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You could have bought some steel tubing with the same ID/OD as the receiver and made a dedicated extended receiver - tap for the barrel, cut/file ejection port and bottom to match original receiver, buy replacement ejector and rivet in place, on the back of the receiver where it is notched for the bolt just leave the section below the bolt longer for an attachment point for the stock. The hard part being the dove tail for the rear sight

Great minds think alike... apparently we do too! I have a piece of steel pipe I bought for that very reason, it is my "fall back" plan if I can't make the traditional butt stock idea work.
 
I knew I saw a drawing somewhere...I just found the reference. Have you seen the book "The Ruger Pistol Exotic Weapons System" book by Paladin Press? They have a chapter "Detachable Metal Shoulder Stock Designs" and also a chapter "Machinist's Drawing and Templates" - they provide detailed measurements for a wire stock attached to the grip frame.

FYI - amazon.com has a copy of the book - for $400.00!!! (and, no...it's not me selling it!)
 
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I knew I saw a drawing somewhere...I just found the reference. Have you seen the book "The Ruger Pistol Exotic Weapons System" book by Paladin Press? They have a chapter "Detachable Metal Shoulder Stock Designs" and also a chapter "Machinist's Drawing and Templates" - they provide detailed measurements for a wire stock attached to the grip frame.

FYI - amazon.com has a copy of the book - for $400.00!!! (and, no...it's not me selling it!)

I have not seen that book, but there is no way I'm spending $400 on it!!! I'll google it and see what I can find. Thanks for the tip!
 
I had a few minutes to page through the book again. There's not too much they provide. Basically, their solution is to, more or less, attach a stub to the grip frame right under the bolt and attach the wire stock to it. They also offer an artist's rendition of a stock similar to the airsoft/pellet gun stocks that was discussed earlier.
 
Just got the barreled upper back from Clark Custom today! Installed it on the frame and mounted the scope (Leupold VX-II 4-12X40 A/O). Now I guess I have to get serious about building the stock and forend...

Suggestions welcome...
 
I suppose I would try to use either a wire stock of some sort or a skeletonized stock to maintain access to the take-down lever at the rear of the grip without having to remove the stock. You could either attach a fore-end to the barrel or the frame in front of the trigger guard if you wanted to maintain a free-floating barrel. I would probably try to attach some sort of adapter to the front of the frame to keep the barrel free-floating.

Do you plan on keeping this as a rifle, or switching back and forth?
 
My dad had an old (60's era) copy of "American Rifleman", in it there were plans on how to convert a High-Standard .22 pistol into a rifle. These plans called for a simple wire butt stock to be mounted to the barrel, this prevented any NFA issues as the stock would only fit onto the barrel designed for it.
 
I want to keep it in a rifle configuration, but I do like the idea of being able to have it a take down design as well. I've kinda ruled out the "wire stock" idea as I think they are kinda ugly. I'm thinking more along the lines of an Anschutz syle stock with an open area at the top near the grip as to be able to access the charging handle (bolt) and slide release & safety. The attachment point for the stock would have to be at the lower area of the frame. I'm still kicking around several design ideas.
 
I finally had a nice weather day with all my household chores done so I was able to start working on the buttstock for this conversion project. I began by planing down a pretty nice hunk of walnut to a workable thickness for the buttstock. I then carefully used the table saw to cut out the groove for the grip frame. Then I layed out some refrence marks on where I wanted to be on the shaping of the buttstock and started with my block plane. Several hours and piles of shavings later I am starting to see what looks like the back half of a rifle with some pretty nice grain showing through. Losts more shaping and sanding to go....
 
I have started pokeing around to do this to a Buckmark, do you have photos of this still?
Regrettably I don't have any pictures left of this project. It turned out very nice. Someone offered me lots of money for it so now it is gone....

If you are tinkering around with the Buckmark for an idea like this, why not just buy a Buckmark rifle and save the headache...?
 
Regrettably I don't have any pictures left of this project. It turned out very nice. Someone offered me lots of money for it so now it is gone....

If you are tinkering around with the Buckmark for an idea like this, why not just buy a Buckmark rifle and save the headache...?
I own a Buckmark and really like the pistol but also like the idea of something like a Flux brace option for it. I haven't invested anything other than some research on line when I found this post so I thought I would ask.
 
I own a Buckmark and really like the pistol but also like the idea of something like a Flux brace option for it. I haven't invested anything other than some research on line when I found this post so I thought I would ask.
Flux brace clears the frame but not wood grips. If you had aftermarket grips that you could grind down if needed or flat grips it would probably work. You would have to figure out some way to keep the brace on there though. Also flux brace are extremely hard to find now because they have been out of production for so long.

Here it is with brace not on all the way because wood grips are too wide.

9F733C24-B1D9-41F7-9AF9-D9B39B1791FE.jpeg
You can find these recover tactical braces extremely cheap, ala $60ish, and if you cut it at the green line it would likely work but again you will have to figure out how to secure it to the gun. That front part of it would have to be cut off. This pic is of it just sitting in the brace and brace will not go on all the way due to that front part. You would also have to take a dremel to the part of the brace that touches the stock/receiver to make it fit snugly but that should take less than 5 min to do.

5E54FEE5-F217-4C14-8B48-A4BF7EC0A503.jpeg
 
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Flux brace clears the frame but not wood grips. If you had aftermarket grips that you could grind down if needed or flat grips it would probably work. You would have to figure out some way to keep the brace on there though. Also flux brace are extremely hard to find now because they have been out of production for so long.

Here it is with brace not on all the way because wood grips are too wide.

View attachment 1274611
You can find these recover tactical braces extremely cheap, ala $60ish, and if you cut it at the green line it would likely work but again you will have to figure out how to secure it to the gun. That front part of it would have to be cut off. This pic is of it just sitting in the brace and brace will not go on all the way due to that front part. You would also have to take a dremel to the part of the brace that touches the stock/receiver to make it fit snugly but that should take less than 5 min to do.

View attachment 1274612
The opposite side has the slide release which would get in the way also. I have n oversized pic rail on the top of mine and have seen things that fit to a top rail online like this.
1662907575710.png
 

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