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Convince me what is the best Pocket Revolver under $650.00 ( asking for a friend;))

There is the Ruger Hammerless line LCR's in 38 and 9mm
There was lights and a bunch of others manufacturers.
So looking to see what would make a nice backup revolver to a 9mm carry.

Whats it needs to be:
  1. Light
  2. Reliable
  3. and possibly just in 9mm as thats what the carry would be.

Thanks.
 
S&W model 642 Airweight .38spl +p

I picked up one that was barely used(looked like it still had a couple virgin cylinders) from the Cabela's gun library a few weeks ago for $350. I barely notice it on my person. Pair that up with some Crimson Trace laser grips model 105 or 405 and you got yourself a sweet little package for under your bottom line.
 
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Find a mod 36 or better yet a mod 60 " 2" Smith & Wesson. You'll be in that price range and have the light and reliable part covered. It won't be in 9mm but since you said possibly I assume you are accepting .38 Spcl.
IMG_1075[1].JPG
 
I prefer the 642 Centennials over the model 36 and 60 Chief's Special simply because of where the axis of bore is in relation to the hand. Just my personal pref

I also dig that the 642 is hammerless for carry purposes
 
Find a mod 36 or better yet a mod 60 " 2" Smith & Wesson. You'll be in that price range and have the light and reliable part covered. It won't be in 9mm but since you said possibly I assume you are accepting .38 Spcl.

Since it would be a backup 38 is ok, there is zero ammo around for that rounds as opposed to over 5K of 40sw and 9mm so if it was possible 9mm would be perfect but as a backup its something I am considering is a 38 or 357 and carry 38 in it :)
 
Since it would be a backup 38 is ok, there is zero ammo around for that rounds as opposed to over 5K of 40sw and 9mm so if it was possible 9mm would be perfect but as a backup its something I am considering is a 38 or 357 and carry 38 in it :)

Does he literally mean pocket carry or just small? I have seen some get used to it but only a couple VERY light pistol ever worked for me for that. Always felt like I had a rock in my pocket all day.
If he wants just small, light, and 9mm, and a wheel gun, Ruger LCR was cataloged in 9mm. As with all wheel guns in this caliber it's hard to find. I have always thought the round made perfect sense for this use as it beats the .38 by a lot and is so readily available. Seems never to catch on here though as it seems quite rare to actually see one for sale. Someone had one for sale here a little bit ago, Charter I think??? Looked real nice. If he really wants a 9mm, and wants easy to carry, maybe see if you can get him to rent and try some autos?? If he gets comfortable with an auto he would of course have a ton of great choices in his budget.
 
You can find a Colt Detective special for right around that price, but alas, no light!
I think a LCR would be the way to go if you need a light for sure.
 
For real pocket carry, a j-frame size revolver should have an internal hammer or shrouded hammer. We have a 642, but if I could get my wife to agree, I would immediately buy an LCR.

I'm not sure it need a to be the same caliber, though. So, things are so bad that you're transitioning to a backup gun, and then also thumbing in rounds from the 9mm that you dropped to have hands free for the revolver? Nope, ain't gonna happen. 38plusP should be just fine.

Not to mention that you'd have to be very careful with 9mm ammo choices to protect against bullets pulling out from recoil. 38 doesn't have that problem.
 
I think an airweight S&W is going to be hard to beat,they can be had for $400 new or used for less. In some cases used airweights look brand new,hard to beat a 14oz wheel gun. Hammer or no hammer is mostly preference I don't find the hammer on a 637 to impede the draw it is small enough not to get in the way,some prefer the 642 but I prefer a hammer,the Sa pulls on J-frame are actually pretty good,Da is heavy but smooth. S&W barrel quality is pretty good too, even on the snubs, if you do your part and practice they can be as accurate or more so than other guns in the same class(IE: pocket autos).
 
I think an airweight S&W is going to be hard to beat,they can be had for $400 new or used for less. In some cases used airweights look brand new,hard to beat a 14oz wheel gun. Hammer or no hammer is mostly preference I don't find the hammer on a 637 to impede the draw it is small enough not to get in the way,some prefer the 642 but I prefer a hammer,the Sa pulls on J-frame are actually pretty good,Da is heavy but smooth. S&W barrel quality is pretty good too, even on the snubs, if you do your part and practice they can be as accurate or more so than other guns in the same class(IE: pocket autos).
I have read that you shouldn't use SA on a DA gun, in self defense situations because usually the trigger pull poundage is much less in SA mode. This creates some type of liability, but not 100% of the details. Anyone care to elaborate if this is accurate or not?
 
I have read that you shouldn't use SA on a DA gun, in self defense situations because usually the trigger pull poundage is much less in SA. This creates some type of liability, but not 100% of the details. Anyone care to elaborate if this is accurate or not?
Unless you divulge what mode you shot in there is no way they could just know,a good shoot is a good shoot. Some people worry about this but I think it is being way too paranoid about it. That said I practice both,mostly da,but sa for further targets(20 yards or more).
 
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I have read that you shouldn't use SA on a DA gun, in self defense situations because usually the trigger pull poundage is much less in SA mode. This creates some type of liability, but not 100% of the details. Anyone care to elaborate if this is accurate or not?

Be a matter of practice. If you are going to rely on a Wheel gun for protection you should not be using S/A at the range if you need D/A to fight. Many will do all or most practice S/A since it's of course easier to be accurate. Problem is are you planing on D/A use when you "need the gun?" If so you of course need to know how to hit D/A too. Of course need to be familiar enough with the gun to not touch off a round accidentally if you have it in S/A. Really no different than autos that for D/A and S/A. Tell people with one the same thing. Need to practice a lot with the first round being D/A and a couple more S/A. Practice enough that it is natural.
 
Be a matter of practice. If you are going to rely on a Wheel gun for protection you should not be using S/A at the range if you need D/A to fight. Many will do all or most practice S/A since it's of course easier to be accurate. Problem is are you planing on D/A use when you "need the gun?" If so you of course need to know how to hit D/A too. Of course need to be familiar enough with the gun to not touch off a round accidentally if you have it in S/A. Really no different than autos that for D/A and S/A. Tell people with one the same thing. Need to practice a lot with the first round being D/A and a couple more S/A. Practice enough that it is natural.
Yep practice both,I think it is important to be proficient with Da and Sa,cause you never which one you might need more,because no situation is exactly the same.
 
Not light, but I'd vote Ruger SP101 in 9mm or 38/357.

Solid, not too expensive and reliable.

It seems like S&W has been covered here enough so there isn't a need to recommend anything that has already been recommended.
 

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