckshot is an incredibly effective tool to 50 yards. A semi-auto rifle is a good idea. Be able to shoot it fast, more importantly, shoot it well.

5. Comfort. You may only sit at one set for 20-40 minutes (at the outside), but you need to be nearly motionless for that time. Set out things you might need during the session ahead of time: water container, call, ammo, binocs, etc. They should be available with the minimum of movement.

These are the essentials toward the PRIMARY rule: NEVER attempt to call Coyotes in a haphazard, spur-of-the-moment, ill-prepared fashion. If you've ever been stuck in the snow or the mud very much, you have learned that your first attempt to get out (dig, build a short road, chains) MUST be your best attempt, or you will make things worse.

Coyote calling is no different. If you don't do ALL you can to outsmart them, you are handing out Phd.'s not only to the Coyote that arrived for your generous offer of an education, but every Coyote that one communicates with. One failure can ruin an entire area toward further attempts.

Do it seriously every single time. A dog will come in almost every time, and when they come, they come FAST!


A big Montana dog came to the call from a half-mile away. Taken with a first-year production (1964) Winchester Model 70 in .225 Winchester (custom wood), Redfield 6-18x. This set location has paid off repeatedly, due to preparation that prevents a failed attempt. Every dog that fell for the ruse at this location is dead.

 

[Bcam]

If you put together a hunting party I'm in. I got to finish sighting in my AR but I would love to go

 

[ma96782]

Aloha, Mark

 

[coyote223]

Agree with all of it except the "a dog will come in almost every time" part. Don't give them false hope. Even the professionals who do it for a living have dry spells. You must have a lot of properties to to get those kind of numbers, especially when everyone and their mother has a Foxpro,,,

There is a PRIMARY rule to Coyote calling that is imperative to engage, and if it is ignored, chances of success are reduced to near-nothing.

The "Chess and Checkers" comparison works in areas where the Coyotes are all undergraduates. However, where Coyotes are "worldly" in the ways of humans and calls, no effort should be spared toward your set-up and technique.

Extra attention to detail will result in steady success at a surprising rate.

1,Select your set area carefully, Be able to cover travel routes and shooting lanes and your "6-o'clock". (Cats are famous for coming in quietly BEHIND the hunter).

2.Scent control: Wind direction, body odor, maybe bottled scents are considerations. I've never worn "charcoal-filtered" clothing, but it couldn't hurt.

3. Camoflauge: Advisable, and make sure your white socks don't glare when you sit down. A low-contrast plaid shirt or jacket is just as good as a four-hundred dollar "wonder fabric" Cabela's coat anywhere camo is used. If you are a bowhunter, you are outfitted perfectly. Face covering is a plus.

4. Weapon: One you are familiar with, especially operation in a hurry. As mentioned, #4 Buckshot is an incredibly effective tool to 50 yards. A semi-auto rifle is a good idea. Be able to shoot it fast, more importantly, shoot it well.

5. Comfort. You may only sit at one set for 20-40 minutes (at the outside), but you need to be nearly motionless for that time. Set out things you might need during the session ahead of time: water container, call, ammo, binocs, etc. They should be available with the minimum of movement.

These are the essentials toward the PRIMARY rule: NEVER attempt to call Coyotes in a haphazard, spur-of-the-moment, ill-prepared fashion. If you've ever been stuck in the snow or the mud very much, you have learned that your first attempt to get out (dig, build a short road, chains) MUST be your best attempt, or you will make things worse.

Coyote calling is no different. If you don't do ALL you can to outsmart them, you are handing out Phd.'s not only to the Coyote that arrived for your generous offer of an education, but every Coyote that one communicates with. One failure can ruin an entire area toward further attempts.

Do it seriously every single time. A dog will come in almost every time, and when they come, they come FAST!

View attachment 1779010
A big Montana dog came to the call from a half-mile away. Taken with a first-year production (1964) Winchester Model 70 in .225 Winchester (custom wood), Redfield 6-18x. This set location has paid off repeatedly, due to preparation that prevents a failed attempt. Every dog that fell for the ruse at this location is dead.

 

[Spitpatch]

Even the professionals who do it for a living have dry spells.

Correct. I was working in the parameters of operating (as a newbie might, following advice) in fresh country with the assumption the dogs are there. Whether or not the shooter (professional or not) sees the Coyote (or 3 or 5) that came in is an entirely different question. A seemingly "dry" set is often proven otherwise when the shooter stands up to move locations, the dogs having been sitting and watching him (A quick lesson in how much time should be spent at one set.)

Yes, I am entirely guilty of encouraging new people, and I feel the statement I made (including "almost") was not a falsehood.

Do everything right every single time, and in a fresh area holding Coyotes, the results and rate of success (in my experience) are pretty surprising. It's not a crap shoot by any means.


An average sized female taken on the Coast Range with a Marlin Model 62 in .30 Carbine. She was one of a group that balked and sat on their way in. Often in a group, they'll lose caution in favor of competition. This entire group knew better.